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16:1 is like 3.75 lock to lock? 12:1 would be like a 2.8? That would be like go cart steering....maybe a little sketchy on the interstate.

Cast cranks weight more than forged. forged can be made lighter to the same strength level as a cast in the same application. Someone weight a cast 360 crank to a forged 318 (probably when the table was written) but so many things can make an LA lighter: AL intake and or heads (huge), mini...

I agree. The rest of the car probably is legit roadster, ie. sans most safety equipment. Its likely safe just because its sold by a reputable seller. If it were not, it would be a legal nightmare.

and its fiberglass leaf front end with open tires, headers and no wipers, blinkers or seat belts pass safety? Pshh....

$650! Whoa.....

Found on the web

use a non petroleum grease, aka astro-glide, KY or PST. Bring the jokes......poly just doesn't deform like rubber does under extreme loads nor does it absorb oils or ozone breakdown.

My ITR was a different style with the flats on the large round portion, not a nut behind it. Plenty of meat to clamp onto with a pipe wrench. I was wondering what those smaller feet fit and now I know. Why they dont make the flats like a hex is probably a .50 cost issue as that woul dallow you...

pipe wrench did it, no drama. I can see where this tool would be necessary but this one was easy, exposed. Taking off the passenger one opposite the valve was super easy: crank the wheel to the right (front rack) and the end will literally come you you. Tap off the bend in the lock washer and...

Are these weird crows foot type insert tools required to pull the inner tie rod or can you grab it with a pipe wrench? I see a few more designs but I'm not sure I even need this on an SC400 as the rack is in front of the K, on the bottom. Looks like good access from internet pic.

Do they have ford like valves for left and right steering or is it an integrated box? Maybe a stuck valve issue

telescoping rod, maybe the pin came out? The 2 metal shafts should be 1 unit locked with the shear pin. did yours get separated?

Awesome....no swedge!

Is that our studs? So .480 knurl is spec? 7/16 is .4375 so maybe .480 is correct? If we pound out the studs are we gonna F up the knurl. Ie. swedged studs?

Nope.

I thought a shoebox Chevy was a 62-67 Chevy 2? The "tri-fives" ( I loath that name too) were called this in 55-57 sales brochures buy I never heard an owner call his '56 a "tri-five". Shoebox was also reffered to early 50 Fords. Whatever, this ain't Mopar so I'll drop it.

I think if your doing this at home, it would be ideal to do it with some beater rims on it, jacked up on stands under the LCA's. This would allow you to dial in the camber/caster/toe without fighting the tire scrub? Would make alignment a breeze as you would have a straight reference across the...

I looked into a rear rack and pinion adaptation from a Geo or cloud car (Cirrus, Stratus, Breeze) but you will have to mount it where the center link is now. Make brackets to mount to anything close and then you got a very strange steering shaft angle at the firewall as it will almost have to...

The inner fenderwells are under tension. When I cut the last spot weld the thing went BANG and popped 1/4 inch off the rail. Not sure if that is from the placement of the jack stands or what but it was a loud surprise.

@Lee Robinson This man breaks cars for fun (Living?) and can probably tell you first hand what it takes to replace than member. These cars dont have any sheet metal thicker than frame rails and they are pretty thin themselves, the strength is in the forming of the channels. If you can remove...

I think that white disk keeps the hot air from riding up the column and heating your steering wheel.

I dint think a lower bearing is required as it rides on the steering box input shaft. You wouldnt usually put 3 bearings on a shaft, especially if the steering box coupler is not 100% centered all the time. My 65 doesnt have a lower bearing IIRC.

STROKED B and B body headers. Send it. Exhaust And especially this one B-Body Headers In An A-Body

How's the turning radius with the rack and pinion? That's the only downside I've heard but it should be an easy fix? I'd run a tubular K only if anyone offered it. Cleaner looking, pan clearance and has to be lighter and better welds.

Look at a factory K and youll see most of the welds are crappy birdshit flux core looking welds and you'll realize why guys gussett them with welded in 90's. I think youll be yards ahead with a straight K that has not been compromised in a wreck.

Get that free k shipped they don't weigh as much as you think and it's straight already. You could ask but I bet the K won't ever be the same after it's straightened with all its crappy from the line welds and all.

I'm glad I'm not the only person to notice these! I thought maybe they were oil pads for the shoes that slipped into the coupler but if they made it into injectors, that theory is all wet. Maybe a cheap desiccant?

you got a rounded seal or the very early rectangle one that I never see. Rebuild kits should be the same for power or manual: 2 shoes, seal, maybe a spring washers or clip, sometimes 2 cardboard squares that no one seems to know what are for.

Your gonna need it...Yuck!

yeah this modern transverse mounted crap is a ***** when all the pulleys are behind the tire! 2007 almost had to pull the engine to get to the water pump.