Search results for query: *

They’re been in the works since earlier this year: Plenty of Pachyderms: Where to Get Modern Gen II Hemi Blocks - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech

This tech article might be of interest to you. Saturday Morning Tech: Build Your Own Air Grabber With K&N Filters - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech

Don't forget to grab the spark plug wires. The coil ends are EDIS-specific. I have right around $325 in each of my setups.

Correct, although the EDIS system comes from Ford with a magnetic (VR) sensor. Plenty of good sensor selection from '93 - '96 Ford/Lincoln/Mercury 4, 6, or 8 cylinder vehicles. They're usually about $20 at any local auto parts store (not including pigtail).

The cam sensor is required if you want to drive each spark plug independently, such as a coil-on-plug (COP) system. The Ford EDIS setup fires as "waste spark" where pairs of cylinders spark at the same time. (1,6) , (8,5) , (4,7) , and (3,2) fire as pairs in waste spark, but one of the cylinders...

I have two cars running the Ford EDIS ignition (waste spark, 36-1 wheel). One is a 440 with a carburetor, so the ignition is run by a Megajolt box. The other is a 408 with Holley Terminator EFI running coil drivers that fire factory EDIS coils. I've actually listed 36-1 trigger wheels here...

That is a '58/'59 big block bell housing for the old A466 Torqueflite.

Mine is the front clip I chopped off of a '69 Charger, from the torsion bars forward. I stripped all the bolted-on sheetmetal off and added a few switches for ignition, etc. Whenever I'm not using it, I can just push it right behind the shop.

What do the initial timing and timing curve look like?

Right on. Don't see that too often. Most people will sit and argue head numbers all day. I'll agree that I would look for 452's first, because of the valve seats, as you said. mopardrt, are you keeping the same pistons in the engine? That will factor in on whether you look for open or closed...

You're going to have $1,500 in the heads alone for that build. I think those are the big factor for those 545 horses.

One big block is not going to cost more to mod compared to the others since they use a lot of the same parts. $1,500 isn't going to go very far so I would look for something that already runs and bolt on a different intake/carb combo along with headers and possibly a different cam. It will cost...

It won't take much for that 440 to feel powerful in an A-body. I would go with a Performer RPM, Holley 750 with vacuum secondaries, and for the cam, I would call Hughes Engines. The intake is pretty standard, but as far as the carb and cam go, you could get 50 different answers from 50 different...

Here is a Car Craft article on it, for what it's worth: http://www.carcraft.com/techfaq/ccrp_0809_building_hemi_for_less/index.html. Says it cost them $13,355.32 to build (Feb. 2009).

"14 year olds budget", good gas mileage, and good performance do not work well together. You need to pick one out of the three. If you can work up 5K though, you should be able to put together something in the 425-450 horse range. Does the engine come with 906 heads? If it doesn't, I wouldn't...

He must not be lookin very hard because Summit Racing has 4 pages worth of 383 pistons on their website. They range from $324 to $665.

What do you mean by "performance type"? What kind of compression ratio are you going for? I don't think I would try to bore a 383 out to 400 bore size. You would have to go 0.090". The cylinder walls would be getting pretty thin by then. There are plenty of aftermarket 383 pistons available...

All A/B/C/E body 727's are the same length. Just about the only other tailshaft option would be the really short truck unit, but you don't want that. What did the car have in it before? A 904 I'm guessing? Also, you need to look at which slip yoke and pinion yoke you'll need, along with the...

Not all the RV 440's were external balanced with six pack rods though. My '74 is factory internal with regular rods and a cast crank. Had to take mine out to get the hole drilled in the back for a 4 speed.

I have a '74 Winnebago 440/727 in one of my cars. Both slipped right in. The transmission was a regular A/B/C/E body style. Heads are probably 452's (they are on mine anyway). I definitely wouldn't say 906's are the best heads. They only flow marginally better than 452's or 902's, if they flow...

They definitley never came from the factory with them. Edelbrock is making a very similar valve cover set nowadays. It's supposed to be kind of a retro-look cover.

902 heads are pretty much the same as 452's and 906's as far as flow goes. The main difference between 902's and 906's is that the 902's will have hardened seats. I've got an RV 440 in one of my cars. It has some low end grunt, but it runs out of steam pretty quickly with the 8:1 compression.

Sounds about right to me. I found this pic on the Car Craft website a while back I think.

The big differences are the cam and compression ratio. The heads on the later 440's are just as good as the early 440 heads as far as flow. Plus, the later 440 heads have hardened seats so you can run unleaded. It would be pretty easy to "wake up" a truck 440 with either some closed chamber...

The pad for B-blocks is in a different spot (circled in yellow).

There is a pad below the distributor and right above the water pump that should have the displacement stamped on it for B-blocks. I would guess it is a 400.

Yeah, you can PM me. The transmission should be 35 inches in overall length.

Yes, it was out of a big motorhome, not one of the truck/van things with a camper in the bed. It was a direct fit and looks exactly like all of my A/B/E 727's. Same driveshaft was used too. Motorhome exhaust manifolds are center dump and will not work. Not sure about the C-body manifolds, but...

I've got a '74 motorhome 727 in my car. It's the exact same as a car transmission. No mods at all to get it in.

This is kind of unrelated to your question, but what Thermoquad rebuild kit did you use, and where did you get it from? I'm trying to find one for my '73 TQ.