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I don't want to use solid mounts on my 440 Dart, but I do want much more stable than rubber. I have poly mounts in my '93 Cummins Dodge and they are great, but I haven't been able to find them for the Dart.

Has anyone out there broken a 23 spline input shaft? I would rather not go to the expense of upgrading my trans, but on the other hand I tend to make bad choices with power and torque!

Putting a 440 in my '69 Dart with a Lakewood scatter shield and A833, Dana 60 out back. It will have less than 600hp to the wheels, probably about 600 torque, trying to decide on the proper flywheel and clutch size. Does the Lakewood change anything for ring gear size?

Trying to see how much HP I need to make to get to a high 10's, any of you weigh your 440 4-speed Dana 60 Stock Body Darts?

Calculating everything out I realized that my quench area between the quench block on my pistons and the open chamber is .040" without head gasket. I'm looking for .035" with HG, so I have to take the block back in to zero deck it. Crap. Guess I will have to get the intake milled a little also...

I am prepping my parts for bob weight calculation to balance my forged crank. Is 1 gram max difference between pistons acceptable for a 440 that probably won't see more than 6k rpm or so, or do I need to zero them out?

I need a kick in the shorts to finish my 440 '69 Dart GT project! I'll start off with my garage statue...

Mocking up the 440, measured .042" quench distance between piston top and head (.020" steel shim head gasket included". The pistons are .030" down in the hole at TDC. Should I have .005" or so decked off the block? These are iron heads, hyperutectic pistons with steel rods.

While I am still gathering parts and horsetrading to get my 440 up and running I am punching in the numbers for my engine in Desktop Dyno, and I can't find the detailed cam specs for the old .509 cam. I need valve opening and closing events. Looked in all my ancient Mopar engine manuals and old...

Anyone have a way to guess volumetric efficiency of a 440 with 10.5:1? I know the 426 Hemi I used to have would go over 100% VE, but I have no idea (or even a guess) as to the efficiency of an iron headed, mildly ported, big valve wedge heads. Thoughts, experiences? I guess a dyno sheet would say?

I have researched the crap out of this combo, and I am continually amazed that a vintage cam design, low flowing iron heads, old school Torker intake and mostly stock bottom end can put you in the low 11's and even 10's in an A-Body (especially with a stick). This is the classic case of the sum...

I once ran a .509 cam in a Cuda with a 383 at a measured 10.6:1, and once I figured out it needed like 17deg initial but low 30's total it ran like a scalded hog (except below 3k, tight converter). After 30 years I am putting together a 440 for my '69 Dart GT, shooting for 11:1 with .035" quench...

So my 440 heads have two extra water holes (I guess because they are 213 motor home heads). I assume that I can just open these up in the gasket to get the extra cooling. What concerns me is the gasket is really misaligned on the intake side water ports (see pictures). Do I need to open...

A machinist told me today that 1.88" exhaust valves are too large for a 440 and will scrub the cylinder wall. I'm pretty sure the MAX Wedge head had 1.88" valves on a smaller bore than the 440 (413 and 426) so I am guessing the machinist might not be right. Thoughts?

I have most of the parts together for my 440, except cam, lifters and roller rockers. I have 213 heads with big valves also, but wedge heads just don't flow well, especially factory iron. But the more I read about those great heads on the 3g hemi the more I want one. I miss my 2g Hemi. 440 or Eagle?

I know, it's one of those questions, but what can I expect a stock bodied 1969 Dart GT to weigh with a 440 and a A833? I am trying to estimate the performance of my car so I am not surprised (in a bad way).

Anyone have one of these I could rent, beg, borrow, buy or steal? I am going to build my own headers and possible make my own K-member. Thanks! Mark

Hello! So Hughes insists that I need to run their cam HEH2832BL and nothing larger at my altitude (5,000 to 7,000ft) with an 11:1 .030" over 440, but that looks really small to me. 440Source raves about the Comp XE295HL but that looks like a lot of cam for even very hot street/bracket. Anyone...

I just talked to Bob Mazzolini (super nice guy) and he said TTI has tentatively agreed to do a run of 15 of those awesome partial fender well headers for A Body Big Blocks. He has about 8 people on the list so far. I am passing this along for informational purposes only. His number is 951 787...

I have a '73 date coded 440 block, 213 heads with 2.14" in and 1.88" ex Manley race valves, a set of KB Hyperutectic (KB 146 .030, 1.09" pin, foating or press) with the raised area for quench, a set of weak factory LY rods, an awesome set of 440 six pack rods which are polished and bushed for...

I just picked up a set of 440 Six Pack rods that are bushed for .99" pins. I hadn't noticed that fact before I paid for them (ebay) and my KB Hyperutectic's use the standard pin size of 1.09". :oops:So, I guess I can drill out the bushings (sic), get new pistons (also sic) or sell the rods...

Will these headers be a big limitation on a big inch engine? I don't want to spend a ton of money and then hate the headers! I had Hooker 2" piece together headers on my '68 Hemi Road Runner and they were great, but that's overkill for this project.