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Thanks. It has been sitting all winter, so the first start should be a good test for it.

I finished wiring the momentary switch for the fuel pump. It was a challenge getting the switch into the existing hole under the dash because the main wiring loom to the fuse panel was right above the hole.

Here is the result. I actually had two problems to deal with, the fuel evaporation and a badly kinked fuel line. I think it either happened when the car was chained to a trailer, or when I tried to bend the pinch weld back into position. Before you tell me the pump should be mounted closer to...

Thanks guys. Should be working on it tomorrow.

OK I picked up a heavy duty momentary switch on the way home, good for up to 25 amps. The good news is it will fit perfectly in the vacant hole for the parking brake warning light under the dash. The new plan, since it will only be used for priming when the button is pressed, is to wire it...

According to someone who has been using this same pump for over two years, it has not been an issue.

Sorry, I should have mentioned that it was always my plan to use an ignition on power source.

Yes, it was your original post that I was using as a reference, but the Airtex pump was not available. I found the same pump made by Carter which was available at Summit Racing.

Yes, mine will be mounted between the tank and the mechanical pump. Here is a picture. I am still waiting on delivery from Summit

This is a Carter P60430 pump. The only specs I have been able to find reference "low amp draw" The Carter race pump I used to have says it draws 5-7 amps, so I assume it would be something less than that. I will use an inline fuse, and probably just stick to a momentary switch. The ones I...

Thanks, I ran a relay to the Carter pump on the old race car. I also ran a momentary switch and an oil pressure shut off since it ran all the time. This one is a low pressure pump that doesn't draw much power, so I was thinking of just running it direct to the switch?

I purchased an inline electric fuel pump for the sole purpose of priming the carb when the car has been sitting for a week or two and all of the fuel has evaporated. I was thinking I just needed a momentary switch with two connectors to complete the circuit. As I usually do, I have been...

I have had two of those and both failed on me.

Can you make something that slips into a stock case? Otherwise could we send ours as a core for a retrofit? I've got the one I took out I could send down for a test fit.

I personally have had two of the new electronic voltage regulators in vintage housings (left one) fail and peg the alternator. I managed to pick a NOS unit at Carlisle (right one) which fixed the issue, but it won't last forever. I would be interested in a new unit if it could be installed in...

I did have an issue with my car overcharging on the way to Carlisle, after an hour or so on the highway. It had a brand new solid state voltage regulator. I changed it out for an original unit I found there and it was fine on the trip back. Could the choke connection have caused that?

I used the 12v side of the ballast resistor for mine. It works fine. It was easy to see which side was which with a simple test light.

Your inbox is full. If you make room I will send you a PM

I bought one to use on my car, but I sold the car before I ever got to try it. You can pull out up to 15 degrees.

Likewise on the glove box light for me. Didn't discover it until my wife and I were driving home one night and she noticed a line of light across her knees. Disconnected it and problem solved. I had the same issue on my old cuda once and it was the trunk light.

Had one die on my 71 Demon when it was only a few years old, 50 miles from home. We found a sweet spot for the key between start and run and taped it in that position to make it home.

I had this happen with the points type regulator. I changed it out for a solid state unit and it solved the problem.

Here is the issue with the big block. I shortened the larger lug and didn't use an adapter.

For adjusting the clock.

I was having several intermittent electrical issues with my car which had a stock points type voltage regulator. I just replaced it on the weekend with a new solid state regulator, that looks just like the original. Suddenly most of my intermittent problems disappeared. That is the first...

Got the firecore rotor in the mail today and it fits great, so now I can use the male terminal cap and my MSD wires.

I just checked out the Firecore site and they sell a black cap that looks identical. They also sell a male tower V8 rotor. I will have to order one and try it.

Yep, tip of rotor hits the contacts. I could file it. Going to try and measure the depth of the cap to make sure it is close to the same. Maybe buy a new rotor to experiment with. I have a new set of MSD wires that I thought I could use if I got this cap to work. The only markings on it are...

Another shot

Here is an inside picture