12v Switched near Radiator

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mario03srt

mario03srt

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All,

I'm wrapping up my dart project and am wiring in the fan relay. It is going in under the battery tray. Question is, in my 73 Dart is there a Switched 12v source for my relay at the front of the car? Not main power 30 in but for terminal 85 coil. Trying to avoid as much back and forth wiring as possible. Maybe a/c old lead for the A/C? I'm using a one wire alternator if that matters into the equation. I have a manual but I did not pick up on a choice.

Thanks,
Marion
 
Only the lights have switched power at the front of the car (maybe an AC lead) but the lights have power available all the time, but it not switched except for the headlight switch.

You might consider running a new fused accy positive wire and a thermostatic controlled fan switch.
My fan comes on at 210 degrees and shuts off at 190 no matter if the key is on or not or the car is running or not.
It has complete control regulated by the cooling system temperature and what temp I set the switch at.
Been working flawlessly for four years straight of daily driving.
 
If you have a good battery, does it really need to be switched? let it run after you shut the engine off it should shut off after temperature goes back down.
 
Relay under the battery? No way would I ever do that.
 
It's one new wire for triggering the relay. I can't think of anything in a OEM harness that is switched that far forward.

Under the tray isn't a good spot? It's not bad for a stealthy install.
 
What if the battery pukes acid out? I just wouldn't do it.
 
All,

I'm going to have my FiTech provide the switching of the Fans. It has internal parameters to set the hi/lo limits. It sends a ground signal to the Relay at terminal 86. It has a temp sensor installed in my AirGap. I will run a lead from the Brn/Blu Ign to trigger the relay. I'm also using a relay to power the FiTech also but it will be on the firewall. Under the battery will be just fine. If it helps I do have a new Acid Mat going in under the battery and the tray! I trying to keep my Bay as clean as possible and still serviceable.

Thanks,
Marion
 
Since the FiTech supplies the relay ground couldn't you just jump the the main power to the "switched lead" on the relay? I'll be dealing with the same issue eventually myself. So I'm curious.
 
mario03srt said:
All,

I'm going to have my FiTech provide the switching of the Fans. It has internal parameters to set the hi/lo limits. It sends a ground signal to the Relay at terminal 86. It has a temp sensor installed in my AirGap. I will run a lead from the Brn/Blu Ign to trigger the relay. I'm also using a relay to power the FiTech also but it will be on the firewall. Under the battery will be just fine. If it helps I do have a new Acid Mat going in under the battery and the tray! I trying to keep my Bay as clean as possible and still serviceable.

Thanks,
Marion
Click to expand...

Yea, you are going to need a heavier positive for the fan than any accessory these cars ever had anyway so you'll need to run a new hot wire up there.
 
All, I'm running the battery direct to pole 30 with a supplied circuit breaker from the relay kit from Champion. I need 12v ign switched to 85 and ground to 86 from fitech, then 87 out to the fan 12v in. Just trying to keep from running a wire down the inner fender. Looking for a cleanest possible setup. Marion
 
Again, why can't you jump 30 and 85 if the FiTech is completing the circuit? Seriously is there a reason not to?
 
mario03srt said:
All, I'm running the battery direct to pole 30 with a supplied circuit breaker from the relay kit from Champion. I need 12v ign switched to 85 and ground to 86 from fitech, then 87 out to the fan 12v in. Just trying to keep from running a wire down the inner fender. Looking for a cleanest possible setup. Marion
Click to expand...
Well, if there aint one, there aint one. The blue wires are switched hot. Find at voltage regulator, ignition module, alternator, etc... a tape measure will say which is closest to battery.
My relay enclosure is on opposite side. I got 12 volts supply to a maxi fuse, terminal block, etc.., and a switched hot ( blue wire ) right there off the alternator.
 
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