02 Sensor Mount

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bobscuda67

bobscuda67

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I'm thinking about buying a air fuel gauge for my car and I really don't want to weld in a sensor bung. I have stock exhaust manifolds with the 2.25 pipe and tips out the back.
I see that they make a bracket that clamps on the tip and the sensor screws into it . The directions say it's accurate to do it this way as long there's no cats in the system and
I like it because it's removable and you can switch it from car to car.
Has anyone ever used this setup and how did it work?
 
mhh
doesn't sound right to me
(never seen one though)
 
image.jpeg
August issue of Mopar Muscle did a FITech EFI install where they showed this arrangement.
 
I used one of those clamp types on my truck. Works well. Lucky for you, I took some pis of the install.

Here's the drill set up I used. I needed a right angle adapter because it was a tight space.
IMG_2731_zpsryu3kuke.jpg


Here's the hole...
IMG_2730_zps6dcdikbd.jpg


Here's the finished install.
IMG_2734_zpsiig0b7bc.jpg


Just be aware that the adhesive backing on the thermo material is not the greatest and can move around a little when installing. Leave the whole thing a little loose to make sure it's all lined up then tighten it down.
IMG_2732_zpsvxxlgabs.jpg
 
If you are talking about clamping one on at the very end of the tailpipe, Forget that!! The sensor will give the best readings, when it totally immersed in the swirling homogeneous hot exhaust up near the collectors(dumps in your case). They are easily fooled by atmospheric air contamination. By the time the exhaust reaches the "TIP", it has lost hundreds of degrees, and is no longer swirling and in fact atmospheric air can and does travel backwards up the pipe in varying circumstances. Tip-placement is a bad idea.
 
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When I got mine I considered that and did some research on it.
Since official smog testing is done at the end of the pipe I thought it might be reasonable to give it a go, but the directions for the gauge also says that the sensor should be the high temp area of the exhaust and all the recommended spots for mounting were right towards the end of the collector for headers or beginning of the rest of the system, or in the head pipe before the cat in factory exhausts.
It also recommends if it is used at the end of the exhaust, it needed to be (I think it was 24 inches) minimum up inside the pipe so fresh air would be less likely to come in contact with the sensor and skew the readings.
After I researched and found all that I decided to put it in permanently.
 
Good catch AJ I totally missed the mounting at the Tips part. I was assuming he was talking about a bracket that clamps to the tip of the sensor, not the tip of the pipes.
 
Yea, It was confusing the way it was worded, I was in a hurry. Sorry for that.
I just seen that Innovate made a tailpipe clamp on bracket for the 02 sensor for a handheld reader. Didn't know how well it would work.
I just don't want to drill a hole in one of my headpipes.
Thanks for the replies.
 
Emissions exhaust sniffers use a long tube to try to go 2' up into the exhaust tip. So if you rigged up a long tube to stick up the exhaust, with a long tail on it that will stick 2' out the back of the car, it will work to some degree. OK for emissions work, but for engine tuning, it is a poor idea IMHO. The only thing on the clamp-on types, is to make sure it is 100% sealed to avoid atmospheric oxygen from mixing in.
 
Ok, it was a bad idea.
So if I take my car to a dyno shop I'll have to weld in a sensor in the headpipe to get accurate air fuel reading.
 
Do I have to drill both sides, or just one? Since I don't have headers, where do I drill the hole?
 
Well if you got two sensors you can do one on each side. But otherwise just one. You really want to drill it right at the collector or shortly after. You wanna get it where the exhaust is still good and hot. And you get readings from several cylinders. Like the one picture there shows, it's in the collector reducer where it's bolted to the headers. That's about perfect.

DO remember though, that you must ANGLE the sensor at a greater than 10* from horizontal. To prevent condensation from gathering on the tip and ruining your fancy sensor.
 
I'd put it a foot or 2 after the head pipe starts for stock manifolds. It could go sooner if you can get access.

Just IMHO, but the >10 degree down angle is not essential. Putting the bung well up on the side or up closer to the top if possible keeps it out of any condensate that would tend to collect on the bottom of the pipe.

Doing both sides is great but not essential. Just keep in mind that different cylinders vary in fuel air mixture at different RPM's and flows (carb openings). So one bank's AFR can be off a few 10th's of a point from the other, meaning don't push it to the limit rich or lean with just 1 sensor on a V engine.
 
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