Search results for query: *

What kind of oil filter is that?

That's sounds like the time you inherited a ***** house and all the girls quit, had to run it by hand for awhile.

Why couldn't you take a cheap *** 3/8" extension and grind a tad off each side until it fits?

When did you order them? How long did it take to get shipped?

I bit the bullet and ordered a non-cnc set today. I figure they will probably be an improvement over my stock '915 J heads that I have on my 340 now.

Is the CNC version worth the extra money?

Any guess as to what you're compression ratio is going to be?

Not 100%, but I think .008 and I'm running the Fel-Pro 1008 gasket which is supposed to give .039 compressed.

So, if I were to get these, would I have problems with compression ratio? I'm currently running cast iron J heads and am getting about 175 psi. It is my understanding that these are closed chamber, so wouldn't that be smaller than the old J heads?

I wonder if they will have another black friday 35% off sale like last year?

Neither, get some "Right Stuff" and you won't regret it.

Where did you end up mounting it? I also read somewhere where the guy put ball bearings in the catch can as the increased surface area allowed more oil vapor to condense on them or something to that effect. Haven't tried it yet.

I've wondered if there wasn't a better solution for a long time too, but what could you put in there that wouldn't most likely come out and end up in your oil?

Put a catch can in between the PCV valve and the carb. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8TL35H/?tag=joeychgo-20

$1,183 for a set of heads seems like a good deal. Plus it looks like you have to get different style lifters and pushrods for the oil through the pushrod design of these.

You basically have to either get one of these: Or one of these: Currently, I have neither.

If you just screwed in the nipple from the end of the 90 to the block, then the Canton adapter could screw on, but because it's the same diameter as a filter, it would have nothing to seal against without the oil filter plate. Here's one in this thread: [Found!] - Oil filter plate

What size drill bit did you go up to??

Except the diameter of the filter end is smaller than the diameter of the block end. So I'm guessing the rubber seal wouldn't have anything to seal against in that scenario.

I wonder why that wouldn't work???

So basically, I have to spend some more money for another part?? Ughhh.

So on my 340 currently, I have the 90 deg filter adapter that goes on with the big hollow bolt. I'm going to be relocating the filter so I got the Canton adapter. I'm assuming that I need to pick up a short nipple and thread it into the block in order to use the Canton adapter?? Any old...

Or even better yet, a magnesium alloy block.

How about an aluminum 340 block that doesn't cost a bajillion dollars?

I run the Crane Gold roller rockers on my 340 with J heads. Never had a problem, and they aren't too spendy.

If they are J heads, the "valve seal" really is just a short umbrella that keeps most of, but not all, of the splashed oil from the springs off of the valve stem. There's always going to be some oil in the guides, if there weren't, the valves would seize up in the guides. I would ask the...

"I fabricated some washers the approximate thickness of the Felpro intake gasket (0.055 / 0.060) to place between the head and intake"

Did you ever find out what was going on ?? My exhaust on #7 is doing the exact same thing.

I've been having the exact same issue. It can drive you crazy. I've tried using shims to change the pinion angle, I've tried new u-joints, I'm going to try a new converter soon. I'll be following this thread to see if a fix is to be found.

I have one on right now, I like the ability to get a 3/4" socket or wrench on the bottom of them to tighten and loosen them. I think they're a good filter.