1964 Valiant

-
ConValiant64

ConValiant64

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
247
Reaction score
49
Location
Brigantine, NJ
Can anyone tell me where I can find replacement side view mirror glass (4 1/4'' round), and a three or four core radiator for my '64 Valiant?
 
The mirror glass- Glass shop will cut it or ebay.
If you want a factory style radiator, a real radiator shop will take yours cut it all up and IF your tanks are the right kind can install a larger tube core for you.
Other than that you have to go aluminum possibly custom made. My 66' ive owned both, both expensive to repair and expensive to buy due to the low hood I believe.
 
Syleng1 said:
The mirror glass- Glass shop will cut it or ebay.
If you want a factory style radiator, a real radiator shop will take yours cut it all up and IF your tanks are the right kind can install a larger tube core for you.
Other than that you have to go aluminum possibly custom made. My 66' ive owned both, both expensive to repair and expensive to buy due to the low hood I believe.
Click to expand...
Thanks. What about door locks?
 
ConValiant64 said:
Can anyone tell me where I can find replacement side view mirror glass (4 1/4'' round), and a three or four core radiator for my '64 Valiant?
Click to expand...
If you are looking for used parts you might want to start a wanted thread. There's lots of people that have early A's that can help. I have gotten some real nice pieces that way.
 
I had a glass shop cut me a stack and if I knew where they are I would send you one.We have moved three times since then
and well, you know.......lol
 
there is a few guys in mopar parts vehicles that have early a parts cars, they probably have what you need.
 
The door locks for the 1966 and newer Mopars are super cheap and available brand new, but you have to trim your door lock holes to make them work and that means you can't go back to the old locks if you find a good set. I did that to mine back in the 90s when I couldn't find ones to replace my rusted out ones. No one has yet to notice I'm not using the bigger old locks.
 
After 2 rows in a radiator, the cooling effect is much diminished. A third row does NOT increase the cooling by 50% over a 2 row. Also you need to check fan clearance.
 
KosmicKuda said:
After 2 rows in a radiator, the cooling effect is much diminished. A third row does NOT increase the cooling by 50% over a 2 row. Also you need to check fan clearance.
Click to expand...

The real issue with 3 and 4 row radiators is with out the fan shroud; a open fan cannot pull enough air flow on its own. The air it grabs is from the edge of the fan and it by passes the radiator all together.
If you use an open fan- go with a long tube radiator and 2 cores if available. Long tubes are wider than the standard radiator and give larger cooling area to dissipate heat or just use a fan shroud. An electric push fan on the front helps a lot at stop lights and the cars movement forward pushes the air thru while driving.
Hope that makes sense to you.
Joe
 
Syleng1 said:
The real issue with 3 and 4 row radiators is with out the fan shroud; a open fan cannot pull enough air flow on its own. The air it grabs is from the edge of the fan and it by passes the radiator all together.
If you use an open fan- go with a long tube radiator and 2 cores if available. Long tubes are wider than the standard radiator and give larger cooling area to dissipate heat or just use a fan shroud. An electric push fan on the front helps a lot at stop lights and the cars movement forward pushes the air thru while driving.
Hope that makes sense to you.
Joe
Click to expand...
Makes perfect sense. Thanks. Any idea where I can find either an original or repro shroud? Car came without.
 
I recently had the brass/copper radiator in a '60 Valiant rebuilt with a high density core, where vertical tubes in core are on 3/8" centers instead of the OEM 1/2" centers. With the original round top radiator tanks it is difficult to go from two to three rows of cores. It can be done but difficult to find the talented (and willing) person to do it. Rebuilding the original radiator with a two row high density core was almost twice the cost of the typical aluminum replacement radiators out there. Also, rebuilding the original was dependent on the tanks being judged "good" by radiator shop. Decades of thermal cycling and repairs can make them unusable. In the end it comes down to originality vs. cost I guess. On aluminum radiators for SL6 cars, often the lower hose barb comes straight out instead of being angled like the original creating a potential hose/clearance issue. It's been a while since I installed one of these so maybe by now complaints have made manufacturers fix this.
 
Last edited:
I would go with an aluminum radiator, since they cool better and don't cost much more (many posts). Which one depends on the engine which you didn't tell us. If a slant, don't get one with a thick core or the fan won't fit.
 
valiantpatrol said:
I recently had the brass/copper radiator in a '60 Valiant rebuilt with a high density core, where vertical tubes in core are on 3/8" centers instead of the OEM 1/2" centers. With the original round top radiator tanks it is difficult to go from two to three rows of cores. It can be done but difficult to find the talented (and willing) person to do it. Rebuilding the original radiator with a two row high density core was almost twice the cost of the typical aluminum replacement radiators out there. Also, rebuilding the original was dependent on the tanks being judged "good" by radiator shop. Decades of thermal cycling and repairs can make the unusable. In the end it comes down to originality vs. cost I guess. On aluminum radiators for SL6 cars, often the lower hose barb comes straight out instead of being angled like the original creating a potential hose/clearance issue. It's been a while since I installed one of these so maybe by now complaints have made manufacturers fix this.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top