1967 only K member ?

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orangecrush

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Is this the one year only 67 K member with the funky pitman arm ? Is it basically useless or will I be able to use/sell it one day ?

Biltmore and more 125 (Small).jpg
 
67 was a one year only. Breakdowns are 63-66, 67, 68-72 and 73-76.
 
The only difference between 67 and 68 is how the idler arm mounts on it.
Weld the other tab (for the idler arms through bolt) on it and 68 up parts will work.
 
Sorry - I meant idler arm - so that's an easy fix ? I'd need to fabricate I assume from some scrap. Probably going to sell with control arms and struts.
 
I wouldn't bother to modify it for sales. If the buyer wants to install 68 idler arm
it will align and hold the added tab in the proper position for welding. You would be guessing at it.
 
Hey guys, i read this thread and it brought up a very big question for me. My son is building a 440 67 Dart. He is going to need to change out the fronts brakes and everything on it. Does this mean that he is going to need to change the K-member too? He was going to keep it and just change all the front suppension parts to a later year and up grade to the bigger brakes....We know that he is is going to need the torsion bars too....Help!!!

Jeff
 
Hey guys, i read this thread and it brought up a very big question for me. My son is building a 440 67 Dart. He is going to need to change out the fronts brakes and everything on it. Does this mean that he is going to need to change the K-member too? He was going to keep it and just change all the front suppension parts to a later year and up grade to the bigger brakes....We know that he is is going to need the torsion bars too....Help!!!

Jeff

No. Just talk with a parts store about the correct pitman arm and idler arm for big block in 67 A-body application. Good luck
 
I just bought a '67 idler arm for my barracuda. I called all over locally and a few places across the country.

With most everybody getting it from a place called "Rare Parts" I just looked for the cheapest place possible. I ended up getting it from "Autozone" for 145.00 after sales tax.

Jim
 

I just bought a '67 idler arm for my barracuda. I called all over locally and a few places across the country.

With most everybody getting it from a place called "Rare Parts" I just looked for the cheapest place possible. I ended up getting it from "Autozone" for 145.00 after sales tax.

Jim
Same with the pitman arm. Most of there manuals say (not to be used with 440) beside those part numbers then stop short of stating what to use instead.
 
So I am still confused.. I am in the same boat... I am swaping a 383 into my 67' dart. I had no idea I would have an issue.. so I dropped the motor in this week and there is no way the pitman arm is going to work.

So what are my options?? I would prefer to keep the k-frame if possible??

Thanks Bryan
 
Later model steering gear, pitman arm, draglink, everything will bolt right in. All you'll need to do is add a metal tab at the bottom of the idler arm.
 
That sounds good... but I thought I heard a rumor the single tab that is currently on my 67' K is in a different location then where the 2 tabs would be for later style idlers??

Has anyone ever done this???
 
That sounds good... but I thought I heard a rumor the single tab that is currently on my 67' K is in a different location then where the 2 tabs would be for later style idlers??

Has anyone ever done this???
Hmmm,

If there was a slight difference I never noticed it and it didn't cause a problem. I bolted the pieces together and welded the added tab right where it landed. That was one my first 67, back in about 82. Was just a steering and brake upgrade, not a big block install.
Is there a reason why you want to keep the 67 k ? A later K will get better engine mounts.
 
So I went out and raised 4 hoods, 67, 68, 73,75.
The idler arms all bolt in right behind the lower control arm.
The 67 and 68 are in identical locations so to weld on another tab is all thats required. Now on the 73 up the bolt hole is about a 1/2 inch farther away from the K , as if the idler arm was shorter. Still dont see where it would make a noticable difference.
 
So I am still confused.. I am in the same boat... I am swaping a 383 into my 67' dart. I had no idea I would have an issue.. so I dropped the motor in this week and there is no way the pitman arm is going to work.

So what are my options?? I would prefer to keep the k-frame if possible??

Thanks Bryan

Are you using the "187"/"699" pan, with the linkage relief in it? The special pan is needed for clearing steering linkage for the Big block A-body swap.
 
I am using a pan from a 64' polara, seems like the pan will work.. but the pitman arm nut smashes MAJOR into my TTI Headers? I bought the headered used and there is a slight dent in the tube at that location.. but I need about 3/4" - 1" to get them to clear?? Any options or ideas??

thanks Bryan
 
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