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That pic makes sense. I think I still need to cut that oblong hole in the vertical edge of the f ender just in front of the pin to be able to access the bottom bolt on the pin. Any chance you can get a few measurements from the edge of the fender to the center of the pin, and maybe the edge of...

That's the one! I want to attempt it myself. I'm in Canada, so buying anything from the states stings with exchange, shipping, duty, and brokerage.

So cool! I didn't know they existed, they didn't when I was looking before! Thanks!

to cut the access hole in the front of the fender, the hole you'd drill would also go through the sheet metal on the rad support. At least that's what it looks like in the pics I've seen.

I remember seeing an old "how to" on bigblockdart on modifying a column shift to remove the lever for a floor shift. Cant find it any longer. Looking to restore an 67-69 column and do the modification. Any links to the resto and modification?

I searched the vaults for some info on this topic, but I'm still a bit unsure about where to drill holes for the hood pins. My car's a 69 valiant and I'm installing a fiberglass 6 pack hood. I know they didn't have pins from factory, so I figured I'd go with the location on a Duster. I'm...

pmd ya. I need two.

pm'd ya. I need a pair

I agree. Engine heat, and hot summer days will cause the lacquer to expand at a much different rate than a new water based paint and clear. Blast (aluminum oxide or some material that won't generate heat and warp your panels) and prime. A good autobody supply should be able to give you some good...

It's been a while since I was in the body industry, but if we broke through on a sizeable area, we would etch, some shops even use a 1k spray bomb etch on small areas, and like dodge71demon said, prime the area and over lap. "Bull's eye's" can occur if you don't have proper coverage and non...

couldn't you just etch prime the areas that you broke through and re spray with the high solids?

nice....