1965 Dodge Dart 270 2 dr sedan

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Finally the transmission showed up and after a good cleaning it was time to mount it against the engine.
Tomorrow I will try to take off the upper control arms and bolt the engine/tranny to the body.
If just the intake would show up!

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Restore a starter without making it look restored was a challenge. Now it's tested and in place. Time to take of the upper control arms. Those cams should be like a walk in the park or.....!

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After the assembly of the starter and the surrounding brackets I was able to raise the body and put under the engine/tranny/front end to get it bolted to the body.
Man it feels great to have it back together. Now I need to continue with all the small parts.
After checking out the steering coupler I found out that it's tight and I mean tight!
FABO members that has Spitfire headers how did you pass the torsion bar on the left side? It looks like the pipe hits the torsion bar exact in the middle! Any leads is very much appriciated.
I also found out that I'l looking for some odds and ends.
- Oil filter relocating plate
- Accelerator wire
- Lower pulley single
- Both shifter cables
I was able to take off the two upper control arms in 60 minutes and that's a record big time!!

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I can't answer your question on the coupler or torsion bar as I never got that far. On the filter adapter. Are you going to use the factory right angle adapter or the remote adapter? I should have one of each style. On the throttle cable, I would probably wait until you have the intake and carbs installed as I suspect you may need a custom length cable. I have a matched set of water pump and crank pulleys, but they are still installed on the 273 in my Barracuda. I will be converting the new motor over to a multi belt system as I will be adding aftermarket AC. Cannot help on the transmission cables
 
Today I recieved a package with some great items from my friend Don, 65 dartman. The gear shift selector with an NOS handle and the clutch for the a/c unit on my convertible. But thanks to Don I was able to do the last assembly on the steering column. It looks brand new.
Yesterday I was able to pick up a set of 10 inch front brake drums. Will be great when they are cleaned.
I also got a package from Lee Robinson with the kick-down linkage. Perfect 50 year old look on it too!

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Is that the original paint on the steering column? Looks good!
 
Looking good, Ulf!

Hey, I met the guy you bought the 273 from in Åsa today! I bought a mini starter from him. It's a small community here in Sweden. :)
 
Tonight we started to add the steering column. But we had some serious problems. When mounting the column it seems that the rubber selector boot is in the way for the header pipe #7. When comparing with factory 3 on the tree the steering pipe is shorter on 3 on the tree but instead the automatic has the steering selector boot in the way.
I went out and checked my wagon with auto on the column. It's tight but it's there. Can Spitfire headers been made for floor automatics or manual transmission only? Or do I need to adjust the brake pedel or making the hole in the firewall bigger. It feels like something is in the way to correct the column too. The transmission scale is leaning to the right!!

Any experience out there?

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After help from my son Kevin I was able to get everything in place. But I suspect the rubbor boot to melt down. I might be able to pull the steering column upwards a little bit. But it's tight!

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I think it's possible to get the rubber boot cover about 3/4 inch closer to the fire wall. Then it will clear the headerpipe. Thanks for the idea!

It seems like two three answers disappear!

I called the printing company today. Ramchargers had red lettering with black shadow. I think red lettering with white lettering will look better. But it will not read RAMCHARGERS.......... Instead it will read DARTCHARGERS. I'll get the prototype on Friday

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There were several other replies but they are gone. One of them was about slotting the floor plate to the left; can't remember the other!
 
I took off the steering column today due to lack of space. I will make the center section 3/4' longer to give space between the rubber boot and the header pipe.
I was also able to mount the radiator. Looks like the car has never been touched!!
Progress to come.......

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In Vegas in March I was able to buy a viscko fan for a/c cars. But when mounting it it does not fit.
Is there differencies between small block and big block pulley, fan and waterpump? I was pretty sure they were the same!!

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I grind up the holes and mounted the fan on the pump and pulley and tightened the correct bolts. Look's like stock!!
My friend Johan made the center piece for the steering column 3/4' longer. When I tighted the bolts it is 7/16' between the header pipe and the rubber boot. Thanks for the tips!
Tomorrow the kick-down linage will be added. Hopefully the intake is here soon from Keith. Need to figure out how to make the accelerator linkage like they did 50 years ago.

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Today I did some great progress on the csr. I recieved the brake cylinders for the rrar wheels so I was able to mount the brake parts on the right side. Found out I miss the emergency brake arm and the lever that goes between the brake shoes.

I also got hold of a Holley electric fuel pump. It was stuck but after some massage it was like new again.

The question is; - Should I mount the fuel pump close to the tank or inside the engine compartment? This is first time I'm working with electric fuel pumps!!

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Back in Time said:
Mount it as close as possible to the tank.Electric fuel pumps push better than they pull.
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Thanks for the reply! Will fabricate a plate with rubber cushions for vibration purposes.

Today I got the text for the decal. Looks exactly how I wanted! Yes!!!!

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