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I bought a bumper for the rear of the '76 Duster, but no mounting core........ The old core must have gone to the boneyard. Any suggestions? And, I'm ready to mount the front bumper, but the previous Bozo hacked off the rear of the left-front bracket so I have only ONE bolt hole for the...

I was wondering if they had anything like that.........hadn't seen any around here........I can whittle if I have to. Right now it's "wired" in....filed a couple notches to hold the wire in line, and went around the whole frame and bucket.......works for now, but it's a cob job........

I just popped the headlight pan retainer nut on the drivers side outer edge........It's not like the Dusters in the 67 Cuda.......It's more rectangular, and from the looks of it, it also spaces the pan out a bit from the inner nose frame. Does ANYONE know if something like this is available...

If you use an abrasive "stroke" on a single stage metallic, depending on the grit, you streak the aluminum particles. Whether wet sanding, OR with a circular buffer, you can and probably will "streak" the aluminum. However, on old metallic finishes, when used with mild compounds (AFTER...

As long as it's prepped properly Adam, it works fine......acts as a good grain sealer too, far better than other primers, and I like it better than clear sealers when I do a color coat on a guitar body.

Good prep-solvent for the final wipe is nearly 60 bucks a gallon now.....!!!!!!!!!! But it's worth it. If adhesion is the problem, 2K epoxy primer (like the guys have said) and a final wipe with a good prep-solvent will be the ticket to peace of mind.

Anyone know if the 67 and 68 front parking lamp LENSES are interchangeable? HmmmmmmmmmmmmmmMMMMMMMMMM ?????

Not sure what I'm seeing in the photo........ Chips? Scratches? Scuffs? If it's scratched up and just looks a bit crappy, you can refresh the look fairly easily with a "back yard" job instead of having to hire it out or do it with spray equipment.......... Do you have equipment, or are you...

Good grief..........That's a large metalflake !!! Egad................... I was talking about a fine metallic......Fine looks like a pearl in many respects.......... If you did black with pearl, I would use a factory mix of "black pearl" base..........if you try a pearl over a black base...

You can get that effect by shooting a black (or dark charcoal) metallic base with a red candy overlay, then clearcoat......... Shooting candy over a dark base is not as demanding as over a normal base such as silver or gold..being a much darker foundation, it's also much more forgiving as to...

Pearl over black is a real conundrum ........ The pearl particle needs to be a lighter hue than you intend to see after it's sprayed over the black.......Those particles are not what I'd call 'opaque'....they are actually somewhat translucent, at least in my experience. The base will alter...

This scheme ain't fer' everybody...............(came with the basic paint, so I worked with it).

They need to be cleaned and prepped with 0000 steel wool......Then paint with an enamel based spray.

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Listen.....if parking it in the sun doesn't shrink the worst of the bubbles, then the best way to remove them is to aerate them properly....... I've installed vinyl since the 70's when we did snow machines......Too much soap and it's gonna be a long haul usually......Water with about 1/3...

This one looks like a standard "Hemi" scoop........

Plenty and tons to spare. If you use old school guns, it's plenty....should be plenty of CFM for the gun. (look at the specs for CFM rating.....it depends on the rpm of the motor, size of the piston, etc.......but it sounds OK....I've used less). If you use new HVLP guns, it's WAY plenty.

Need more info........that was unlike anything I've researched thus far. :read2::read2:

That is some of the GREATEST custom fabrication I have seen in a LONG time...........Ingenious, clean and Smooooooooooooth.

It's gonna look good to a LOT more people than just you...... Don't sell yourself short. I think it's a great choice........Can't wait to see it develop. :colors:

High spots, in your situation, would only be known if you were actually block sanding the car to begin with.........by that I mean flat blocks or boards that would first expose high spots. At this point, the guys make good points here.....You should remove the paint (by whatever means you...

Just purchased a set of new repro tail panel moldings from Klassicparts on Ebay.......A little pricey, but not much you can do.....wanna play you gotta pay I guess. The QUALITY of the part itself is outstanding, as I told the vendor. Beautiful finish, properly striped, and the aluminum is...

Gotta be split like 60/40 from the well me tinks'......... Forward just a bit from the door....... Never pictured these before.......Can't wait to see 'em. :smile:

.........AND, you have to have some exoerience in keeping that sander FLAT to the surface.......You can actually come up with discernible "rippling" in the clear that'll show up after the buff......That'll ruin any good paint job......As Adam said, it's NOT for a beginner or novice. New guys...

I have to say that's a handy bit of fabricatiin' there.........Great thinkin'........ It's gonna be great to see this develop.......8)

You got me thinkin' too on that one.......I have to strip the anodizing off that trim anyway in order to buff them out, SO, maybe I'll let ya' know what it looks like...........I think I'll run some red pinstriping tape around it first to get a feel for it though...........8)

Here's a couple of shots (one with flash, one without) of a new tail panel treatment I toyed with this afternoon on the 67 Cuda.......I got REALLY tired of seein' that ol' argent color on the panel......it was just plain boring. Different light lends varying color changes.......A deep red...

That's lookin' nice......... I usually remove anodizing with oven cleaner.....works great.....after it's dry, steel wool (000) finishes it up.........kinda messy, but it does a good job. BUT, it won't help the little dings and deeper scratches......for that, wet sanding or fine dry sanding...

Mig is your best bet, and most cost effective.......Like the guys warned, do NOT trust that "flux" core wire welding will do a good enough job......USE GAS ........buy the welder (if you need one) that is all ready to add a tank to, and have fun.....and the 110 Volt models work great for our...

Me thinks trim nut is the new politically correct term........speed nut is what they've been called since the dawn of the trim era by those who use 'em.........BUT, they're listed differently at various sites because they're known by different names. They're handy dandy's fer' sure by whatever...