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Pretty good, I ordered a double!

I will report that the unit works as advertised and very happy with it. Easy hookup, have mine in the lower left kick panel of my 67 Dart. Will be putting one in my 1990 D150, nice to have the low fuel light.

The FBO box and coil runs 12v , no ballast resistor. And the plate lets you limit total timing so you can run more initial timing. No real rewiring needed from a stock Mopar electronic ignition system, just bypass the resistor.

FBO coil and box. Best money I have spent.

The power probe is great for trouble shooting. Hooked to a battery, pos and neg, you can use the probe to inject ground or power to test both sides of the circuit. As in the said light socket assy. With bulb in, and powered, you can touch the probe to the outer part of the bulb, and touch the...

inline solder joint, I always double heat shrink, first about twice the OD of wire in extra length both sides, then outer heat shrink, twice that length again, helps with strain relief.

Do you run vacuum advance? Also have you tried a little stiffer spring with the mechanical? In certain situations, running full, not ported vacuum advance with a higher initial works because as load increases, vacuum drops, retarding timing a little so no knock.

What engine, how many miles on motor, what type of ignition system? You know,the common stuff we always need to help trouble shoot.

I would wonder if it is low temp solder, if the circuit got hot, would it melt, increasing resistance and causing bad connection, possible fire?

Remove positive battery terminal lead, take a standard 12v test light, clip one end to the battery, put the probe end on to the cable end. the larger the draw, the brighter the test light gets. Start removing fuses, cable, Alternator, starter relay, any thing that takes power. when light goes...

Starter relay

Also the FBO system, bypasses the ballast resister also and is a plug and play into a stock electronic module harness.

First, what year Dart? what are you running for an alt now ? do you have a p/n? round or square back?Is your electrical system stock or do you have more load than stock? Have you checked the voltage regulator? Wiring? Help us so we can help you.

Single or dual field alt? What are you using to tell you it is not charging? Volt meter or the factory amp gauge. The voltage regulator needs a good ground, as does the alt. Is there a good ground from the engine to the firewall? I usually run a dedicated ground from VR to the Alt.

when I moved to Louisianan the roads where a litle rougher than when I lived in New Hampshire, coil went out about one month after the move. seems like an internal wire broke. went with a Mopar off-road coil and no issues. Since moving to Arkansas, switched to a FABO ECU and coil, no issues with...

best bet is to replace from alt/sending unit etc., back to the firewall. I do not like to splice, it adds 2 more connections, both sides of a butt connector or at least one if soldered properly. If harness is relatively new, splice may not be to bad to get you going again, but would still...

yes this is the style to use and the wiring dia.

Just installed this alt on my Dart with the wiring as shown and works good. ran the ground wire at the alt to the mounting screw at the newer style regulator.

Volvo had a rev limiter built into their rotor, a channel between the center of the rotor and the tip, a small spring with a small steel ball pushing against the center post. as rpm's went up over a certain speed the ball would overcome the spring tension and break contact. the performance rotor...

I buy a roll of plug wire and ends and make my own.

90 or 120 amp Denso out of a late 80's early 90's dodge truck. Also external regulated. Will need different brackets. Got mine out of salvage yard, $25.

Have been using the FBO coil and box with rev-limiter for over 5 years now with no problems. Had a orange box that gave me nothing but problems.

Normal two field wire alt when ign is on sends voltage through the alt. sounds normal to me.

If I remember correctly, a 1989 Dakota or regular pickup could have it also, optional because of higher electrical load. a/c, trailer towing etc.

Bottom mount has flat bar front and rear with a bit of a gap for shimming and a cross brace from inner bar attached at block to outer bar attached at alt bolt Also when I switch to fuel inj, a 120 amp Denso will bolt in the same mounts, so an upgrade will be no problem if needed.

Also have Eddy heads on a 360, using a 90 amp Denso, made up my own mounts using bottom pivot. With headlights on, dual spal fans running and A/C, 13.8 volts at idle.

Battery in trunk with quick disconnect.

What car, year, options etc......

Yes, bad enough it is called a nova once in a while, damn sure no GM key. I may hurt it's feelings even more

FBO works very well, been running one for a couple of years now, better starting, idle, no loss of performance and rev limiter also. And with the built in trouble light, easy to diagnose when run it out of fuel! If light is flashing look elsewhere, hate the newer fuel sending units.