Thanks Idaho.
1968 Dart 2dr post RESTO (father/son)
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metallidart
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Yes, thanks! I will try what you said, especially on the thicker metal where the box mount is. I had my wire speed at about 33, and the heat was on 2 (it goes to 4). If I put it on 3, should I turn the speed up too? Or is it something I just need experiment with? I need to read up on it and watch some videos. I think that I got good penetration around the seams, before I wire wheeled it you could see the metal color from the change, but not so much on the thicker stuff. Thanks again for the tip and the pics, thats exactly what I need.
Idaho
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We all want our welds to be pretty. Good welds by an experienced welder are pretty. But the focus should really be on good penetration. When its good, there's some melting evident on the back side. I try to weld near the upper limit. When penetration is good, the weld tends to lay flat. If its mounding up, increase current. Then up the wire speed if it needs it. One way to judge when you need higher wire speed is you will notice the wire burning too close to the tip, sometimes sticking to the tip when you stop. There's also more sputtering as the wire melts away right at the tip. Higher wire speed is needed when filling gaps as you can see in my pics. When welding on the edges of course the heat has nowhere to go so it builds fast. You have to turn it down.
How you move the tip is personal preference, and varies with the situation. Often I find doing a tig weld pattern gives great penetration. Make a hot molten puddle, brief stop and make an overlapping puddle. Seeing the puddle well is critical. Find a position that gets the tip out of the way.
Those are some of the things that have helped me.
There's lots of good youtube vids. Practise is the big thing. Welding up a K member is a great way to learn. Its thick enough to be easy. Lots of variation in technique needed. Nothing bad will happen if the welds are not super strong. Its not where you'll see it a lot later
How you move the tip is personal preference, and varies with the situation. Often I find doing a tig weld pattern gives great penetration. Make a hot molten puddle, brief stop and make an overlapping puddle. Seeing the puddle well is critical. Find a position that gets the tip out of the way.
Those are some of the things that have helped me.
There's lots of good youtube vids. Practise is the big thing. Welding up a K member is a great way to learn. Its thick enough to be easy. Lots of variation in technique needed. Nothing bad will happen if the welds are not super strong. Its not where you'll see it a lot later
You're welcome.
Great tips Thanks.
dbphemi
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I just read the post about you picking up the 69 fenders. Your going to need a 69 grill and head light bezels too to use the 69 fenders. the 68 grill wont fit. I had the same problem with my 69 trying to fit a 68 fender.
metallidart
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Really? I have never heard that. I assumed they were pretty much the same. Now I am gonna have to go monkey with it just to see! lol. Well, if they dont work, I like the 68 stuff the most, Ill just have to find 68 fenders. Thanks for the tip.
dbphemi
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Yeah 67 and 68 are about the same besides side markers. the 69 headlights are recessed back about an inch back from where your 68 buckets set. they aren't even a close fit. I learned the hard way. I thought a 68 fender would fit but it ended up being easier to score 69 fenders.
metallidart
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I know some folks mod the fenders to fit. Another use for your welder
Haha very true! I still have my 68 fenders, so I will check that stuff out in the morning. Just when you think you might be getting ahead...lol
I have good luck using the cheap dollar store oven cleaner, and a pressure washer to degrease parts.
Becareful though it will take paint off.
metallidart
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Supposed to be decent outside this week, so I want to try to finish this k-member. I think today I will finish all the seam welding, and grab some cardboard and make some templates. I can't wait to try what Idaho was saying!
Here is a question. The 3 welded nuts that the box bolts go into have ugly threads. A tap goes in, the bolts tighten up, but they got rusty at some point and there are spots on the threads that flaked off. Should I replace them? If so, whats the best way?
Here is a question. The 3 welded nuts that the box bolts go into have ugly threads. A tap goes in, the bolts tighten up, but they got rusty at some point and there are spots on the threads that flaked off. Should I replace them? If so, whats the best way?
metallidart
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Got off to a slow start today, I had zero motivation...then I got messing with the K-member and ended up running out of wire! Unless I can get rid of a few parts, I'm stuck till payday. So, tomorrow I will clean it up, and make the gussets I need to reinforce it. All I got left os the reinforcing, got all the seams, etc welded up!
Idaho, I turned my heat up a notch, and paid closer attention to the puddle, moving like you said. Wow, what a difference! Thank you! I will post some pics tomorrow.
Idaho, I turned my heat up a notch, and paid closer attention to the puddle, moving like you said. Wow, what a difference! Thank you! I will post some pics tomorrow.
How much is wire?
metallidart
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Flux core is about $22 for a small spool. I kinda screwed myself this pay lol.
metallidart
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I gave it a quick wash today. Yeah, my patio is my garage.
Idaho
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I'd be VERY surprised if the nuts need replacement. If you want peace of mind, I'd suggest you look up the torque spec, find some short bolts, use a larger nut or washers for spacers, lube with oil and torque them down to 5 ft lb over spec. If they hold fine without stripping you have your peace of mind.
Glad to hear the welding progress. I have pics of the other boxed area on the K if you want.
metallidart
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Pics would be awesome! I am still a little unsure as to where/what/how to box it in. I have a big peice of 1/8" steel plate to use.
I can't wait to see pictures.
132068Dodge
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Hate to tell you but if you plan on using the 68 headlight bezels you will need to relocate them further outboard on the fenders! The 68 and 69 bezels have a completely different spacing and fitment around the headlights. I am restoring my 69 to 68 SS specs and had to do this too. Not too difficult. Just use your original 68 bezels as your index. Love the father son bonding. I grew up building cars with my Dad and will always cherish our time together. Still do !
!
132068Dodge
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Self correction. You will need to relocate the headlight buckets. Darn my communication skills sometimes .
.
metallidart
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Thanks for the tip! That doesn't sound too hard. The headlight area is about all thats left of my old fenders! lol. So far, this is probably my favorite build I've done, I get to teach my boy and spend time with him, I am a little less "strict" on this one, every other car I have been stuck on keeping it looking original, this one is for fun. Also being able to weld instead of relying on someone else to do it is also a nice change of pace.
Idaho
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This is a lot of pics. Sorry if I'm overdoing it and cluttering up your thread.
First you see the other area of the steering box being boxed with a metal piece partly cut to fit. I welded it partly, trimmed the upper overlap, then finished the welding.
The next pics are a u-bolt welded in to slots cut in the K, then a skid plated welded over top. I sliced the plate so it would bend, then welded over the slices.You can also see the edge seams are all welded over. My welds don't all look so great but its plenty strong. The black coating is POR 15. I used a pom pom on a long wire to get it inside. To me welding is one of the best parts of the project. Its just fun.
The idea for the tow hook is from another member (mad dart I think).
Funny part is I'm not using the K. After getting the front suspension set up I decided I wanted a lower stance and ordered a Hemi Denny K setup. I put my K and the parts to go with it up for sale, and it sold in a couple hours to a member who is local. He has it in his car now.
First you see the other area of the steering box being boxed with a metal piece partly cut to fit. I welded it partly, trimmed the upper overlap, then finished the welding.
The next pics are a u-bolt welded in to slots cut in the K, then a skid plated welded over top. I sliced the plate so it would bend, then welded over the slices.You can also see the edge seams are all welded over. My welds don't all look so great but its plenty strong. The black coating is POR 15. I used a pom pom on a long wire to get it inside. To me welding is one of the best parts of the project. Its just fun.
The idea for the tow hook is from another member (mad dart I think).
Funny part is I'm not using the K. After getting the front suspension set up I decided I wanted a lower stance and ordered a Hemi Denny K setup. I put my K and the parts to go with it up for sale, and it sold in a couple hours to a member who is local. He has it in his car now.
Thank you from me.
This can be done to spool k frames also correct?
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