1967 Dodge Dart GT Automatic Center Console Rear Compartment Lid

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OG67DartGTC

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Hey all, first I hope y'all have an awesome Thanksgiving. Issue and question on the center console compartment lid: I bought a center console replacement top plate and the compartment top as well from Classic Industries (CI). My old compartment lid has a button latch, but the new compartment lid does not. I called CI about this issue and they acknowledge the compartment lid they sell as a factory replacement does not have the embossing or hole for the button latch, but no solution on how to secure the compartment lid (see attached pics). Because the lid spring is so strong, I need an internal latch to secure it or remove the spring and let the lid drop into place. Has anyone run into this issue and is there a fix to make sure the lid stay shut and secure with the spring in its original factory position? These parts were pretty expensive and don't want to fix this with some half-cocked fix and damage these parts. Is there a way to do this without a bunch of ways I can screw it up!! LOL Thank you in advance for your time ladies and gentlemen!!

Sincerely,
Matt Summers
Prescott Valley AZ

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Part of the issue is the new cover is a 67-68, the wood grain one is a 69 up.
100% agree, but I also asked and investigated on their website about the 69-76 and none of the new lids have the latch, latch hole or the embossing for the latch…
 
I think you answered your own question.

If you can accept screws showing on the top side you could drill the needed holes and bolt the lock in place with a spacer.

From maybe experience the spring hinge keeps the lid closed and the metal bracket at the back holds it open.
 
I think you answered your own question.

If you can accept screws showing on the top side you could drill the needed holes and bolt the lock in place with a spacer.

From maybe experience the spring hinge keeps the lid closed and the metal bracket at the back holds it open.
I was hoping not to have to do that, but can use some stainless allen or torque screws to make it as clean as possible, or I can release the spring tension of the hinge and use heavy latch magnets to keep the lid from rattling and stay secured while going down the road with the top down. I also am exploring to see if I can find an apex spring hinge that may work. I will look to see if there are any other threads here, but I greatly appreciate your input!
 
The lids without the lock has a spring loaded hinge that holds them down . Start a want ad for hinge hardware for the 67--68 console lid without the lock. When you open it all the way the lid stays open but just close it a little and it spring loads down. I know my neighbor has some but he don't sell parts.
 

The lids without the lock has a spring loaded hinge that holds them down . Start a want ad for hinge hardware for the 67--68 console lid without the lock. When you open it all the way the lid stays open but just close it a little and it spring loads down. I know my neighbor has some but he don't sell parts.
Thank you sir and will do!
 

See if you can reverse the hinge so it springs down. As said above the one with the hole is 69. To be honest i would return it to Classic and get a refund. Classic makes ZERO products, they are a reseller. Buy from Laysons, PG Classics or BE and A.
 
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You might also look at other latching mechanisms. There are hidden magnetic latches, push to close/push to open, your idea of a magnetic keeper is not a bad one. But fixing the hinge spring to hold the cover closed would make it unnecessary.

And before anyone says the metal lid would block a magnet from a magnetic latch... The lid is pot metal not iron.
 
Just out of curiosity. Why would you want to put a 69 style cover on your 67, you are opening yourself up to every purest telling you "that's not right" for ever.

Btw how is the fit and finish of the cover?
 
Just out of curiosity. Why would you want to put a 69 style cover on your 67, you are opening yourself up to every purest telling you "that's not right" for ever.

Btw how is the fit and finish of the cover?
When my dad bought the car I didn’t realize it had ‘69 seats, center console, or original 273 motor. When I ordered all my parts for the console plates, I ordered them for the ‘67, not for the ‘69, and the fitment is just like the original console lid and console door, except for hinge and button latch, but when they arrived I was finding differences with them. All parts were still in their boxes way too long before I knew they were different and I couldn’t return them. So, I began installing the interior bling and here we are now. The purist can say what they will (and they will and that’s okay), it doesn’t matter because of where I am at in this project now. I want this car to be bitchen for my dad, nobody else. After I knew this car was not 100% original in the interior and motor, I really had no choice but to make what I have work.
Where I am at the project and why I am doing what I’m doing: So far I have fabricated seat adapters for the Corbeau Seat tracks onto the ‘69 GT seats so my dad can work the controls, not from the side, but from the front like most modern vehicles have because of his hands and mobility issues, replaced seat belts with OEM style 2pt retractable seat-up for the front buckets and OEM original style for the rear, rebuilt the dash completely with NOS switches, LED OEM equivalent lights for all the gauges, replaced the circuit boards, rebuilt the original dash pad and had it re-covered, rebuilt and replaced the heater core box and core, all new seat covers (front and back) from Legendary Upholstery for the ‘69 GT and the OEM carpet kit and sound deadener insulation for the floors. I’m also doing all the metal work and body work and putting the car back to its original Mopar white as intended. And for the purists, I will be pulling the motor so the engine bay is also its original color as well. This car is going to be for my dad to enjoy as much as possible before he can’t do it anymore. Apologies for the long reply, but this is where I am going with this and why…
 
You might also look at other latching mechanisms. There are hidden magnetic latches, push to close/push to open, your idea of a magnetic keeper is not a bad one. But fixing the hinge spring to hold the cover closed would make it unnecessary.

And before anyone says the metal lid would block a magnet from a magnetic latch... The lid is pot metal not iron.
Would you by any chance know where I can get a spring hinge that is the reverse of what I have? The hinge I have will only go one way and it hold the door open, not closed, hence the button latch to hold it down…any advice is appreciated!
 
See if you can reverse the hinge so it springs down. As said above the one with the hole is 69. To be honest i would return it to Classic and get a refund. Classic makes ZERO products, they are a reseller. Buy from Laysons, PG Classics or BE and A.
I tried reversing the spring and that didn’t work…Too late for me to return them but I will look into these places for help! Thank you!
 
The lids without the lock has a spring loaded hinge that holds them down . Start a want ad for hinge hardware for the 67--68 console lid without the lock. When you open it all the way the lid stays open but just close it a little and it spring loads down. I know my neighbor has some but he don't sell parts.
I prefer the spring loaded version .
 
Glad to help, 67 originally had spring loaded lid. @RAT ROD AL is a great dude and he may have a lid?
Also @Rick@Laysons is a member here also.
I tried reversing the spring and that didn’t work…Too late for me to return them but I will look into these places for help! Thank you!
Where can I get the spring loaded version that keeps the lid closed? The hinge I have keeps the door open…
 
Oh.. that’s an issue.
Can’t take it apart and reverse it ?
Unfortunately no. The hinge rod has tails on both ends that are bent over the sides to keep it from slipping out from vibration and use. Also, the rod is some type of spring steel and doesn’t like to bent and twisted too many times before it snaps. One would think if this is what is being made and sold, the manufacturer would have a solution if it deviates from OEM. From some of the responses I’ve seen, apparently there are two different versions of hinges, but I haven’t found the hinge replacement that will keep the door down and not up…
 
I'll see if I can get a picture at my neighbors. There is a car over there with a console still in it sitting outside. I had a lid here but who knows where that could be right now.
 
I just talked to my neighbor and he just got a couple cars he would sell the lid with the correct hinge from. I can get a picture tomorrow. What I can tell you is he does not get rid of things cheap. I'll talk to him tomorrow when I go over.
 
I just talked to my neighbor and he just got a couple cars he would sell the lid with the correct hinge from. I can get a picture tomorrow. What I can tell you is he does not get rid of things cheap. I'll talk to him tomorrow when I go over.
The worst thing is if it too expensive, I can just “pass”, but I would like to see where he got the correct hinges from so I can source it if possible. I talked with PG Classics and they only sell the same hinge I have right now, even though they have the same type of replacement lid with no hole, embossing or latch button…someone out there has to make this hinge, but as most niche parts from Mopar, it’s hell trying to find the correct retail source. I appreciate all that you are doing for me sir!
 
Btw, if when you put your console back together you need the plastic slides for the smash tray cover I reproduce them. Pm me if you need them.
 
…someone out there has to make this hinge, but as most niche parts from Mopar, it’s hell trying to find the correct retail source. I appreciate all that you are doing for me sir!
If I remember I'll dig out my 67 console lid hinge. Mostly have to remember which bin it's in

:rofl:
 
Btw, if when you put your console back together you need the plastic slides for the smash tray cover I reproduce them. Pm me if you need them.
Absolutely! The ones I have now are pretty baked, but they still work, although, it would not be a bad idea to have another set on hand…just sayin’! I will definitely PM you in the very near future to make that happen!
 
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