13 sec. 360 for $3,000?

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pittsburghracer said:
Do you nitrous guys really feel any pride and satisfaction from putting nitrous on a car to run 12’s or 13’s. I just don’t get it.
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I could imagine a guy that wants to keep car somewhat mild/streetable eg. 300-400 hp add 50-125 hp shot for the odd time he goes to the track.

There was guys at our local circle track that would spend super late model type money on building an entry level thunder car and win every race, didn't seem to bother them to take the easy route :)
 
273 said:
I could imagine a guy that wants to keep car somewhat mild/streetable eg. 300-400 hp add 50-125 hp shot for the odd time he goes to the track.

There was guys at our local circle track that would spend super late model type money on building an entry level thunder car and win every race, didn't seem to bother them to take the easy route :)
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Show me a guy that takes the easy route and I'll show you a guy that doesn't work on his own stuff. lol
If had to use nitrous to run 13's, 12's or even 11's I might as well put the wrenches away. lol
Wilrun318 proves my theory with his approach to things, he gets there on a tight budget and tuning.
Looking forward to follow him all the way to the 11's.
 
I'm neither for or against nitrous, if that how someone wants to build their car, It's all good.
Is it as impressive? not really, but I'd rather see someone build a 10's nitrous car than someone just buy a 10's NA car.

As for 318willrun, those are the type of builds I like, getting a lot from so little, would it be as interesting if he just threw a bottle on a stock 2bbl 318 and called it a day, no. Would I be terribly upset if he added a bottle runs along with his NA mods runs, not really.
 
pittsburghracer said:
You know as you have been around long enough the right combo of non race parts can go pretty fast. I sold a Very nice 340 machined ready to go, diamond pistons, Scat rods, and what made me sell the combo was a cast scat crank. Rings cam and everything was included balanced ready to go. I knew with a good set of heads it would be low 10’s high 9’s and I wouldn’t be comfortable with that crank. It’s so nice that we have the parts available at the right price (used)
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Yes, im just a bit gunshy on how a high geared, higher stalled, possibly lower compression combo would behave. Even though its a cruiser first, it will see the strip at some point.
 
HankRearden said:
Surprisingly super easy. Easier than an a body and they are easy. Modify the k member just like an a body or use conversion mounts. B body headers fit. But you have a point on the AC I don't know what compressor mounting looks like for that swap. You would need a big block patter 727 also.
Not trying to push you. Just a thought. By all means run what you have to work with.
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Actually, push me! Lol. I was originally looking looking at a 440 swapped volare local to me, but it was just too rotted for me, so I passed. But the thought of a 500"+ stroker n/a for the family cruiser gets me excited like hell. Maybe ill ditch the a/c....dammit...lol
 
pittsburghracer said:
Do you nitrous guys really feel any pride and satisfaction from putting nitrous on a car to run 12’s or 13’s. I just don’t get it.
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fishmens67 said:
Show me a guy that takes the easy route and I'll show you a guy that doesn't work on his own stuff. lol
If had to use nitrous to run 13's, 12's or even 11's I might as well put the wrenches away. lol
Wilrun318 proves my theory with his approach to things, he gets there on a tight budget and tuning.
Looking forward to follow him all the way to the 11's.
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I see nothing has changed in this place with the hate for nitrous. It always humours me that mopar guys will **** on others for going fast using power adders (not that 12s is fast, but i think you get it). Like who gives a rats ***? Time to come out of the dinosaur years. If i could take a low 13 second car and spray it into the bottom 11s, thats actually pretty damn awesome, and it also debunks the "well nitrous is cheating and easy" arguments since those same people usually are the ones who claim it hurts parts, which clearly means maybe you have to know what your doing with it like anything else?

Horsepower is horsepower, whether its in a bolt, driven by a belt, or straight nuts..seriously...i love it all. If it was up to me id have a car with every type of engine combo because they are so damn cool in their own ways.
 
mshred said:
Actually, push me! Lol. I was originally looking looking at a 440 swapped volare local to me, but it was just too rotted for me, so I passed. But the thought of a 500"+ stroker n/a for the family cruiser gets me excited like hell. Maybe ill ditch the a/c....dammit...lol
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There is no reason you cant run the AC. I did a 440 in a 74 dart ac car. I never got the ac finished because I didnt have all the small block ac parts and had to seel when I had a kid. But mounting the later sanden compressors isnt that hard. It is the big old ones ,I think York, that look like a v style engine that take a lot of space. Basically an F body fits like a b body but no torsion bars in the way.
Now my Bigger Ac blower motor hit my MT valve covers.so I custom made a blower motor from a fan motor,some aluminum and a universal squirrel cage. All because the MT valve covers were way too cool to replace with factory tins.

If I ever get a hold of one of those f body wags that isn't junk it will be a 440 for sure.

I wonder if the old cross rams would fit?
 
HankRearden said:
There is no reason you cant run the AC. I did a 440 in a 74 dart ac car. I never got the ac finished because I didnt have all the small block ac parts and had to seel when I had a kid. But mounting the later sanden compressors isnt that hard. It is the big old ones ,I think York, that look like a v style engine that take a lot of space. Basically an F body fits like a b body but no torsion bars in the way.
Now my Bigger Ac blower motor hit my MT valve covers.so I custom made a blower motor from a fan motor,some aluminum and a universal squirrel cage. All because the MT valve covers were way too cool to replace with factory tins.

If I ever get a hold of one of those f body wags that isn't junk it will be a 440 for sure.

I wonder if the old cross rams would fit?
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Yea I think I'd go low deck, as this wagon I went to look at had no blower motor, and I need something that has full heat at the very least. I dont even know if the factory valve covers would clear to be honest.

I also have a host of small block stuff, which makes it easier to work with when on a budget tight as mine is. But BB is not out of the question yet...you replanted that seed for me lol
 
mshred said:
I see nothing has changed in this place with the hate for nitrous. It always humours me that mopar guys will **** on others for going fast using power adders (not that 12s is fast, but i think you get it). Like who gives a rats ***? Time to come out of the dinosaur years. If i could take a low 13 second car and spray it into the bottom 11s, thats actually pretty damn awesome, and it also debunks the "well nitrous is cheating and easy" arguments since those same people usually are the ones who claim it hurts parts, which clearly means maybe you have to know what your doing with it like anything else?

Horsepower is horsepower, whether its in a bolt, driven by a belt, or straight nuts..seriously...i love it all. If it was up to me id have a car with every type of engine combo because they are so damn cool in their own ways.
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There you go taking my post wrong again. As I’ve said earlier 12-13 second engines are fun and easy to build with budget minded parts available almost everyday. Build and have fun building it and then like you said spray it into the 11’s on those I gotta go faster days.
 
pittsburghracer said:
There you go taking my post wrong again. As I’ve said earlier 12-13 second engines are fun and easy to build with budget minded parts available almost everyday. Build and have fun building it and then like you said spray it into the 11’s on those I gotta go faster days.
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Wrong again? I havent been here in years man lol.

Im not mad either John, im just stating who gives a rats *** how people get to their goal. Atleast where im at, I just respect anyone trying to go fast, regardless of how. Its a dying hobby around these parts these days, so even the odd kid in a civic with a fartpipe gets thumbs up from me now.
 
mshred said:
Yea I think I'd go low deck, as this wagon I went to look at had no blower motor, and I need something that has full heat at the very least. I dont even know if the factory valve covers would clear to be honest.

I also have a host of small block stuff, which makes it easier to work with when on a budget tight as mine is. But BB is not out of the question yet...you replanted that seed for me lol
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Basically if you want the powerband to be static (no real rpm increase) idle-4500/5000+ rpms the only main NA way to increase power is increasing tq by increasing displacement. Plus a 440 with 2.94 gears will put similar tq to the ground as 360 with 3.55, or a 360 with 2.94 would be like 298 cid with 3.55.
 
mshred said:
Wrong again? I havent been here in years man lol.

Im not mad either John, im just stating who gives a rats *** how people get to their goal. Atleast where im at, I just respect anyone trying to go fast, regardless of how. Its a dying hobby around these parts these days, so even the odd kid in a civic with a fartpipe gets thumbs up from me now.
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By the way nice seeing you back.
 
mshred said:
Vehicle in question. Unfortunately, not as light as an a-body, and hence probably atleast a few tenths slower then every combo posted here so far. Low 13s is the goal, anything better is extra!

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Dont be misled like i was. 70 to 72 A bodys are weight friendly. I was very disappointed when my 73 rolled over the scales. 3480 without me and less than 1/2 tank of gas. You also lose around 100 hp through the drivetrain as well. Going to need well over 500 hp to get in the 13s and beyond
 
Howard1784 said:
Dont be misled like i was. 70 to 72 A bodys are weight friendly. I was very disappointed when my 73 rolled over the scales. 3480 without me and less than 1/2 tank of gas. You also lose around 100 hp through the drivetrain as well. Going to need well over 500 hp to get in the 13s and beyond
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Need 500 hp to run 13's? nah
500 hp at the crank should run with a decent chassis mid 11's or lower @ 3600lbs
 
fishmens67 said:
Sumting wroong
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Agree.
I went from low 14s to low 13s with same engine, car, trans, tires, and driver. On a chassis dyno the hp before changes was around 275 - you can spitball estimate what you'ld like for the engine hp from that. 727 torquflite with 3.23 rear and 215/70r14 street tires.
Changes were exhaust and timing.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Do you nitrous guys really feel any pride and satisfaction from putting nitrous on a car to run 12’s or 13’s. I just don’t get it.
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Yes, I think it's great when someone (especially a young guy/girl) takes a stock engine/high geared daily type beater that runs 14's and for less than a grand sprays it into the 12s. Then they close the bottle and drive off down the road lol.
 
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According to a calculator youd only need 323hp to run a 13.00 and the tires, suspension and chassis to make it do said 13.00.
That sounds awfully simple out of a 360.
You could probably copy the old crate engines goodies.
I assume you could do up your heads to gain some airflow, maybe for fun since you want stock bore and compression, throw in a set of gas ported rings. Too bad you want to keep it 3600 pounds that kinda is heavy.
 
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