1964 brake help

[1964MorePar]

Hello folks, new member here and new Dart owner. Recently picked up a ‘64 dart 270 4 door to cruise around with the family and am looking for some brake advice.

Driving the car the other day my front drivers outer wheel bearing failed and basically heat welded itself onto the spindle. I was able to pull the drum off with a puller but this left the hub/ stud center section still locked onto the spindle. Had to pull that section separately and then use a cutoff wheel to remove the stuck wheel bearing.

Looking for advice on how to proceed. Spindle has some wear but I’m thinking is good enough to send. I can catch my nail on some of the imperfections but it’s not really deeper than that. This is a slant 6 auto car that will just put around no spirited driving.

Second, the center hub section is fine and with a new race will be good to go. Can I simply put my drum back on over the studs with all new bearings and races and run it? The swagged studs pulled through like I said but with a tiny bit of dremel work I think it should all sit flat again with the wheel studs torquing it down.

Looking online replacement drums are sold as drum only with no center hub section anyway. Disc brakes are obviously the way to go but not in the cards just yet.

Thanks for any advice or tips, new to the mopar scene but have been playing with chevys for a while now, cheers!

 

[junkyardhero]

i personally wouldn't run on a spindle that's been blued from heat like that, especially in that critical area.

 

[340six]

i personally wouldn't run on a spindle that's been blued from heat like that, especially in that critical area.

Agree.

 

[RustyRatRod]

You really should read instructions or jump on a forum and ASK, before you arbitrarily start working on things when you don't know what's going on. ...and I say that with all the Mopar brotherly love possible.

Look at the stud holes in that drum. You see how they're mushroomed to the inside? That's because the drums are swedged onto the hub at the factory by a machine that mashes the outsides of the studs down against the drum, essentially making the drums and hubs one piece.

The proper procedure for removing the drums from the hubs is to remove the swedges from the wheel studs FIRST and the nine out of ten times, the drum will slide right off. I use a 5/8" metal cutting hole saw around the studs and drill completely THROUGH the drum and just scratch the surface of the hub.

This hurts nothing, as the only reason for the swedges was to hold the drums on going down the assembly line. You can simply refit the drum to the hub when you are done with repairs as it centers on the center hub and not the wheel studs. The drum is trapped by the wheel when the lug nuts are tightened up, so it has nowhere to go. You will need a new drum at the very least and I agree with @junkyardhero about replacing that spindle as well. Hop over to mymopar.com and download a factory service manual for your car. It's a free download and might just help avoid these kind of mistakes in the future.

Look at the stud holes in your drum. That drum is now officially ruined. If that's the 9" setup, I likely have the parts to repair it.

 

[1964MorePar]

Thanks for the quick replies guys, I will replace the drum in that case and look into finding a better spindle. My intention with the puller was to pull the whole assembly, didn’t know the stuck bearing would have a better hold than the Swedged connection.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks for the quick replies guys, I will replace the drum in that case and look into finding a better spindle. My intention with the puller was to pull the whole assembly, didn’t know the stuck bearing would have a better hold than the Swedged connection.

This is the type puller that would do the job. That's a good deal on it, too. I've used the one I have to separate rear axle flanges from tapered axles on early B bodies. That's a bigger beeotch than what you did and it still got them off. lol
HUB PULLER

 

[moparlvr166]

Sent you a message, I'm local to you and have the parts you need that I removed from a 64 Dart.