Search results for query: *

I distinctly remember measuring the piston diameter with a caliper and from what I recall, the SSBC caliper pistons were in fact smaller than the factory iron ones. It wasn't a lot but it was something. I guess I could be wrong, this was all 10-11 years ago and I don't have notes to refer to but...

Honestly, I don't think a "better" pad compound would overcome the fact that the caliper pistons are too small. I had the smallest bore master cylinder I could get (7/8") and it still wouldn't generate enough force over the given area of the pistons. In regards to break in, I made sure that I...

Yes, I had the same experience with them. In English we would say "they suck". Even with a small 7/8" bore master cylinder they produced no stopping power at all. It has nothing to do with the pads or bleeding them properly. The problem is that the pistons are too small and do not provide...

Thanks for the replies. Really seems like installing the line lock in the front brakes with this particular valve just makes a mess. This looks especially true when you mount the valve off the master. Line lock in the rear brakes for the win! BTW, when it gets installed in the rear, the...

I may have answered my own question. I can install the line lock in the rear brakes which would definitely help ease installation of the Wilwood valve. Yes, you can do that. The solenoid gets plumbed backwards thereby blocking pressure to the rear brakes. Doing it that way allows you modulate...

Looking at the Wilwood 260-11179 combination proportioning valve to replace the factory distribution block. Has anyone used of these with a Hurst Roll Control? If so, where was the solenoid installed? Seems like the valve could be a good thing for cleaning up the engine bay. Again, I'd like to...

That'd work, looks like a nice part though a little pricey. There are cheaper versions out there. I bought one a few years ago for a fuel line off Ebay that was about $40. If you can weld, this would be a decent option, you'd just need to source some fittings. Heidts Brake Line Thru-Frame...

If you absolutely have to cut it to be able to run it through the frame connector, use a solid bulkhead fitting flared on either end, not a flex hose. Flexible hose should be kept to a minimum to preserve equal pressure throughout the line. The brake line generally has to cross under the frame...

Since you quoted my post about FWD mcs, I was just pointing out the distinction, seemed like you were implying they were the same as the fwd cars.

86 fifth ave is RWD.

Well, I bit the bullet and ordered the stupid drum brake ball joints. This is the kind of crap that makes stuff NOT fun. I thought about drilling out the spindle to 9/16" but once I had the thought, I decided it wasn't worth the hassle and placed the order.

The spindles are drilled per the instructions, their 1/2"-20 bolt fits nice and snug. I was unsure of what the issue was with using a different ball joint but I did think it could be about a larger ball joint hole and smaller bolt. I suppose it's swimming around in the hole, you could end up...

I thought that too but... the disc brake specific ball joints use 9/16" bolts, the drum brake ones use 1/2". Just wondering if there is an issue using a smaller bolt with a larger hole on a ball joint?

I'm getting ready to change the SSBC/KH style disc brakes on my car to Wilwoods using their 10" drum brake spindle kit, #140-11023. Can I re-use the existing disc brake ball joints I already have (7023 & 7021) or do I need to get a set of the drum brake-specific ball joints (787 & 785)? If...

I had to go back and read what we were talking about here... Anyway, I still maintain the idea of looking around at 'street rod' oriented stuff since lot of those old ('30s-'40s) cars use a beam axle/spindle set up. If you went that route, your obstacles would be A) finding a bearing/rotor...

What exactly do you want to know?

Thanks AJ. I thought about the pads but came to the conclusion that was not the issue. The pads are what came in the kit and were bedded in properly. They are a cold compound. During the course of trying to get the car to stop better, I replaced the distribution block from a drum/drum to a...

Well, sorry for the useless info on my part. I still hate my brakes. Good luck.

I went through a similar scenario with my SSBC brakes, they pretty much suck. Not sure which ones you have, are they the small bolt pattern K/H type? I went with their SBP aluminum 4 piston calipers to save weight and keep my wheels. I don't have a booster so it's a manual system - disc front...

AndyF is AR Engineering. You can get his stuff through Mancini, Hughes, Bob Mazzolini, etc. I have a bunch of Andy's stuff on my car, he makes nice parts. At some point AR changed their adapters to use updated Wilwood calipers. Not sure if he even makes them anymore though. What kind of...

I believe that truck has a RWAL brake system so you may want to look up the procedure for bleeding, might be more involved than just the old pump and hold especially if you drained a lot of the fluid out. I was a Chrysler tech. Sometimes when we did brakes on an ABS system we had to use the...

Posting a link to a $384 Tahoe brake line set on Amazon? "Inline Tube SCTB00S2 Chevrolet Tahoe/GMC Yukon/GMC Denali, 1/2 Ton 2WD, W/Flex Hoses at Master, Complete Stainless Brake Line Set" :dontknow:

Holy dead thread Batman! The flex hoses from Mancini worked well, still on the car.

I hope that was not directed at me...

I was just making a point as to why you wouldn't choose a FWD master if you were theoretically starting from scratch. A MC designed for a diagonally split system may work but also may not. Like I said the proportioning may be off since in a diagonal system, one reservoir handles one front and...

FWD cars generally have a diagonally split system so the proportioning would likely be incorrect. I guess you could get away with it but that's the reason not to use a FWD master cylinder on a front/rear split car.

Bleed the rest of the brakes. Might have to do it multiple times. Might be a good idea to start with fresh fluid.

Cool, thanks for the info. Here are the Hawk pads I was looking at; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hwk-hb471f-510/overview/year/1971/make/plymouth/model/duster I spoke with Aerospace Components tonight as well. Guy on the phone said the SSBC caliper pistons sounded OK and should be able...

Factory hubs. Small ball joints and UCAs. These calipers are powder coated. I can see corrosion happening in an every day driver/all weather situation but I can't imagine it would be an issue for me. This is a nice day driver that spends 85% of the time in a well-insulated garage. Maybe down...

Rotors are stock replacement, 11" x .81". Perhaps caliper vs. caliper you don't save a ton but everything else that surrounds the brakes is larger too. Those integral rotors are super heavy, larger ball joints, UCAs etc. It all adds up. What problems do aluminum calipers cause?