14.45 with 12 sec combo... HELP

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sledger46 said:
How old are the tires. When slicks get old the sidewalls breakdown and affect the handling. I would look for a set of drag radials. Do NOT put the biggest tire you can fit on your car. Bigger tires add more rotational weight and more drag. The result will be you will go even slower.

On my 67 Dart a 255 radial fits nicely with the correct offset wheel. In reality the car would be .1 seconds faster with a 235 due to the reduced rotational weight.
Click to expand...

YES... but the top speed on the 26s is lees than 28s, an the rpm increases, because i have 3.91
 
sledger46 said:
How old are the tires. When slicks get old the sidewalls breakdown and affect the handling. I would look for a set of drag radials. Do NOT put the biggest tire you can fit on your car. Bigger tires add more rotational weight and more drag. The result will be you will go even slower.

On my 67 Dart a 255 radial fits nicely with the correct offset wheel. In reality the car would be .1 seconds faster with a 235 due to the reduced rotational weight.
Click to expand...

all we have here is an et and a questionable tuned car and your making tire size recommendations? Without a 60ft time or top 1/4 mile speed ? And if crackedback can make (nearly) this same combo do an 11.7? I've got so much to learn! :-k
 
puas said:
YES... but the top speed on the 26s is lees than 28s, an the rpm increases, because i have 3.91
Click to expand...

Stop focusing on stuff that doesn't matter.

It's already banging against the limiter that is set too low.

TIRE HEIGHT IS NOT THE PROBLEM!

Too little air, yes!
Too low rpm chip, yes!
Initial timing sucks as it's set WAY too low, yes!
Total timing WAY too low, yes!

Total timing a a car that is driven on the street is a HORRIBLE method. Even drag cars should not be timed strictly on a total timing basis. Initial timing makes a HUGE difference in the way a car runs, especially one with a tight or lower RPM converter.

All real simple to correct and cost almost nothing!

Puas, make a list of the things you want to change, most important to least important and post it up.
 
crackedback said:
Stop focusing on stuff that doesn't matter.

It's already banging against the limiter that is set too low.

TIRE HEIGHT IS NOT THE PROBLEM!

Too little air, yes!
Too low rpm chip, yes!
Initial timing sucks as it's set WAY too low, yes!
Total timing WAY too low, yes!

Total timing a a car that is driven on the street is a HORRIBLE method. Even drag cars should not be timed strictly on a total timing basis. Initial timing makes a HUGE difference in the way a car runs, especially one with a tight or lower RPM converter.

All real simple to correct and cost almost nothing!

Puas, make a list of the things you want to change, most important to least important and post it up.
Click to expand...

my time was in a professional track... but a car hit the laser sensors and broke the system.. then only have a ET.....

my list of changes


new mechanical advance distribuitor... or recurve the same
limitter om more RPM
a new intake... i take off yesterday an sold it (maybe a new chinesse procomp and porting )
check the carb
in the future a new cam is possible or a 1.6 rockers... (after new tests on track)
in the future a new converter...
 
100 miles in my engine and will make changes :eek: :) its only race :)
 
Do you happen to have radial tires up front and bias slicks on the rear. That may cause swaying issues no matter the air pressure.
 
Recurving a distributor isn't rocket science and doesn't take long. Don't overthink it! Do as others keep saying. Pull out that rev limiter, bolt on a decent intake, recurve that distributor and get out to the track.
 
mopowers said:
Recurving a distributor isn't rocket science and doesn't take long. Don't overthink it! Do as others keep saying. Pull out that rev limiter, bolt on a decent intake, recurve that distributor and get out to the track.
Click to expand...

what are the "best" timing?? initial and finel... the kb107 pistons are good with more than 35??
 
Advance the idle timing until you find the point the engine kicks back on the starter when hot for initial. In your case, I would back off 3-4 degrees from that point.

Take that number and subtract from 36, set mechanical to get there. Get a pair of mr gasket 925b springs. Install one light stock spring and one mrg spring.

You might have to do the mechanical advance a couple times to get it spot on. Even if you are a degree or two off initial, that's going to be MUCH better than where you are now.

Bronze tower
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=66895

Cast colored
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/mopp-0301-mopar-electronic-ignition-system/

Simple to do, cast tower takes a bit longer.
 
sledger46 said:
How old are the tires. When slicks get old the sidewalls breakdown and affect the handling. I would look for a set of drag radials. Do NOT put the biggest tire you can fit on your car. Bigger tires add more rotational weight and more drag. The result will be you will go even slower.

On my 67 Dart a 255 radial fits nicely with the correct offset wheel. In reality the car would be .1 seconds faster with a 235 due to the reduced rotational weight.
Click to expand...

that is true...but if the track is crappy....bigger tires sure help getting it hooked..
 
zac_F71 said:
This and this.. I had a ebay air gap on my 83 Mustang 302 and had to heavily port it, in the plenum (right under the carb) and in each port - car made 300whp though so they can work..
Click to expand...

and stock is so bad?
 
you could try running it stock, the one I had - had casting flash in the runners, and a very small/restrictive plenum..

If you have a cordless drill - I used that and a carbide burr but a grinding stone would do the same I'm sure, not hard to do if you take your time and don't be aggressive - just take the gaskets and trace the runners with a marker, and you'll see how much can come out of them/ how restrictive they are

Here is pics of my ebay 302 ford air gap intake before porting -



 
zac_F71 said:
you could try running it stock, the one I had - had casting flash in the runners, and a very small/restrictive plenum..

If you have a cordless drill - I used that and a carbide burr but a grinding stone would do the same I'm sure, not hard to do if you take your time and don't be aggressive - just take the gaskets and trace the runners with a marker, and you'll see how much can come out of them/ how restrictive they are

Here is pics of my ebay 302 ford air gap intake before porting -



Click to expand...

good... restrictive ports, but can be ported
 
puas said:
If i stay in 12 or high initial, my final advance up more than 38... i need to recurve my distribuidor or a new maybe
Click to expand...

No, if you bump it to 10 initial (from 5/32) you get 10/37.

Try it and get back to us.
 
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