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I don't currently have an early "A" with an engine in it to check. But I remember the passenger side would of required one or two tubes to be rerouted. When I saw that the easy side was going to require work I didn't even bother looking at the driver side.

I have some shorty headers I bought used. They are likely Dakota headers and they will not fit the early A's. The tubes hit the inner fenders. I'm not even sure they would fit a later A body. They just aren't built very tight coming off the head.

Looks good, did you have to have the studs out to install headers?

double post

Just need some thread sealant on them bolts. I have always felt like studs were a pain in the *** using headers. I seem to remember you have to remove them to get the header on or off, even during a gasket change. So the dumping water is there either way. You could probably drain the coolant to...

Yes it will, I don't know of any early A w2 headers either.

I know TTI does. http://www.ttiexhaust.com/

Looks and sounds great!

It will be close but I would be prepared to go to the muffler shop or do some cutting and welding.

I had a 87 Mustang 5.0 and a 93 F450 work truck with clogged cats. They both ran just like youre saying great at idle but wouldn't run over 45 mph and were getting really lousy fuel milage. I would also consider the carb or fuel system as the problem since you didn't have any issues before...

X2 I would think that would be closest to stock. The price is just hard to swallow.

Bought these at spring fling a couple years ago thinking they may work on an early "A" After holding them up to both an early "A" and a 1968 "A" body I don't think they will fit either application without modification. One of the tubes just goes out to wide and would hit the passenger inner...

Did you check engine placement in the chassis?. You may need to shim or replace motor mounts if they are old to get the engine in the correct position.

If you already have heads your looking at custom headers unless your heads have the dual pattern. I have some Indy 360-1 heads with the dual pattern that I have been wanting to try on a early A with the TTI headers but haven't gotten around to it yet.

My car doesn't have the mini tubs but does have the springs relocated. I was able to run the TTI 2.5" tailpipes with minor modification to the pipes mostly the passenger side and making a new way to mount them. As was said above the pipes follow the frame so I don't think the mini tub will make...

I'm thinking Chevy 2 headers might work if you hack off the front clip and install a chevy 2 front clip. Don't they just bolt on?

This is the best of both worlds. The Mopar "A" body cars can be bought reasonably cheap compared to Camaro/Nova cars. The Chevy engine is by far the cheapest engine you can put together on a budget. This could be a true 10sec. budget build. Don't lift the hood nobody would no the difference and...

Sure would be a lot cheaper to install a Chevy engine. We need to talk to TTI about some headers for this swap.:D

You can't hardly beat the fit and quaility of the TTI system going over the rear axle if the rear suspension is stock. The modifications would be very minor to make it fit. I do think it would require some cut and weld just to get the angle right from the header collector to the H pipe though...

No I don't think it will. The good part is it should not be hard to adapt, there is just a small adapter that mounts from the collector to the H pipe on the tti system that has to be length sized anyways. Probably just have to add some bends to that adapter or go to muffler shop and get a new...

Not dealing with Harold would seem like money well spent based on the horror stories I read on these forums.

Most likely a standard or mini starter will not fit with the dougs headers and the 727 trans. I had bought some headers that were very similar to the Dougs headers and had to buy a $400.00 clockable starter to fit with a 727 trans. That may be a solution but not cost effective for most people.

I read some place that reducing the size of tail pipes didn't have a big effect on the performance. Think it had something to do with the exhaust gas temperatures cooling off father back in the exhaust system. At our local track there was a guy running 10.00et at 135mph in a 1965 Chevy 2...

Me personally prefer a good sounding muffled engine to the cut outs. Seems all the guys running cutouts, The engines all sound like ****. Money could be better spent IMO.

If you end up cutting holes make sure the exhaust ports are covered when cutting . I made the mistake of not doing that when I was younger. Ended up rebuilding that motor. lol... I'm not 100% sure those are fender well exit, it sure doesn't say that on the summit site.

Those headers look right. I would think Hooker would have some directions. Still not clear to me if they are fenderwell or inframe style headers.

The early Barracuda take a different header than the 67 and later A body cars. Hopefully you have the right headers. I not aware of hooker headers that fit the early "A" body. Doesn't mean they don't make them but if they do they may be fenderwell exit or partial fenderwell exit style header...

They look outstanding under the hood and are easy to install. The thing I didn't like on mine was the exhaust hanging down below the frame right behind the wheels. In this picture from another member here on the board. You can see where you have to duck down under the frame with the exhaust...

Mini starter will work with 904 trans and TTI headers The original and other starters will work with fender well headers. You only need that RobbMc clockable starter for the 727 trans or the 11" clucth bell housings if you have a manual trans. Has to do with size of transmission/starter...

I did my own. Probably will need to move/relocate the brake line block down on the frame also. The 904 trans. needs a mini starter. The 727 trans needs the expensive RobbMc starter.