chipped tooth

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Damn, I just ordered bearings + stuff for it:banghead:
I bought a 3rd member from a member here, been a year or 2 ago, and don`t have his info, but YOU know who you are.
Boy I got hosed:wack:
 
mopar head said:
Damn, I just ordered bearings + stuff for it:banghead:
I bought a 3rd member from a member here, been a year or 2 ago, and don`t have his info, but YOU know who you are.
Boy I got hosed:wack:
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That damage would have been difficult if not impossible to see if it was in the housing.
 
How do the rest of the teeth look, as in the surfaces. I'm not so sure I wouldn't clean up those rough edges and run it myself as long as there are no obvious cracks.. I've been known to do sillier things. :-D


What's the worst that can happen, it breaks and you have to replace it then?
 
reuse the gear ,but take a small die grinder and smooth the rough edges. the gears are not touching each other in that area I have reused them in eaton/Rockwell differentials with small chips .(but inspect for cracks first)
 
Maybe. What caused this? If you did this with tooling, IE removing installing bearings, or did you do this running in the car?

If this is running damage, it's done. Been stressed, might be cracked.

If you did it with tooling, evaluate (explain) how you did it. Might be able to grind the damage out, round off the edges.

Not be. New ring/ pinion. Ever see a car totalled because a rear broke and locked up?
 
If there"s no contact in that area how did it chip in the first place , do you really want to take it all apart again when it gets worse ? how much are you saving now over the cost of redoing it a second time when it goes sideways on you ? remember stuff seldom breaks in the driveway but get a hundred miles from home and ......
 
I would dress the sharp edges and run the piss out of it. I had a 4.56 in an 8 3/4 years ago in a Dart that had one WHOLE tooth GONE from the ring gear and it never skipped a beat. Not once. In fact, it's in a ramcharger still runnin right now.

...and before all yall start hatin, remember, not everybody always has the money to buy new stuff.
 
Clean them up and polish off the edges,run them,I have ran them in worse condition and know others that have ran them even missing a tooth and guess what? no issues,where yours is damaged has no effect on actual meshing of gears,just chk for cracks or other damage 1st,and person who sold them to you probably never saw it or had an issue with it...I have done this before in a pinch and just a race car so it didnt matter and turned out to last for yrs and set up properly didnt howl and never broke,so I think you could most likely succeed but it's your call...it looks very minor,i would use it...just my opinion and experience
 
Well dummy me, when I recieved it I turned the yoke a few times, felt good, looked good, I wrapped it and stored away.
I finally got to the point of finishing my rear, spin the yoke 360 and feel a catch. If I only would of spun it 360 when I first got it.
I shined a lite down in and noticed a piece of thin metal under the bearing cage and pulled it out. looked like a piece of shim material, rotated again and seemed much better but still a little catchy pulled apart and noticed the pinion bearings were probably shot too, order new Pin bearings and go to removing big bearing cage and noticed chip:banghead:
The man said he thinks the center will be just fine....My:bootysha:
Great possibility it got damaged during shipping too, cause when I recieved it the friggen bucket he shipped it in was split.
Fellas, Don`t ship these in buckets! The shippers probably drop these on purpose cause their too damn heavy:protest:
 
Well, IF you decide to run them, unless you took good measurements on your backlash they could and quite possibly will howl anyway. Did you mark the bearing caps as to which side they came from?
 
Thats an odd spot for a chip . i wonder if was a production defect
 
There was zero backlash when I checked it. Caps were preveously marked.
I was going to check pattern but tested pinion preload first, well the whole assemby turning was only 6 in.lb. So I figured I`d have to start from square1. I think this thing was thrown together and sold to some sucker.
I cant see any cracking beyond that chip.
Coin is an issue at the moment, thanks bamaconamy
I paid good money and was expecting a useable unit.
I have another carrier but it`s an open and airplane gears, I was looking forward for these 355s and sure grip.
Now the connumdrum, I`m leaning toward dressing and running.
But then you guys talking about locking up and I vision 5 years of work turning in to a totaled heap. maybe Cass has`nt shipped that order yet.
 
I would think that chip could have been caused by someone removing the bearing at some point in the past. I would smooth it up, and use it, I have raced gears that looked a lot worse than that.
 
RustyRatRod said:
, remember, not everybody always has the money to buy new stuff.
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Word, I remember high school and $3.35 min wage...we reused head gaskets, and bought used tires and drained coolant from the junk yard! Never had a failure involving any of this junk. Dress it and run it. Look at how it meshes and it probably never even touches that blem.
 
mopar head said:
There was zero backlash when I checked it. Caps were preveously marked.
I was going to check pattern but tested pinion preload first, well the whole assemby turning was only 6 in.lb. So I figured I`d have to start from square1. I think this thing was thrown together and sold to some sucker.
I cant see any cracking beyond that chip.
Coin is an issue at the moment, thanks bamaconamy
I paid good money and was expecting a useable unit.
I have another carrier but it`s an open and airplane gears, I was looking forward for these 355s and sure grip.
Now the connumdrum, I`m leaning toward dressing and running.
But then you guys talking about locking up and I vision 5 years of work turning in to a totaled heap. maybe Cass has`nt shipped that order yet.
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Take some more pictures from different angles, send them to Cass and get his opinion. Since you think this was thrown together, do the gears appear to be a matched set?
 
The pattern seems just to go up to that chip,right at the very tip.
Thanks for all the input fellas, running it is something to ponder,
Hate to press a new bearing on, assemble and discover the teeth are wore out. Is that possible?
This is my first rebuild, carrier bearings seem good so I`m reusing.
 

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Might be a good idea to Magnaflux it (and ring) to check for other cracks before re-install. If it looks good, dress the sharp edges and go.
 
replicaracer43 said:
I would think that chip could have been caused by someone removing the bearing at some point in the past. I would smooth it up, and use it, I have raced gears that looked a lot worse than that.
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That's what I thought when I saw it. When their in the area of no contact I have dressed them down smooth and ran them with no trouble.

Moparhead when you say there was no backlash that's an indicator that something wasn't set up right because they have to have some backlash. Usually .006-.010". If there's no backlash they'll heat up and seize. As for only having 6 inches of preload I have seen that in a worn but usable 3rd member. The differential side bearings don't add much to the preload and used pinion bearing preload isn't much. Heck the pinion seal drags as much or more than the bearings. 6 is pretty much at the bottom of the barrel though.
 
fishy68 said:
That's what I thought when I saw it. When their in the area of no contact I have dressed them down smooth and ran them with no trouble.

Moparhead when you say there was no backlash that's an indicator that something wasn't set up right because they have to have some backlash. Usually .006-.010". If there's no backlash they'll heat up and seize. As for only having 6 inches of preload I have seen that in a worn but usable 3rd member. The differential side bearings don't add much to the preload and used pinion bearing preload isn't much. Heck the pinion seal drags as much or more than the bearings. 6 is pretty much at the bottom of the barrel though.
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Exzacalacky, on the backlash, that`s why I tore into it .
I removed the ring carrier , spun the yoke and it was still slightly catchy, so I pulled the pin. and the bearings races, looked sketchey. I was hoping anew set of pin. bearings would hook me up, also bought the sleeve eliminator.
There was no marking on the pin. for shim and does`nt seem to be a shim under that race,- yet to be removed.
 
there will be a shim under that race.... reuse that shim, install new bearing and check pattern when you reassemble.
 
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