Torrington B-1812 (do not get the metric japanese bearing that uses the same number, ie buy in USA not Japan or Europe) is the drawn cup needle roller used in a standard needle bearing box
one in the top cover
one at the top of the sector tunnel
one at the bottom of the sector tunnel
You can if you wish put a B-1816 at the bottom of the sector tunnel Its a longer needle bearing.
you probably could at the top also, i've just never tried it.. makes the box more Heavy duty
they are about $12 - $16 each
you can, if you are not careful, knock all of the needles out and loose them...
to replace one in a top cover
unwind the top cover off the adjuster stud
get a small 1/8 inch socket extension pass it through the adjuster hole so that the end of it that usually goes onto the ratchet bares on the end of the needle roller bearing cup
mount cover in vice between 2 pieces of card or ally or balance on top of open jaws with space fo bearing to come out. and slowly tap tap tap around the rim of the bearing. it will, after some sweat on the brow come out. Other option is to put grub screw in adjuster hole fill the bearing with grease and use a wooden mallet to force bearing out by hydraulic action, using the sector as your perfectly fitting punch. i.e the blind hole method you might use to remove crank shaft spigot bushing
whack in you new one with a block of wood and the cover sitting on a sand bag or soft wood bench. never tired it but you could draw it in using the sector shaft and the adjuster bolt... i just use the caveman technique.
The bearings for the worm are ball bearings in cone shaped cages
Chrysler part 2072060 or 2127097
Oh look here
NOS Mopar 1960-1963 Valiant ,Lancer steering gear worm thrust bearing | eBay
if the cages are good you can of course just buy new balls. these appear to be the same as saginaw bearings... i.e ebay full of them for other brands
i have never had to change the cup. just the cone bearings. If the cage is all smashed up, it will probably be the top one, and the steering box was potentially used on the street in a car with a UJ rather than the standard slip joint/pot coupler/Rag joint steering shaft. Or the car it came from was a wheel stander at the track, or made an unscheduled visit to the curb at some point. for the bottom one to be smashed the big hex ring would need to come undone and the adjuster plug/steering box head come undone a long way.
you would expect the formula S box to be 24:1 or (few) 16:1 and a needle roller box due to its v8 engine. The bushed boxes i believe were used on slant 6 cars.
most seemed to go for power box instead, fancy GT type car, fancy steering
Dave
