08 6.1 low side 58 high side 300

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CudaJoe440

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Wifes not happy.Low side line is cold but dash vents are barely cool.Aux fan is functioning and condenser is clear.Cab filter is ok.Any suggestions? Too much oil?Is there an O tube? Whatta ya got?
 
I am terrible with a/c but it didn't stop me from removing my condenser this morn. I think there may be a valve that stops the flow of hot water to the heater core. If the cooled air passes through a warm core it will heat up again. You could clamp one of the heater hoses closed and see if this helps.
 
What has been done to the system?

If "too much oil" is on your list - how did it get there?

have you had any component failures?

Any "magic in a can" been added to the system?

Re-heating due to an active heater core is certainly a possibility...

B.
 
I recently purchased a 134 with oil and leak detection added and installed on a guess being as the compressor cycle was approximately 3 seconds.I have tools spread out over 3 locations and did not check the pressures initially.The low side line gets cold enough to touch to dictate what should be much colder air.My sons daytona cranks cold immediately(06)5.7He just deployed to a/stan so we have a back up ride.We live in south west Fl if that helps.Thank for the help.The compressor cycle seems normal now but I have been away from a/c work for 20+ years. I remember some
 
O K so she sat all night went out and checked for equalization it was close off about 7 lbs or so possible old gauge calibration syndrome.Fired it up and had decent temps.I think you guy's nailed it with the reheat call.Seemed like when the temp gauge read 217 or so she dropped off to heat so on we go to the heater control.My mopar family thanks you. Wife SRT super bee#770 Son Top banana Daytona Daughter 11 challenger Me 10 2500 HD Cummings not to mention 69 GTS # match and honorable mention 66 barracuda dana ladder 883 X block brodix headed lil ripper
 
You could have air contamination, I would drain the system, evacuate, add dye and fill to the proper weight of R134a.
 
Sorry Joe, forgot to look in on this for a couple of days.

It is difficult to diagnose a system without pressures. You mention "cycling", but that should only happen when the evaporator temperature is near freezing.

Get the gauges on it, and do a full load test:

Cabin fan on highest speed, doors open.

Engine rpm to 2000. Hold 2000 rpm for 2 minutes to stabilize, and record system pressures while @ 2000 rpm. Record ambient temperature during test, as well as vent temperature.

A system loaded like that should not cycle. If it does cycle, it may be cycling on the High pressure cut out or HPCO. This is a bad thing. Of course if it is undercharged it may cycle on the LPCO... Really need to see both pressures during the test.

Hopefully you purged the air from the charging hose you used to add the refrigerant. In this case, a little dye, oil & refrigerant will not do any harm. Adding 4 ounces of oil might, but most of those cans do not have a lot of oil. In the future, use only pure 134a.

B.
 
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