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I have an all original 7071 340 air cleaner with original pie 10 driver's quality I have not cleaned it just the way I got it $750 plus to ride or I'll sell the pie 10 for 200

I have a special oil I like for my dodge diesel but for everything else I buy Walmart brand.

solid choice is always a 3/4 race cam baby! pays the money and ride the lightning!

Not on the ice but Semenko and Ali in an exhibition, pretty cool! :thumbsup:

A notchback 273 Commando is my dream car. You never see those.

That thread was 2016 and I switched to EFI in 2017. Holley made a ton of changes to the emulsion circuits of the newer carbs but never explained it. It wasn't just Holley though since other carb vendors like QF did the same thing. Even the tuners like Braswell made big changes. I never did find...

I saw it too. It sold pretty quick! https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/50-nos-washer-bottle-early-a.561903/#post-1974688376

I get it. I have my brand for the cars also. Just an avenue to mention the deals for lawn mower oil - most oils starts at $8 per quart and lawnmowers seem to like it - a lot. I’m too cheap to buy a new mower. lol!

I will only run Penn grade 10-30 in my race car.

Not bad. I was at advanced auto last night and in their clearance section I found their brand oil different viscosity for $4.29 per quart. Great for the lawn mower and such. I bought it all (20 quarts of 30w, 10w30/40 20w50) Deals can be had - you just have to look.

@9secRR. See the links in post #44. I think those will answer your question.

lol it’s not a ******* theory. It works for ANY internal combustion engines. I absolutely guarantee you that your engine doesn’t have a clue it’s a race engine. Bet all you have and a lot of what you don’t have that 37 degrees of timing at peak torque is EASILY killing 20-30 HP. If it was...

Japan is top shelf for sure.

I was getting a little low on oil and I usually try to find a deal early in the race season. Best deal I found was five quart bottles at Summit so I have four bottles on their way. Price was a hair cheaper with Pro Shop pricing. Last year Amazon had a good price on it but they couldn’t come...

@Oldmanmopar may have what you need.

Thanks Troy, young lads gonna drop by and we'll finish it up. I hassled TTi today and our kit hasn't shipped yet... :BangHead: Packing/shipping dude is backed up...

ok thanks for your knowledge

The family has an Audi and it's the same story there. Way too often do we have to flash back to show those are in fact not the brights on that are blinding (and it's only been messed with by the dealer so no aiming funny business or aftermarket bits).

what engines did you dyno test this theory? stock, mild, all out race engines? i do have a lot of converter and my car is light.

Time slips prove nothing.

The proper pop rivet would be a “cherry” blind head aircraft rivet. imo you can’t beat the tried and true 1/8 NPT

Steve, that puppy looks like it's about ready to fire!

The old-timers get there before 3:00. If you want to have a decent spot on the lawn, you need to be there around 4:00 5:00 at the latest. If we get a day where it's not too hot and not cool, it'll be a blowout probably around 80 cars

Another one from @niceolddart Discount good till 6/7. 265524857236752373

Then you won’t get the proof you want. My question to you is why would locking out a distributor make more power? Most everyone knows that ICE’s want a curve.

Rock Auto 5% Discount Valid 'til June 7 2024 265387107236635971

i want to see time slips that prove this? if it's 20-30 HP more HP, the ET and MPH will change.

I'm in recovery these days, only 4 vehicles, at least right now.................................. Stay tuned!