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x2 Also, are you running the stock cam? If so, bump it up. The 318 needs more than a stock cam when using a 4bbl.

Use a different radiator if you don't wanna mess with the pump & timing cover......

"It's a boat anchor"....... Just kiddin! Its well worth saving. Not 100% sure on the crank but either way, don't let it go to the scrapper.

Check the coil & the Ballast Resistor. Both should have voltage.

JMO. Unless you go with a little bigger cam, a 4 barrel is a wasted effort on a 318.

Heres a cheap trick if you go with the 318. Go to the U-Pull & grab the passenger side motor bracket/mount from a 70's dodge truck. Use it on the passenger side of your car. This will save $$$$$ from having to buy conversion mounts. Driver side will be the regular car variety. I did this on my...

x2 This stuff lives up to it's name, especially on engine compartment panels. Brake clean is fine but for stubborn stuff I spray it with oven cleaner. Rinse the oven cleaner well then wash with Dawn soap.

Use the 273 mounts. Just shim 'em up with the appropriate size washer(s) where the mount to the block ears.

Yep, modify existing mount if you have them. I cobbled one together from a spare to make one, but I'm cheeeeap. Shumacher has them if you can't find used or don't wanna fab some. Also, welcome to the site.

Yep, you will need this number. If it is a special performance, there will be a 3 right after 360. Sequence like so: ? ? 360 3 then production #'s The ? ? are Date & plant #'s Hope this makes sence.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you think it needs cleaning, just flush the radiator & block. Also, there are drain plugs on each side of the block if you want to peek inside. 1956 Ford..... glad to hear you found a way to make it run good :toothy10: Those are cool trucks though.

No but if the coolant is old & crusty you may benefit by flushing out the entire cooling sytem. As for replacement, it is very easy to do with the engine out of the car. Are the plugs leaking?

190* is not to high in the heat. You might check the radiator cap to be sure it's doin it's job. Running the manual fan with the electric seems overkill & may be causing air restriction. Readjust the kickdown! Get it setup right or you'll be in for a rebuild sooner than later.

Yes, the driver side bracket will need some washers or ? to modify originals. The 360 has a narrower mounting ears than 273/318 so the mount is a tad to wide.

Early A-Bodies do use the same K, v8 or /6 You will need the 64-66 v8 engine brackets. Post a wanted ad or buy the schumacher stuff.

Yes, bring up the tranny. You want to keep the motor & trans pretty level. One thing you can try too, is to bolt the tranny & crossmember first to guide. Don't raise the engine any higher than needed or the trans mount may get damaged.

Engine brakets go behind the ears. Then it should drop right in.

Very scary! You are absolutely correct with regard to 64-65's odd 5/16 intake. I have always gone 40 but that was not with 5/16 bolts. Just the way I was taught. I did dig up old service manuals & liturature & each showed 64-71 anywhere from 35-40ftp with the majority showing 35ftp. Goes to...

Yes. 273/318 through the '60s

Yes. thats the order. Pick either side but do not torque all the way. Keep snugging each bolt in sequence a little at a time until you reach the torque spec. Have fun

For the intake, it's 40 ft lbs. Tightening sequence: 11 7 3 1 5 9 12 8 4 2 6 10 (Each number is a bolt) I just go old school on the others. Snug em down evenly but don't get carried away on the valve covers. To loose or to tight.......leak!

Kind of sounds like some "gunk" got pulled up the fuel line. Check filter out & make sure the carb is shooting a steady stream.

Glad it's back on the road! I would not worry about the distributor unless it has alot of side to side movement. See pic

Did you replaced the plugs with new ones? I've never had any luck cleaning gas fouled plugs. I will assume they fouled from the no start condition otherwise a carb rebuild is in order. Check the coil. Had this problem on my sons 273. It would work then fail. http://www.mymopar.com/coiltest.htm...

Are you trying to use the man. choke on restart. If so, don't

Two things come to mind. Points Dirty carb bowl

Double check before tapping...........1/4" npt allen head......or good ole JB Weld

You might try testing the coil also. Sometimes when they are on there way out, they can cause this.

I did mine all in cast iron with aluminum covers. Sounds nuts but it looks sweet.

Awesome. Old school rodding!