1966 Disc Brake Conversion Questions

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You don't need new upper control arms if you use a set of ball joint adaptors from Dr. Diff, which I included in my total. Can order them here


And I'd be surprised if there wasn't a F/J/M body in a lot near you, 5th ave's, diplomat's etc had the right spindles all the way up to '89. And they add less than a 1/4" per side to the track width. If you're stuffing lots of tire under there, I'm just guessing that you're also running 17's or 18's, and the extra track width will be easily made up by the backspace that comes on most of those rims.

But its your choice. I run the later 11.75" Mopar disks on all my cars, they work great, and parts are readily available. Now that you can buy the 11.75" caliper brackets, its a super easy swap.
 

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As you state it is a personal choice and whatever makes one happy! But I will say one last thing you put your time money and love into your hot rod, Mopar, antique restoration! To have the motor run hot and go fast is one thing not so hard, but to make the old baby stop is another, on todays roads, with todays drivers, it is reality to be able to stop on a dime! If the car can go zero to sixty quick it needs to stop just as quick! So spending a little more on a good kit to make it stop right is what it takes I will do it every time! Again it is my opinion! I had my 66 cuda munched by a fool pulling out of his driveway on my way home from Great Lakes Dragway one rainy Sunday afternoon, minding my own business going slow, he creamed my baby! I will never forget it and never do anything to allow another fool to hit me again, or not spend a lttle more to make sure my end is top of the line! It is simple to be safe on todays roads, not simple to protect oneself from fools on todays roads!!!! See them everyday!!! JMO again!

65CudaLover Go Fast Stop Fast!!! Mopar or No Car!!!


I respect that you want to put a kit into your cuda's. no problem there

what I don't understand is your thinking that if you "Don't put a kit that ready made it's just not going to stop as good as your kit or be quality parts". that I don't understand at all. kits are a collection of parts that someone took time to put together and charge a premium for to pay for their work,good for them and good for the person that buys it, but that doesn't mean that it's better than an assembled setup like scarebirds. it just means that someones already done his homework for you and you trust him to sell you a kit that works. sometimes that's good sometimes it's not.
I used good quality parts in my setup and that makes it just as good "quality" at the kits PLUS I can change up the master cylinder to a larger or smaller bore to change the feel of the pedal. same with rear wheel cylinders. add or subtract power booster ect. can't do that in a kit can ya?
I can (and have) take a scarebird setup that's on a hi performance B body and jump all over the "loud" pedal to get to 100+ miles and hour and step on the Brake pedal and haul that car to a dead stop." on a dime" and more than once.
it stopped just as good as I can in any one of my new cars,and a heck of a lot better than the wildwood kit that was purchased to slow the car down originally. (that was due to a overly large master cylinder that came in the kit and cheaply cast rotors) they since have changed the master cylinder to a 15/16th bore to my understanding.

again the pst kits are almost the SAME as any other kit and as the scarebird setup. look at the pictures. sure the circles are cut differently and the shape of the adapter is slightly different. but it still uses an adapter plate to connect the calipers and line them up to a rotor. I have a "used" wildwood kit that needs rotors for a b body that just sitting at my friends house that is just the same as your top of the line P-S-T kit and if you set the scarebird kit Right next to that it'll look the same or similar. it uses new parts which are easily obtainable and works. and no I don't need huge brake rotors for the cars I drive. yeah I probably could have put in a 11 3/4 rotor but for what? I have a 3500lbs new car that has 10 inch rotors and will stop the car on a dime, and I got the 11 inchers in the dart. should stop it on a dime just as well. and I know that they stop the 65 b body as well or better than my 2007 caliber when it was new or even now.



as for the dr diff stuff it's just an added cost I'd have to get
sleeves to work with the 9 inch BJ
spindles for the later car. (used)
caliper brackets (used)
and then I'd have to order the stuff that I already have. rotors calipers pads master cylinder. new hoses.
not a bargain for me.

I really looked into this setup and I did want to go to the later model mopar stuff. but the yards around me that I can walk through just don't have a good selection of F/M/J cars and if they do the parts are already gone.
yeah I could have gone to a we-pullit yard but my experience with that type of yard is bad. it cost to much for a part(example of a side window for a car was u pullit 25.00 with regulator mounts, we- pullit 's price was 85.00 with no mount) and you don't have any say as to if you get the bolts with it and if you do they want more money for that!

I did find a we pullit yard that did have it for 275.00 for the whole shot but I had to buy it all . rotores calipers UCA's and spindles. it did not include a proportioning valve in the deal that was another 25. so 300 bucks and then I'd need to replace all the rotors,calipers and hoses anyway.
again not a deal to me.
 
What about with Rallyes? I have 5x4" :)
you mean like these? I'm running the newer style of the scarebird conversion that fit's either 9" or 10" spindles
and they are 14" rims (don't know howe wide they are though) BBP I'm thinking that the only difference is in the BBP/SBP spacing but someone on here must be better versed in the differences between BBP vs SBP rallies rims. and if there is a width difference between them
View attachment DSCF3646.jpg
it somes with the adapters and spacer ring to center the rotor.(spacer not shown) you get to buy rotors ,calipers/pads, hoses and the choice of master cylinder at your local auto parts store.
View attachment DSCF2792.jpg
here it is with the drum removed by drilling the back of the studs off and driving it through to the front "saving the drum for someone else" if they want it.
View attachment DSCF2791.jpg
here it is mocked up for the fit to see how things worked and to see if any clearancing needed to be done. 1 side did have to be filed down to clear the adapter..
View attachment DSCF2788.jpg
this is the point where you have to make up your mind if you want to go BBP or stay SBP ( drill BBP and do it once. do it SBP and you'll have to drill the rotors each time you replace them)
and no the spacer isn't in it yet since I have not drilled them in this picture
 
I bought my 67 calipers for my 65, spindles and rotors for $200 used at a Mopar swap, new pads at $15 and a dual M/C for another 16. Drilled out original LBJ's to 9/16 and Im set. Its all Mopar (supplied) and the parts are available, just ask for 67 Dart parts. $250 tops and I still have SBP's all the way around. Just start looking..its out there.
 
You don't need new upper control arms if you use a set of ball joint adaptors from Dr. Diff, which I included in my total. Can order them here


And I'd be surprised if there wasn't a F/J/M body in a lot near you, 5th ave's, diplomat's etc had the right spindles all the way up to '89. And they add less than a 1/4" per side to the track width. If you're stuffing lots of tire under there, I'm just guessing that you're also running 17's or 18's, and the extra track width will be easily made up by the backspace that comes on most of those rims.

But its your choice. I run the later 11.75" Mopar disks on all my cars, they work great, and parts are readily available. Now that you can buy the 11.75" caliper brackets, its a super easy swap.


ther are not to many yards in the area I 'm at that even have F/M/J bodies. the scrapping frenzy to care of that, most of the walk thru yards have only late models FWD card and mostly imports or trucks and SUV's at that. yeah you can find a few here and there if your lucky, but I'm stuck in chevy and mercede's country down here in north central florida. it sucks! I usually go up to Michigan in the summer to work on finishing up a show car or 2 for my friend (trailer queens but still mopars) and hit the yards up there. that's where I got my seats at for 25.00 per seat with electronic's(again late model) if I happen to see a set in the yards up there be sure that I will get them for a good price and use them on the wife's dart since she's getting the good 15" rallies on here car.
 
see the following location for a full summary of the available wheels & which models featured the 14 x 5.5 wide rims that are needed for the Scarebird installation:
www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/wheels/1.html

Yes the 14 inch ralleyes are 5.5 wide & explain why those who used the ralleyes didn't come across the wheel rubbing on the caliper problem.

You don't need ralleyes to get 5.5 wide......5.5 wide regular wheels were used on some models in the 70's ...but not all!!!

Just make sure whatever wheels you use have the correct inside diameter and rest on the hub......not on the wheel lugs!!

I've done two installations of the Scarebird package and the ease of installing plus finding reasonably priced replacement parts at you local NAPA or whatever look like positives.....There is about 25k on each of the installations with no problems or replacement parts needed yet.

ps: you might find replacement 15/16 inch dia bore dual master cylinder that came on a 72 Demon with drum/disc comb to work nicely without a porportioning valve.....did for me on my 65 Darts.
 
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