Okay well Im new to this site and My 67 valiant has been giving me problems one after the other. So Here Goes I have a 67 Valiant with a 78 360 Engine with a Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit I just replace the Msd Ignition coil Blaster 2 Cause it started leaking oil everywere. Here goes the problem, The car starts great runs and drives fine for about 15 Min. And I will come to a stop light stop and drive off and the car will just shut off. When I pull over I check the Battery conection and its fine. Turn the headlight on and there fine and bright. Get back in the car turn the key to fire up..... nothing no noise no power. Wiggle the Sterring Columb shifter to Nutural and turns over but wont fire up turns and turns. Doesnt sound like the battery cause it sounds like it has plenty of cranking power to start it. But heres the catch my buddy shows up Puts his jumper pack on the Battery and tells me to fire it up and Boom it starts My buddy said it could be the voltage regulator or Alternator. He had me drive with it down the street with the jumper pack connected all the way back to his show and no problems, we looked at the charging volts and it was 12.9 Im not the Best with cars and this is why Im looking to you guys for answers. The Only Electrical Thing I messed with before this all happened was the Voltage gauge in the stock intrament Panel. I disconnected the voltage gauge and tried to start the car and wouldnt start. When I wired it back up it started fine.... ??????????????????????????????????????????????? This may sould confusing and im sorry but if anyone has any answers please help...
1967 Valiant Signet Electrical Proble Please Help I need a Pro
- Thread starter Dash8264
- Start date
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cudajim
cudajim
Hmmm, kind of confusing but I'll take a crack at it. A 67 Valiant did not have a voltage gauge but it did have an Ammeter which measures current. If you disconnect it you're dead in the water so keep it hooked up and be sure the nuts are tight on the back of it. You'll have to measure battery voltage while it's running... should be about 14.2 volts at a fast idle with everything on. Start there to see if you have a charging problem or not.
Having to move the shifter around to get the starter to work is a poorly adjusted neutral safety switch. To run of a few minutes and quit for a few minutes is probably just bad connections or something in the ignition failing. Ignition modules are notious for come and go operation. Over heats = no spark, when it cools it works again. Then theres the coil. They over heat if there isn't a proper ballast resistor in it positive supply. And what do you have for a charging system ? If you have the original alternator/ mechanical regulator you dont have enough system voltage for any brand of electronic ignition.
A service manual will help with a lot of the diagbosis and how to adjust the neutral safety switch.
A service manual will help with a lot of the diagbosis and how to adjust the neutral safety switch.
marksmopars
Well-Known Member
Is your system well grounded?
Dash21182
Member
Every thing seems to be wired right. I replace the voltage regulator with one from napa. Seemed to stop cutting out. Today it started again I have a mopar electronic ignition system. And a msd blaster 2 coil. I did notice the car would sometimes cut out and I would have to wait about 4 min to start it. And I noticed that ballist resistor gets super hot. Another thing someone told me to do it get rid of the ammeter and hook up the two wires to each other. This car is a headache.
Please read Redfish's post CARFULLY. He packed a "lot of stuff" into that post
WIRING
All these girls are getting old, and more and more guys are having problems with poor connections at connectors, in switches, and the fuse panel. Your top no1 suspects for poor connections are:
The bulkhead connector (through the firewall)
connector on the ignition switch
fuse panel
ammeter circuit
PLEASE READ this article by MAD electrical which shows what can happen. This is about a pickup, but the cars are pretty much the same. I've seen several pickups with electric snowplow lifts do this exact thing:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
came from here:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
Also notice in the above article, the simplified diagram down the page. You'll see in the black ammeter wire a "welded splice" This is a factory welded splice, taped up in the under-dash harness that feeds headlight power to the headlight switch, feeds the main hot buss in the fuse box, and provides the main feed to the ignition switch
AMMETERS can develop problems including loose connections
WELDED SPLICE can and has failed
COIL/ BALLAST. Make sure you have the proper ballast resistor for your coil. Watch the coil for heat. The fact that one leaked, and the car runs and quits is "the classic" symptom of a weak coil. You may not have the correct ballast, and may be overheating the coil
Get yourself a 12V test lamp, a couple of bags of Radio Sh## clip leads, and a basic digital multimeter. Post back, and we can direct you through a few tests
VERY important that you get yourself a FACTORY shop manual. You can buy them several places, including ebay, both repop on paper and on CD. I think I paid about 35 bucks for mine.
In the meantime, you can download a couple of useful factory manuals for free here on this site. There's a 72 (your charging system will be different) and a 66 (electrical will be very similar, mechanics somewhat different, as 66 was the last of the "early" body
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
WIRING
All these girls are getting old, and more and more guys are having problems with poor connections at connectors, in switches, and the fuse panel. Your top no1 suspects for poor connections are:
The bulkhead connector (through the firewall)
connector on the ignition switch
fuse panel
ammeter circuit
PLEASE READ this article by MAD electrical which shows what can happen. This is about a pickup, but the cars are pretty much the same. I've seen several pickups with electric snowplow lifts do this exact thing:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
came from here:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
Also notice in the above article, the simplified diagram down the page. You'll see in the black ammeter wire a "welded splice" This is a factory welded splice, taped up in the under-dash harness that feeds headlight power to the headlight switch, feeds the main hot buss in the fuse box, and provides the main feed to the ignition switch
AMMETERS can develop problems including loose connections
WELDED SPLICE can and has failed
COIL/ BALLAST. Make sure you have the proper ballast resistor for your coil. Watch the coil for heat. The fact that one leaked, and the car runs and quits is "the classic" symptom of a weak coil. You may not have the correct ballast, and may be overheating the coil
Get yourself a 12V test lamp, a couple of bags of Radio Sh## clip leads, and a basic digital multimeter. Post back, and we can direct you through a few tests
VERY important that you get yourself a FACTORY shop manual. You can buy them several places, including ebay, both repop on paper and on CD. I think I paid about 35 bucks for mine.
In the meantime, you can download a couple of useful factory manuals for free here on this site. There's a 72 (your charging system will be different) and a 66 (electrical will be very similar, mechanics somewhat different, as 66 was the last of the "early" body
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
There are a gazillion posts on the electrical problems you are having. You can do anything from a quickie fix to a full re-wire (as I and 67Dart273 did). Best way to bypass the ammeter is to run an 8 awg wire from the big stud on the alternator direct to BATT+. If you bypass it in the passenger cabin, you still rely on the bulkhead connector, which is the main problem area for 1966+ cars.
Your erratic dying problem is almost certainly in the bulkhead connector or (less likely) a bad ignition switch or erratic ballast resistor. The Mopar electronic ignitions are not known for reliability. HEI is a much better design and gets rid of the ballast resistor.
It sounds like once it wouldn't turn over until your friend connected jumpers, even though the battery was charged. That is very common corrosion at the battery terminals. I had to remove and clean the terminals every few years when I lived in GA, on all my cars. Ask at any auto parts store for fixes.
Your erratic dying problem is almost certainly in the bulkhead connector or (less likely) a bad ignition switch or erratic ballast resistor. The Mopar electronic ignitions are not known for reliability. HEI is a much better design and gets rid of the ballast resistor.
It sounds like once it wouldn't turn over until your friend connected jumpers, even though the battery was charged. That is very common corrosion at the battery terminals. I had to remove and clean the terminals every few years when I lived in GA, on all my cars. Ask at any auto parts store for fixes.
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