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I believe I have found a source for the R/S Series and '60-'62 A body Cowl Drain Flaps. The 62 year old rubbers on my Valiant Wagon were toast. I bought a set of 2 but they have yet to arrive. I am not sure if they are available elsewhere. I just verified the part # in my '62 Master parts book...

This was off of my '79 Volare F Body I have been to this rodeo before... Reset the tube/lever arm to the pedal shaft arm, reweld, grind, and reinforce with additional tubular metal on the Frame pivot side. I just happened to have some scrap tube that the ID of the tube is exactly the same...

Yes, when I get some time, I will do a little write-up.

I have started cutting and making my own clutch forks and Z bars out of cheap swap meet stuff. If you are skilled with the welder, and understand the basic geometry of clutch pedal/linkage/fork actuation you can do anything you think up. I say it's pretty easy, and I am not a smart person...

If you guys have a good sericable Disc and PP you can ship them to Falcon Clutch in Deer Park NY for a rebuild of your cores. There are other reputable rebuilders as well such as: Kentucky clutch H.R. Clutch Best of luck with your clutching endeavors.

Be careful with those Borg and Beck Type 10" Pressure plates and pressure rings if you plan to turn any RPM's.. Ask me how I know... :) If you plan to keep it below the ~5200RPM Range your bellhousing, Trans tunnel, and Feet **Should** Be okay. I have yet to Order one of the Ram Clutches...

I think the windshield has to be removed to unbolt the complete dash in any A body 1960-1976 for all flavors produced.

These knobs do not light up

Thanks for the Ideas and Options guys, it's appreciated.

The sheet metal is spotwelded to the Trans cross member. You will need to be careful when cutting or have a buddy who knows how to cut around the laminated steel sheet where it is welded onto the unibody frame to help you out. You can get a nice Blair spotweld cutter to put on a drill to cut...

Hello Sages, I am looking to restore my '62 Wagon Dash binnacle and gauge bezel. The heater/ defrost controls as well as the wiper knob and headlight knob is what I am trying to find out about. They are a pale yellow plastic... looking like the color of old teeth. What is the correct color/...

If you need a slip yoke transmission, get another transmission and the appropriate driveshaft. If you need to keep the ratios you have and they are not available in the slip yoke case then you will swap the extension housing and the output shaft from a donor transmission onto your flanged...

I have the USCT Connectors in the Grüne Hölle '64 Dart. Follow the instructions and weld them in. easy. I like them, and there are no issues other than some metal pounding, but you were expecting that on a 60 year old unibody anyway, correct?

Some folks have had success with 3M panel bond for parts like that - you still need to zip screw it in place as the bond sets up.

I have 1.03's In the Grüne Hölle '64 Dart with a 1.125 ( I think) Solid Sway Bar up Front It keeps up with 1990-2015 Porsche 911's on the Street and in the Corners - No Rear sway bar at all. Car is 3000# without me and is a very close to 50/50 weight distribution.

My Dad's '64 Dart which is mostly original and un messed with on the interior had a white one from the factory it seems. Car has not been really exposed to humans or the outside since 1972. 20200401_102944 by Hyperpack, on Flickr 20200401_103059 by Hyperpack, on Flickr 20200401_103105 by...

Thanks!

I believe the seat back was "split" on those for ingress / egress to the rear seat similar to a '69 Swinger Bench seat. But not split in the Seat area - one solid bench.

Yes you are correct sir! If you have a diaphragm style PP then probably no need for this mod. Greg

I think there are pictures in the link I shared.

If you use heavy Spring presure on the Pressure Plate you might want to be aware of this... Good Luck! Greg

Dave And Matt Probably have More AutoX Laps and development than I do. As Matt G has shared with us..... Mr. Mapes' Documentation is superb as well for both the Mustang, Dart and Barracuda.. I should read up on his notes. Greg

As John Mentioned, Here is my Grüne Hölle '64 Dart.. Every thing you ask is documented there except Tire Pressures and Alignment.. ↓↓my notes and setup data for me to reference from 7/21/21↓↓ Alignment: Caster +5.5° Camber -0.75° ( I have the Thick Washers and Proper Grade 8 Bolts /...

Thanks for your Help, info and tips, Wayne and Stan, I might hold off on removal as It seems that I can't pull off the die cast medallions without removing part of the headliner behind the rear door and trapezoid window.. If I try to just pull a bit of it apart i am sure all of it will rip and...

Alright, thanks! I will have to look up the part #'s for the clips to see if I can get some spares.. Might hafta Bust out the metal working tools and make a few too

Thanks for those pictures Stan, How do you go about getting the long stainless trim off? It seems attached by the clips to the pinchweld seam. So just slowly pry it off the pinchweld seam? The process even with the pics seems a bit difficult for me to wrap my head around.

Hello, what is the proper method / process for removing #s 10, 12, 13 from this illustration...... I want to buff and remove overspray on mine... but don't want to break clips etc in the removal process. Thanks!

Woo hoo, thanks for confirming. I have a Pair of '62's now.. Both amazingly have the speaker Grilles intact, but I am sure If I go in there to replace the speaker they will crumble to Dino dust.

This part would fit '60 and '61 model dashes as well correct?

Yes. I second what Stan said! Happy new year!