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A couple of strands of copper wire wouldn't hurt either. or just jump a wire on each side.

Be sure to put that sla in a plastic box as they tend to leak nasty stuff.

I realize that, but anything other than an SLA will need some kind of charging circuit. a small nicad may also work.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/255757543406

I assure you sir any proper grammar or spelling on my part is purely by happenstance :) Merry Christmas.

These things can be frustrating , but the dash wiring was not, in my opinion, designed to be out in the weather for 50 years, that being said, any movement or handling of the wires can cause disconnections or faults and I wouldn't be upset at the installer for this happening. If they fried a...

Nope, but that is what I used to think also, the vacuum should be highest at idle. A lean fuel charge burns slower so you need more spark advance, which is what happens when you have a lot of vacuum. THere is no vacuum advance at WOT only at idle or cruising.

um, there should be vacuum and vacuum advance at idle, that is why you remove the hose to check timing. The vacuum should go away when you accelerate, if not this will cause your engine to stumble. If you reattach the vacuum line and your timing doesn't get more advanced at idle then...

you may also need to check your vacuum advance on the distributor, also you should plug this while checking your timing.

You may want to remove the #1 spark plug and find tdc. Just to be sure your timing marks are still in the correct space. Then add a new mark if the line is off, or tape.

Do you have a mechanical voltage regulator or a solid state ? the mechanical regulators have a tendency to spike the voltage at a certain RPMs, It used to set off my radar detector at 36 MPH, back in the day, and it may mess with the radio. Also it could be bad capacitors, in the radio.

KRDB120 - KRDB Series - Delay on Break Time Delay Relays - Littelfuse

I do believe you missed my point

So if you switched to LED tail lights you should use a heavy duty flasher. Not for the current draw but for the blink speed.

from what I understand the heavy duty flashers flash independently of the current draw of the load themselves. Whereas the standard flashers blink faster under a heavy load and slower under a light load.

We battle this all the time in IC chips where lines need to be separated and limited to the amount of length they run together. Otherwise a pulse on one line will appear on another line. We call it cross talk.

THey are only a few degree apart, So I am not sure how that would help.

Do you have a mechanical voltage regulator or solid state ? Mechanicals have a nasty habit of turning off at certain rpms. I remember my FOX radar detector getting tripped at 35 miles per hour.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Quest-Audio-Video/292-100262.html https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Stereos/Rockford-Fosgate/292-100834.html It is a little pricey, but I figure I can add a henge to the remote display and hide it under the dash and just flip it down if I need to change...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-RGB-Changing-LED-Headlights-DRL-Lights-Combo-KIT-For-Wrangler-JK-TJ-LJ-LXC/223640727190 7" Round Chrome Glass Lens White Led Halo Projector Headlights H4 H6015 H6024 V3 | eBay

check ebay there are a bunch just a standard 7" bulb.

Relay Wiring Harness for High/Low Beam HID Xenon Kit 9004 9007 H4 H13 9008 | eBay has anyone tried one or two of these ?

I think adding a pair of these may help. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Relay-Wiring-Harness-for-High-Low-Beam-HID-Xenon-Kit-9004-9007-H4-H13-9008

I picked up a set like that locally from someone who was converting their jeep to leds. I think I paid $20. They are a different look. Mine had H13 bulbs in it not sure if the H4's will fit the same.

I believe the voltage regulator you are referring to is actually called the dash regulator not to be confused with the voltage regulator controlling your charging system, also there is a capacitor, I believe it is either to smooth out your gauges or to keep your radio from popping, or both...

1x 7" Classic Cut Glass headlight Sealed Beam Conversion kit Metal Housing H6024 806829470211 | eBay

Has anyone tried one of these kits ? H6024 Dual Beam Sealed Beam LED Headlight Conversion Kit I believe there is a LED version also.

I am putting a TILE in mine, it is cheap insurance for what it is worth.

If you have a good battery, does it really need to be switched? let it run after you shut the engine off it should shut off after temperature goes back down.

Chrysler Entry & Ignition Key Set I saw this, not sure if it will work or not