Do I need a torque convertor?

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adamfeber

adamfeber

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Title should be: "Do I need a STALL torque convertor?" - I do not see anywhere to update the thread title.

Here is my setup:

- 340 with 9:1 compression
- Lunati Bracket Master cam - 292/292 duration and .480/.480 lift. (RPM Range 2000-5500)
- Vintage Edelbrock TM-5 Tarantula Intake (got it at a swamp meet a while back, plan to upgrade to air-gap soon)
- Edelbrock 600 cfm Carb
- Mopar Performance Distributor, MSD 6al box
- Unknown headers
- 727, shift kit, stock convertor

This is a project that was started 10 years ago and then put aside (life got in the way) - the car has never been on the road. I am just picking back up and committed to getting it on the road.

Prior to abandoning the project years ago, I could not get it to smoothly go into gear without the car just bogging down and wanting to die. I was told it needed a stall convertor so I purchased a B&M Holeshot 3000 stall Torque Converter (Part # 10425) but then stopped the project before installing it.

I was following another thread with a similar issue and it appears that this is usually caused by one of three things - needs stall convertor, carb issues (not my case), or vacuum leak (possible).

So I guess my main questions are:

- Looking at my engine setup (above), should I need a stall convertor or should I consider other causes before pulling the transmission.

- If I do need a stall convertor, is the torque convertor I already have a good fit for my configuration: B&M Holeshot 3000 stall (Part # 10425).

Any help is greatly appreciated. Really excited to pick this project back up and get it on the road - 10+ years later.
 
I think that cam could really use that convertor. what gear are you running?
 
No need to open the rear. just count driveshaft revolutions to one wheel
revolution. Should get you real close.
 
Definite on converter,hopefully you have at least 3.55 gears to make it all work decent,maybe even 3.73 or 3.91's....
 
Yes, you absolutely need a high stall converter with that cam. Will never idle good in gear without it. Plus with the stock converter it'd most likely be a pig on performance. That's a pretty fair size cam and with a single plane intake it won't even come alive until at least 3000 rpm. The air-gap will be a real good upgrade. Will most likely make more power all the way through the rpm range
 
adamfeber said:
Title should be: "Do I need a STALL torque convertor?" - I do not see anywhere to update the thread title.

Here is my setup:

- 340 with 9:1 compression
- Lunati Bracket Master cam - 292/292 duration and .480/.480 lift. (RPM Range 2000-5500)
- Vintage Edelbrock TM-5 Tarantula Intake (got it at a swamp meet a while back, plan to upgrade to air-gap soon)
- Edelbrock 600 cfm Carb
- Mopar Performance Distributor, MSD 6al box
- Unknown headers
- 727, shift kit, stock convertor

This is a project that was started 10 years ago and then put aside (life got in the way) - the car has never been on the road. I am just picking back up and committed to getting it on the road.

Prior to abandoning the project years ago, I could not get it to smoothly go into gear without the car just bogging down and wanting to die. I was told it needed a stall convertor so I purchased a B&M Holeshot 3000 stall Torque Converter (Part # 10425) but then stopped the project before installing it.

I was following another thread with a similar issue and it appears that this is usually caused by one of three things - needs stall convertor, carb issues (not my case), or vacuum leak (possible).

So I guess my main questions are:

- Looking at my engine setup (above), should I need a stall convertor or should I consider other causes before pulling the transmission.

- If I do need a stall convertor, is the torque convertor I already have a good fit for my configuration: B&M Holeshot 3000 stall (Part # 10425).

Any help is greatly appreciated. Really excited to pick this project back up and get it on the road - 10+ years later.
Click to expand...

I don't know if you've checked with Lunati about what stall they would recommend for your setup, but it might be an idea. I think the 3000 stall is about right. I wouldn't go any higher in stall though if the main use is for the street.
 
Thank you everyone for the help so far.

No need to open the rear. just count driveshaft revolutions to one wheel
revolution. Should get you real close.
Click to expand...

Awesome - I will check it out this weekend. I am hoping it is at least 3.55 or else I will be adding that to the project list.

That's a pretty fair size cam and with a single plane intake it won't even come alive until at least 3000 rpm. The air-gap will be a real good upgrade.
Click to expand...

My thoughts as well - I plan to do this as soon as possible.

I don't know if you've checked with Lunati about what stall they would recommend for your setup
Click to expand...

I talked to Lunati this morning and they recommend a 2400-2600 stall since the power band for this cam is 2000-5500 RPM and they suggest about 500 RPM above the start of the power band.

- Does anyone know what the stock stall speed is on 1973 dart sport 340 with 727?

- Sounds like some stall is needed. I feel that the 3000 is a little bigger than I need but since I already have it, I may put it in for now to test and tune. The ultimate goal will be to get a dynamic or another custom made one for my exact application, once I get all the bugs worked out and the car setup more complete.

DOES anyone know if there is a how-to thread about swapping the torque converter? I am going to try to do this next weekend and will need torque specs and any other info. Can this easily be done in a day in my driveway?
 
I called dynamic and Sean (great guy) recommended a 9.5 inch 3500 stall - very different than Lunatis recommendation. I think I would trust dynamic over Lunati. I will most likley put in the Holeshot 3000 I have now (stall sounds about right) to be able to drive it but ultimately have Dynamic make me one once I get my configuration (tires, gears, engine) setup all put together.

If anyone can help provide some assistance in the comment below, it would be greatly appreciated. Adam

DOES anyone know if there is a how-to thread about swapping the torque converter? I am going to try to do this next weekend and will need torque specs and any other info. Can this easily be done in a day in my driveway?
Click to expand...
 
How many 'what stall do I need threads' do we need? I've posted on the subject several times. Hell google it. Skype it. Netscape it. All the info you will ever need has been asked before. Don't go cheap on the converter.
 
adamfeber said:
I called dynamic and Sean (great guy) recommended a 9.5 inch 3500 stall - very different than Lunatis recommendation. I think I would trust dynamic over Lunati. I will most likley put in the Holeshot 3000 I have now (stall sounds about right) to be able to drive it but ultimately have Dynamic make me one once I get my configuration (tires, gears, engine) setup all put together.

If anyone can help provide some assistance in the comment below, it would be greatly appreciated. Adam
Click to expand...

sean did the converter for my dart. i like to **** when he recommended such a high stall. he assured me it would be perfect.. well he way right. that car drove like a car with a stock converter on the street and felt like it was getting shot out of a cannon launching at the track..

make sure you have the gear to match that cam and converter too.. i'll bet it will want a 3.91 or so gear.

a 600 carb sounds too small for that too..
 
adamfeber said:
If anyone can help provide some assistance in the comment below, it would be greatly appreciated. Adam
Click to expand...



the basic idea.. fast forward tot he 3:15 mark.. :)

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFFIPyv2C_4"]How to install Torque Converter and Automatic Transmission - YouTube[/ame]
 
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