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Very good to hear! Yes, 42 years is indeed a bit old for any brake system rubber part LOL

No need the change the brake hard lines at all, except to plumb in any new parts. The diameters are the same. You SHOULD for sure replace all 3 rubber lines when the get beyond 15-20 years old. The inner rubber liner breaks down where you can't see it and will eventually jam inside, either...

Yes, that year and model of MC should have the residual valve in the rear port. We bought one about 1 year ago that had it. If you look into the port on the MC that feeds the rear system (which will be the front port on the MC itself), you should see a shiny, cone shaped disc with a small hole...

If the seal fails between the front and rear chambers of the MC, that will give you the symptoms that you described. Moving the MC piston as far as you did when bleeding the system may have caused that seal to fail. However, that does not explain why the rears lock up. As others said, it sounds...

Ah, there ya go LOL. Yes, that is the way it is with old braking systems. Sounds like you are getting there. BTW, if you have not replaced the rubber lines, do so ASAP. Did you replace the rear wheel cylinders? Do so; they are cheap. Being where you are at with the dryness, the hard lines may...

Having had several /6 Darts back in the day (and not sparing any of the few HP they had!), the standard front discs do quite well, so you will be fine. They have decent heat capacity for repeated stops, etc. I'd put any limited budget into reworking the whole brake, suspension, and steering...

Poorer braking in reverse is totally normal with the rear drum brakes. The drum brake design (developed by Bendix originally) has what is called a 'servo action' whereby the drag of the primary shoe on the drum when activated adds force to the secondary shoe, increasing braking torque. This...

If you don't have 'wrench actuator' problems from time to time, it means you aren't doing anything LOL. Good to hear it is resolved.

I have the same question as Bill: what does the 'bound up' description mean in more detail? BTW Bill, as a point of interest, some of the 70's PB MC's had a larger bore than the manual; seems backwards, I know.

The proportioning in the drum/drum systems was set by the ratio of the front to rear wheel cylinder diameters, plus the relative widths of the shoes front to rear.

They normally get installed as you describe, after the switch, and for the reasons you state. There is nothing mandatory in running the d-block and switch however; bazillions of cars were built and driven without any such switch. It is just an warning indicator that one half of the system has a...

The pedal going down some more when you start the car while holding the pedal down with a power brake booster is normal; it is always going to do that some. (And BTW, that is a good test to tell you that the booster is working.) As for the air, if the pedal is too low, then it certainly could...

The residual pressure is to just keep the springs in the drum shoe system from pulling the shoes back excessively from the drums. It has nothing to do with expanding the seals behind the cups. BTW, a 10lb residual valve is high and is normally used in certain race applications. 2 lbs is more...

I doubt anyone here is using their brakes hard and hot enough to be able to feel/detect any sponginess due to fluid compressibility. Now, NASCAR at Martinsville would be a severe test of anything in the brake system; it might show up very readily there.

The unit pictured by Pista integrates a prop valve in the rear line path; the black thing on the lower right end of the pictured unit is the cap on the rear prop valve. The top plastic covered thing is an electrical connection for a fail switch, that activates if either front or rear systems...

There is no need to plug the rear line ports on the distribution block if you bypass it completely with the rear line. The rear half of the distribution block is totally separated from the front half.

Seriously.... you can cut the rod retainer ring from the correct sized piece of vacuum line. It is just unreinforced, soft rubber, and has no sealing function. The shape of the machined groove on the end of the rod is what makes a squared end o-ring work for retention.

I have used the Inline Tubes kit for a drum-drum setup. No issues. The block pictured by magnummopar is the distribution block supplied and is connected as described from a dual MC. BTW, the front line from the MC goes to the rear brakes on the car, and the rear line on the MC goes to the...

Work for some extra clearance. If you go around a corner, and the springs lean, then you'll need extra clearance. For line clearance, can you just lengthen the lines and route them back, under the frame, and the forward to the calipers..?? And relocate the tabs on the axle to put the lines lower.

You don't need the inline type prop valve if you are putting in an adjustable rear prop valve. You only need a distribution block (2-way splitter) up front; that is what I would do to simplify things. Based on some reported experience of others here, with the 10" rear drums, you may not need...

I am not agreeing with the above post...... I would expect the front shoe upper end to move off of the pivot point when the parking brake is applied with no drum in place. The p-brake bar is pushing solely on the front shoe, and needs the drum to keep the shoe aligned and to move it around in...

Buy some new spring sets and adjuster cables and replace both sides. The passenger side is adjusting more probably because it moves more easily than the driver's side, due to a weak spring. This is a common cause for drum brakes on opposite sides to apply unevenly.

If you are going to use the drum/drum MC, then you need to remove the residual valve in the front brake line port out of the MC. Also, be aware that the drum-drum MC has a much smaller front reservoir fluid capacity than the ones made for the 73-76 disc/drum setups or for the Kelsey-Hayes disc...

Hmmmm.... I really have to suspect that things are not all kosher up front. Everything clean? Front bleeders at the top of the calipers? Maybe do the 'gusher' test that some here have described so well..... take the cover off of the MC, press the pedal really hard and then let up slowly and...

That would reduce your rear brake torque by about 15%. 13/16" would reduce the rear brake torque by over 30%.

I used to get my Opel 9" rear drum shoes relined with heavy duty material from this shop in Ft Wayne. They would sell me so-called 'police car' lining material. It was not semi-metallic, but I used this in rallying and it held up well and seemed to have a bit higher Coefficient of Friction than...

First, make sure the fronts are properly bled and all air is out. Then, 2 paths: 1. Go down in size by 1/16" to 1/8" (assuming you have 10" brakes originally). Tat would probably put you at 7/8" or 13/16". Rear brakes lockup 2. Add an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line

Using round-jawed small vice-grips to clamp down on those fittings sometimes gives the grip and leverage to get them started to turn.

Glad your brakes work well now. Just don't push those 205's too hard...

Hey OP sorry you have not had any replies. I've never checked on lighter weight stuff so can't help.