1967 barracuda hood insert color pattern

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71twister3bytheknee6

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So I had my hood inserts rechromed by N.E. Chrome Plating in East Hartford,Ct.They do nice work,but in the 2 months I dropped them off,I forgot exactly how they were painted (not to smart of me,considering the time and expense spent).This is what I remember...Each has 10 long,narrow ridges.The long,narrow tops are left unpainted.The 9 each U shaped grooves are painted,both floor and inside walls.My question...where the ridges end,front and back,each ridge ends like an upside down V.Are these painted,or are they left just chrome?Also,because the grooves were so pitted,I,m planning on using satin black,not gloss black,with a good coating of duplicolor adhesion promoter first for plastics or chrome use .Between these two,I'm hoping for some self leveling.If you have unrestored inserts,let me know how they are painted.I'ved looked at them on Ebay,but the pictures aren't crisp enough. Thanks,Rich
 
I don't have a pic in my phone, but I have some unrestored ones on Nellas car! They are not painted black, but a light silver argent! I will try to get a pic for you later if I can get out there!!
 
Ill take a look for pics of Dads 67. If you are going black and are good with pinstriping, you could run black strips down it?? I did that on 67 cuda headlight bezel and it looks great.

***EDIT*** Sorry no pics of inserts IF you want pics of bezels with pinstriping I can post those.
 
If you'll imagine the ridged area as a block, no outside walls of block are painted.
Factory was light argent color, some sort of phosphate treatment similar to paint, like the rally wheel centers.
 
Thanks all,The block explanation sewed it up for me.The 10 front and 10 back upside down Vs of the ends of the ridges are left chrome.What surprised me was the argent color finish(using a phosphate coating originally) in the grooves.My color,after 49 years of sun and acid rain,was burnt toast in color and consistency.That is why I originally was going to paint it satin black.I have some mopar muscle car wheel paint (excellent,tough,polyurethane paint) that will last many,many moons. Thanks again,Rich
 
Ok, I don't have a closeup on my phone of the louvers, but here is a pic where you can see the louvers clearly enough to see the argent colored pattern! I can get a pic of them up close tomorrow!! Geof
 

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Here's a couple close ups of the inserts!
 

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Great pics Geof.

Thanks Steve!! You would die to know what I paid for the whole hood that had these inserts!!! As I was carrying the hood from the swapper I bought it from, I had a pied piper line behind me wanting just the inserts!! Nobody was willing to buy the whole hood just to get the inserts, a small detail I took full advantage of!!!
 
Cosgig,Redfish,4spdragtop,Thanks so much for your input,and great pictures.I might use some hammer effect silver paint (did you know Argent is just silver in the French language) to help hide the pitting in the grooves,and it could mimic the original look of the phosphate covering.I'll try the Mopar Argent wheel paint 1st,and then if there is still too much pitting showing through,well on goes the hammer effect paint.It's amazing what industry can do.
 
IF you had a Bridgeport, fixture plate to mount the inserts to, in a compound vise, dial indicator, and proper end mill.... You could indicate in / locate each individual groove, then clean up cut it ( as much as required to clear 99% of pits, I don't know how deep yours may be ). From going and buying the material you'll make the mounting fixture of, to laying a coat of argent wheel paint, about 40 hours. Want to have 67 hood inserts that look better than any others ? That's how.
 
It was 50 degrees here today,so I flipped over my hood inserts,taped around the edges for no overspray on the front, and did some some experimenting.I found you definitely need adhesion promoter on the smooth chrome.I used Duplicolor,#CP199.On both inserts I followed with Rust-oleum filler primer grey,hi-build,#249279.This will be necessary to partially fill the pitts and craters I have in my grooves.Hey,I might even make a little foam sanding block,.25x1x1 and sand in the grooves,being careful not to sand down to chrome.I followed that on one insert with Rust-oleum hammered paint,#245219 Silver Hammered.It was no good.Too dull,and it looks too much like just a slate grey paint,but with dimples all through it.The other insert I covered with Rust-oleum textured metallic,#251053 Silver.DEAD ON in color for Mopar Argent muscle car wheel paint,#P4529876(this paint has no texture).And the texture in the Rust-oleum will further camouflauge the pitts and craters.I suppose if you had a high end car,use Totally Autos PPG textured light argent spray paint.What's $40,but I got everything I used/experimented with for $25,plus tape.When the weather get's up to 70 in the sun,I'll run thin pinstripe taping on top of the 10 ridges of each insert,and spray away.Hopefully by then I'll know how to post some pictures.:color:
 
Pictures...
 

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WARNING/DISCLAIMER...I am not a professional painter,I use OTC rattlecans.I see the work of true artists/professionals,such as airbrush artists,and pro bodymen/painters.With that said,there is a certain amount of trial and error with any project,even simple ones...I began masking with 1/8 inch masking tape on the narrow ridges,thinking I would curl it over the edges into the grooves.NO GOOD.I couldn't center the tape,and what happens if some of the tape peels up.I then found 1/16 inch vinyl pinstriping (no such animal as 1/16 inch masking tape) on Amazon.PERFECT.That is the width of the ridges.Next came a good application of adhesion promoter.I then got carried away with the hi-build primer:CHECKING.I decided to just go ahead and try to make the best of it,and why not add a layer of adhesion promoter???On top of all this came the rustoleum silver textured metallic paint,which comes out like a flood compared to most rattlecans.It must be under greater pressure,and have a larger spray orifice than most cans.IT'S GREAT!!! This all formed a mysterious,goopy substance I heated on the stovetop via underneath oven at 120 degrees for a couple of hours.I decided to very delicately demask at this time,since the tape was buried alive.Smart idea,I wouldn't wait a few days.The ridge tops needed cleaning with an old 100% cotton hankerchief slightly dampened in paint thinner to delineate them better.
 
I feel as if the pits/craters are much less noticeable,but they are not perfect,and never will be.(I had one lunar crater on an inside wall 1/2 the thickness of the ridge).I'm mulling over doing some sanding in the grooves,and remasking again (which I could do now in half the time),and repainting.If anybody does this hood insert painting,you might want to use a 2K urethane hi-build primer instead of the rustoleum hi-build primer.And ofcourse there are 2K spot glazing compounds,but I didn't want to be bothered going there,considering you can't even put your pinky finger into the grooves. Rich
 
So you strictly painted between the ridges? Are you going to paint the large outer area as well? Thanks for.posting all the materials and info. I may tackle this as I plan on doing the console plates and the silver is the same. P4529876
Thanks!
 
4spdragtop,Thanks for the compliment.That is it.My inserts were definitely untouched prior to me,and there was no paint or phosphorous coating on the periphery.My original chrome on the periphery was in decent shape,and didn't look as if anything had been sanded down/removed.These were made 49 years ago,so who knows whether the factory did a few batches differently.
 
Awesome!!! Glad you went with the silver, they turned out great!!!! Who cares if they're factory correct, those look dynomite!!!!!!
 
I've often wondered how and if anyone restored those 67 inserts. I'm making a quick post for two reasons:
1. To compliment 71twister on a great job, and
2. To search through threads that I have post to in order to find this thread again.
 
Cosgig, that's the way they ('67's) are supposed to look?
Chromed with Argent on the inside.
 
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