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Sounds like just change seals,add axles and roll,very unlikely hard parts and SG suffered any damage being still in car...now if it had tires on it at the time and they burned up then that would constitute finding another one....

Damn aint you all heard of a turboflite? Lol........

stuff you need contact Dr. Diff on here...

Tune the engine to optimal,better convertor,more tire,if you must do a gear change go with the 3.73/3.91's...aint nothing wrong with those 3.23's lots of people running them,build more torque into the engine and a really good convertor like [Frank Lupo] Dynamic...that alone would be the best...

I would also recommend running the dust cover.it's there for a specific purpose as stated above,and on the bolt heads,I have ground many down and also have gotten thinner[headed] ones...always use locktite on the bolt threads...does make quite a racket with thick bolts and sounds like the whole...

What your reasoning for changing If I may inquire,you would need to get a longer driveshaft,and yoke,think everything else is a wash pretty much,the 727 is tougher better trans in my opinion,is this an everyday driver or something else?

If in facto is true,means you have a quality sought after set-up,which is GOOD....

Never liked or could get used to reverse style shifting...

1st determine what rearend you have,prob a 9 1/4,then find a sure grip or limited slip for it's application,using the term posi[chevyterm] will get you some ribbing...it's possible you could have a dana rear,how many lugs does your wheels have?if 8 lug then you have a dana or a spicer type...

Yes I forgot to mention redrilling the drums,which really isnt a big deal...I would say his most economical route without changing the rear end is redrilling of the axles and drums,nothing else changes or finding a set of axles already done....and redrill drums

I havent seen any b-body axles those yrs that were not tapered,so more than likely yours are tapered and will not support being resplined,you could possibly find some c-body bbp axles and do that[you would want to get the brakes and backing plates as well to make it work] but in all reality you...

Clean them up and polish off the edges,run them,I have ran them in worse condition and know others that have ran them even missing a tooth and guess what? no issues,where yours is damaged has no effect on actual meshing of gears,just chk for cracks or other damage 1st,and person who sold them to...

Definite on converter,hopefully you have at least 3.55 gears to make it all work decent,maybe even 3.73 or 3.91's....

Well I came out of this refreshed knowing RRR didnt tell me to ...go eat a frickin turd...would'nt go well with this eggnog...lmao...yee haw...now that was some funny sheit man I dont care who ya are

Oh my..decisions decisions..wonder how much friction those red cones can withstand? lol

Well RRR,you are one of the fellers that makes this site in my book for many reasons...right or wrong you still plug away doing what seems right to you and posting what works for you...dont feel beat up by the tech of the re-build you posted or the whys of how it works or not,maybe it shouldnt...

They could be 2.76 or 2.91's or maybe he meant 3.73's,regardless $400 for the whole rear is a deal and a bolt in big advantage for you and its MOPAR...buy it put it in and if you dont like the gears you can always change them out,should be a tag on 3rd member identifying the ratio[may be missing...

So...what was the point in asking for opinions and excluding d-60's and then choosing one of same style in the end? I dont get it bigdan.....

Backbraced 8 3/4,good axles,if you think you need more then get one of the nodular iron cases..to me the pros of the 8 3/4 is the best choice for all Mopars,you can change out gears by yourself in 30 mins,I know a guy with a 69 rr going into the hi 8's on spray never broke a housing or...

transgo for me...

Running 9.5 dynamics bblk dart..cant beat them...worth the money..

The sure grip will interchange in all 3 cases,the gears themselves are by case only,be very careful running those adapters I have shredded a couple sets in the past,put the a-body rear in and redrill the axles to big bolt pattern and you will have an axle with 2 patterns,there is a fella on here...

4.30's 8 3/4 detroit locker 742 case..29.5x15.5 MT SP pro's..looking to find some 3.73-3.91's in 742-489 case...just need the gears would trade mine less than 200 miles like new[richmond] gonna tag it and cruise some..actually those gears with those tires aint bad at all to cruise now but I...

Much needed how to and good demostration of how simple it really is and I salute you for doing this,gives new life to the battered 'cone style' which I always felt was more aggressive..You did a DAMN GOOD JOB ROB...KEN

Nope I aint insulted but using the word 'shadetree' might not be advisable, and if you go back and read my posts I explained how I done it using the ends that were cut-off and having them turned down inside to 3'' so they would go back on the same tubes they were cut-off of thus avoiding 'butt...

Shadetree?Really? Cant you read? no,we are glueing them on with jb weld and having budda bless them...lmfao

Well...everyone has their way right or wrong some work some dont,guess I got lucky,nice and straight no weird angles or bearing wear,yes it took a couple try's and a couple warped housings but hey I got it,heat is not your friend when your are cutting or welding on a housing,go slow on the...

Super...gooood stuff man...and with pics...simple and easy..you are the man RRR...about time somebody showed how its done....when doubters become believers

Just to clarify I did not say you shouldnt use a jig,you should if possible ,just relating my experience with mine and it turned out good,it can be done on the cheap if you're determined and have the materials and the skills,I also built my own backbrace and all in my garage,would I do it...

All above info good...when I did my rear end shortening I used a trk housing,cut off the ends at the weld joint with a 14'' cut-off saw with metal blade like muffler shops use,I did this by removing all the 3rd member studs[and axle end studs] and laying it face down on some short 2x12's to...