1966 Driveshaft - Which End is Front?

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where did the shaft come from? I have never seen a 66 driveshaft with the torsional rubber in it. ?

I think the parts car that driveshaft came with was a slant 6? Could it be that the rubber drive shafts were not used on V-8's? Will that monster 273 I'm building tear that thing apart? LOL
 
I think the parts car that driveshaft came with was a slant 6? Could it be that the rubber drive shafts were not used on V-8's? Will that monster 273 I'm building tear that thing apart? LOL

Hope someone chimes in. I have no idea what it could have came from.
 
BTW, I was talking about the rear end yoke when I posted above not the tranny yoke.

Good point. I checked the pinion yoke. It has the same inside width as the driveshaft so it should fit no problem.

But here's what's interesting. The bearing surface is thicker on the pinion yoke, .580", than the drive shaft, .380". So the caps will be sitting flush with the outside of the pinion yoke and not sticking out like on the driveshaft and yoke.

Seems like this driveshaft has wimpy ears to hold the u-joint caps. I'm starting to get concerned.
 
The picture you posted with the U-joint sticking out ARE THE WRONG U-JOINT,
Do not use it !!!
My 66 Dart post came with a /6 and no rubber drive shaft .
 
The picture you posted with the U-joint sticking out ARE THE WRONG U-JOINT,
Do not use it !!!
My 66 Dart post came with a /6 and no rubber drive shaft .

The u joints might be correct for a 66 Dart but the driveshaft is NOT CORRECT. Get the correct driveshaft and correct u joints.
 
The solid end goes toward the trans, the rubber end goes to the diff. Mustangs had these. The rubber is under pressure so if you cut it, itll pop.
 
I have been trying to rack my brain. I am 99% sure that is a late 50s or real early 60s Ford driveshaft.

[ame]http://www.ebay.com/itm/OLD-FORD-58-DRIVESHAFT-FOMOCO-FAIRLANE-FARELANE-352-AUTO-STICK-/201071846036?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ed0d0e294[/ame]
 
The slip yoke fits the back of a 1984 torqueflite I picked up. Do Fords and Chryslers have the same diameter and splines on the transmission output?

Most of the universal joints listed for 67 Mustangs on RockAuto have outside clips. But there are no grooves in the driveshaft or the yoke for the clips.
 
The slip yoke fits the back of a 1984 torqueflite I picked up. Do Fords and Chryslers have the same diameter and splines on the transmission output?

Most of the universal joints listed for 67 Mustangs on RockAuto have outside clips. But there are no grooves in the driveshaft or the yoke for the clips.

I don't have the answer but it sure doesn't look right to me.
 
The rubber isolated driveshaft is correct for your 66 car! Mine had the same shaft, as does th convertible 66 I have! I did however, change to a solid shaft when I did my rear end swap, I wasn't convinced that the isolated shaft could handle the power upgrades!

Those U-joints look highly suspect to me! They almost look lilt the 7290 instead of the 7260! Geof
 
The rubber isolated driveshaft is correct for your 66 car! Mine had the same shaft, as does th convertible 66 I have! I did however, change to a solid shaft when I did my rear end swap, I wasn't convinced that the isolated shaft could handle the power upgrades!

Those U-joints look highly suspect to me! They almost look lilt the 7290 instead of the 7260! Geof

Thanks for the data point.

On your cars, which end of the driveshaft goes in the front?

Also, would it be too much to ask for you to put a set of calipers on the ears of your driveshaft and measure how thick they are. Either my ears are too thin, or the caps on these u-joints are taller than what everyone else is using. You could either measure the thickness of the ears, or the outside width. Whatever is easier. Probably doesn't even need to be calipers.

Thanks in advance.
 
The rubber isolated driveshaft is correct for your 66 car! Mine had the same shaft, as does th convertible 66 I have! I did however, change to a solid shaft when I did my rear end swap, I wasn't convinced that the isolated shaft could handle the power upgrades!

Those U-joints look highly suspect to me! They almost look lilt the 7290 instead of the 7260! Geof




i dont think a 90 would fit in a 60
 
The rubber isolated driveshaft is correct for your 66 car! Mine had the same shaft, as does th convertible 66 I have! I did however, change to a solid shaft when I did my rear end swap, I wasn't convinced that the isolated shaft could handle the power upgrades!

Those U-joints look highly suspect to me! They almost look lilt the 7290 instead of the 7260! Geof

Interesting, I learned something today! LOL
 
The sleeved end goes to the back, solid end to the front! Ill get under the vert and get a measurement.....after coffee!!! Geof
 
I crawled under a 66 Valiant to look at the drive shaft. It did not have the rubber torsion outer/inner tube features. Just a simple steel driveshaft.

The ears on the ends were about the same size as mine. .38" thick and overall outside width of 2.88". What was different was the total width of the u-joint from the end of one cap to the end of the other cap. The valiant measured 3.145 while mine measured 3.245. Not a huge difference, but noticeably wider.

I don't see any problem with the setup. The caps are all the way onto the cross, and the snap rings are in their grooves. I think this u-joint just has taller caps and possibly longer needle bearings.
 
The sleeved end goes to the back, solid end to the front! Ill get under the vert and get a measurement.....after coffee!!! Geof

This is correct, as I have seen that type driveline on a few different cars and the rubber insulated end always goes to the back.
I have also seen them spin, and even though they stay together when it happens you would think the whole rear end flew out when it does it.
It makes a HORRIBLY scary noise and shakes the whole car, but when you get out to see what the hell it was, you can't see anything wrong.
Most people have that insulated tube replaced with a solid tube.

One other thing is that if only two of the caps stick out farther does NOT meant it will be out of balance, as long as they are on opposing sides.
I'm not saying the ujoints pictured are correct, just that it wouldn't be a balance problem.
 
This is correct, as I have seen that type driveline on a few different cars and the rubber insulated end always goes to the back.

Damn, I guess I will have to press them back out and move the yoke to the other end. I had two votes for rubber to the front earlier in this thread. Seems to me it's better to have it toward the back so crud and crap is likely to get stuck in the space and throw stuff out of balance.

I have also seen them spin, and even though they stay together when it happens you would think the whole rear end flew out when it does it.
It makes a HORRIBLY scary noise and shakes the whole car, but when you get out to see what the hell it was, you can't see anything wrong.
Most people have that insulated tube replaced with a solid tube.

That's good to know. I think I will mark it somehow and then if it happens I'll know what to look for.


One other thing is that if only two of the caps stick out farther does NOT meant it will be out of balance, as long as they are on opposing sides.
I'm not saying the ujoints pictured are correct, just that it wouldn't be a balance problem.

All of the caps stick out the same amount, with the exception of the pinion yoke. That's thicker and the caps are pretty much flush with the outside. No balance issues.
 
The rubber iso to the REAR.

I would throw that that out and build a AL shaft, i like to lose yesteryear outdated tech. Especially 40+ year old iso shafts that were never designed to last that long.
 
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