1968 Dart Project, thoughts

-
its a bit over priced. i would only give 2500 based on the pics and that is the very top end of what i would spend. looks like it might be a pretty solid car. i love the post cars but i personally cant stand the stance of the car. this looks like quite the project. if you dont have the time and money to put into it i would walk away.
 
younggun2.0 said:
its a bit over priced. i would only give 2500 based on the pics and that is the very top end of what i would spend. looks like it might be a pretty solid car. i love the post cars but i personally cant stand the stance of the car. this looks like quite the project. if you dont have the time and money to put into it i would walk away.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your honest opinion. If I am fan of nose-high stances, is this not what I want? Sorry i am a newbie.

I know its a Camaro, but this is what I was thinking about for stance
View attachment hrdp_0912_01+1967_chevy_camaro+street_machine_makeover.jpg
 
younggun2.0 said:
I think the nose is up in the air on that dart because there is no motor in it.
Click to expand...

I am with you now, thanks for your help. Again, I am totally new to this. I will see how firm he is on price, I did call but he is at work and wont be home till later tonight.
 
DTFTH45 said:
I am with you now, thanks for your help. Again, I am totally new to this. I will see how firm he is on price, I did call but he is at work and wont be home till later tonight.
Click to expand...


if this is your first project then i would recommend buying a running driving car that you cam upgrade as you drive it. alot of guys buy big projects that they have all then intentions of rebuilding and they either run out of money time or ambition.
 
younggun2.0 said:
if this is your first project then i would recommend buying a running driving car that you cam upgrade as you drive it. alot of guys buy big projects that they have all then intentions of rebuilding and they either run out of money time or ambition.
Click to expand...

I see what you are saying totally. My dad's dart is a 4 door, slant 6 family original, so no real mods on that anytime soon. I thought it would be a solid car for me to work on little by little. I want something with a little more punch than a bone stock slant six. I will see if I can get more pics from the guy.
 
Here's how I see it. IF the bucket seats are in good shape and have the tracks, IF the center console is in good shape, those items right there would be a pretty good expense to get right or purchase if they weren't with the car. The wheels are certainly worth something, they look fairly new. It comes with two engines, albeit 318's.

I would ask what rear end is in it. IF it's an 8 3/4, possibly sure grip, that is a large chunk of change in of itself to put in if it doesn't have one.

The car looks solid from here, but we all know how that goes. If you go look at it check it out on the underside real close, frame rails etc..

Take 3000.00 with you and if it has all of the amenities I described, I wouldn't think you could go wrong. You could always offer him 2500, all he can do is say no and counter.

Just remember you can always go up a little, but you can't go down.

Now, if the seats are trashed, no tracks and it has a 7 1/4 rear then I would try and stay on the low side. Ultimately if it's something you want then you will need to fight that one in your own mind.

Just for reference, I looked at a 67 roller, it had no engine/trans, no interior to speak of and a 7 1/4 rear. They wanted 2700 for it. I think it was worth it based on the condition of the body and underside, it was as clean a car that I have seen in a long time.
 
Bad Sport said:
Here's how I see it. IF the bucket seats are in good shape and have the tracks, IF the center console is in good shape, those items right there would be a pretty good expense to get right or purchase if they weren't with the car. The wheels are certainly worth something, they look fairly new. It comes with two engines, albeit 318's.

I would ask what rear end is in it. IF it's an 8 3/4, possibly sure grip, that is a large chunk of change in of itself to put in if it doesn't have one.

The car looks solid from here, but we all know how that goes. If you go look at it check it out on the underside real close, frame rails etc..

Take 3000.00 with you and if it has all of the amenities I described, I wouldn't think you could go wrong. You could always offer him 2500, all he can do is say no and counter.

Just remember you can always go up a little, but you can't go down.

Now, if the seats are trashed, no tracks and it has a 7 1/4 rear then I would try and stay on the low side. Ultimately if it's something you want then you will need to fight that one in your own mind.

Just for reference, I looked at a 67 roller, it had no engine/trans, no interior to speak of and a 7 1/4 rear. They wanted 2700 for it. I think it was worth it based on the condition of the body and underside, it was as clean a car that I have seen in a long time.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the advice, when I call him back I will try for more pictures. If I get them I will post them here and add the additional details I get.
 
I don't understand how you can tell anything about the stance of a car that is obviously up on jack stands (and has no engine as already pointed out).

I know it's not your focus, just something you mentioned, but the stance is about the easiest possible thing to fix, so I would worry about everything BUT the stance.

But pretty much what Bad Sport said. It all depends on how solid and nice the body really is, and how complete the car is otherwise.
 
Collage Student and project cars don't mix unless you plan to procure and have a place to park it for a while. Focus on your education.

I second what 72Dodge said, be tough driving down the street with stands under it....:D
 
dano said:
Collage Student and project cars don't mix unless you plan to procure and have a place to park it for a while. Focus on your education.

I second what 72Dodge said, be tough driving down the street with stands under it....:D
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help, we have a barn with a concrete floor that we keep dry and fairly clean, so storage would not be a problem. I will have to see what the guys says. Depends on how firm he is on price.
 
well Badsport said it the best for info. the stance well it is on jack stands and i think, but thats looking at the pics, if you took the jack stands and put the car down on the ground the back tires look like they would have interference with the wheel wells but might just be the pic
 
went back and looked at it again yes the car looks clean from the pics
 
rlevs said:
went back and looked at it again yes the car looks clean from the pics
Click to expand...


there are no lug nuts on the rear wheels. they are just sitting there for the pics. makes me think that the offset is wrong and they wont fit the car. so your going to have to get new wheels or have the rear narrowed or get air shocks and joe dirt the rear of the car.
 
Just got off the phone...here is what I learned:

There is a running 318 in the car, the other 318 is a block with gaskets and the 340 head is for the motor out of the car

727 torque flight tranny, converted from column shift to floor shift, has multiple shifters (hole not drilled for shifter yet)

no drive shaft installed, has 7.25 rear

car currently has a bench seats but he has buckets out a barracuda that need "cleaned up" and the consel he says is perfect, also two dash pads, will need head liner

was originally a /6 car, now has the '69 v8 with the correct frame mods

will need a new passenger floor pan

it has air shocks set up

says he has lots of double parts from another car he had that he sold

he has owned the car since he was 13, now is 25 and needs to sell cause of a court case and needs a lawyer, but in no hurry to sell, he says it has been garaged since he had it, rims in great shape

says he wants at least $3000 for it

more pics coming sunday

any new opinions with further info?
 
younggun2.0 said:
there are no lug nuts on the rear wheels. they are just sitting there for the pics. makes me think that the offset is wrong and they wont fit the car. so your going to have to get new wheels or have the rear narrowed or get air shocks and joe dirt the rear of the car.
Click to expand...

Yes, he mentioned something in that regard, he was kinda hard to talk to, haha, talked a lot
 
DTFTH45 said:
Just got off the phone...here is what I learned:

There is a running 318 in the car, the other 318 is a block with gaskets and the 340 head is for the motor out of the car

727 torque flight tranny, converted from column shift to floor shift, has multiple shifters (hole not drilled for shifter yet)

no drive shaft installed, has 7.25 rear

car currently has a bench seats but he has buckets out a barracuda that need "cleaned up" and the consel he says is perfect, also two dash pads, will need head liner

was originally a /6 car, now has the '69 v8 with the correct frame mods

will need a new passenger floor pan

it has air shocks set up

says he has lots of double parts from another car he had that he sold

he has owned the car since he was 13, now is 25 and needs to sell cause of a court case and needs a lawyer, but in no hurry to sell, he says it has been garaged since he had it, rims in great shape

says he wants at least $3000 for it

more pics coming sunday

any new opinions with further info?
Click to expand...

crawl under it and look for any rust/rot under the car. frame rails or suspension attaching points are a deal killer for me. look in the trunk especially the spare tire well. look closely at the window frames. then check the lower parts of the front fenders. lower corners of doors and the lower edge of rear quarter panels. if it is what he says it is with a solid body then i would offer him 2800 and then work your way to 3k if he wont budge.


a solid foundation will save you a ton of money in the long run.
 
younggun2.0 said:
crawl under it and look for any rust/rot under the car. frame rails or suspension attaching points are a deal killer for me. look in the trunk especially the spare tire well. look closely at the window frames. then check the lower parts of the front fenders. lower corners of doors and the lower edge of rear quarter panels. if it is what he says it is with a solid body then i would offer him 2800 and then work your way to 3k if he wont budge.


a solid foundation will save you a ton of money in the long run.
Click to expand...

Yeah, definitely want a solid car, he is going to get me pics of underneath (hopefully)
 
Well, your description above certainly does change things a bit. I would move to the lower offer amount and work from there.

Again, IF the seats are in real good shape WITH tracks, that is something you don't have to deal with. A body buckets in driver quality with tracks can get pricey.

If you are planning a performance build at all, you will want to lose the 7 1/4 rear, for an upgrade. A body 8 3/4 rears set up appropriately can get pricey.

Floorboard, hmmm........ will/can you do that yourself? If not then there is added cost right there to get it done properly.

It really boils down to, how much work do you want to do? How much can you do yourself?

I'm sure you can do most of the stuff yourself with help if need be from others.
 
younggun2.0 said:
if this is your first project then i would recommend buying a running driving car that you cam upgrade as you drive it. alot of guys buy big projects that they have all then intentions of rebuilding and they either run out of money time or ambition.
Click to expand...

Or all three!!
 
Bad Sport said:
Well, your description above certainly does change things a bit. I would move to the lower offer amount and work from there.

Again, IF the seats are in real good shape WITH tracks, that is something you don't have to deal with. A body buckets in driver quality with tracks can get pricey.

If you are planning a performance build at all, you will want to lose the 7 1/4 rear, for an upgrade. A body 8 3/4 rears set up appropriately can get pricey.

Floorboard, hmmm........ will/can you do that yourself? If not then there is added cost right there to get it done properly.

It really boils down to, how much work do you want to do? How much can you do yourself?

I'm sure you can do most of the stuff yourself with help if need be from others.
Click to expand...

I would try to do as much as possible myself, and I know of a shop that one of my high school friend's dad owns, where I got the exhaust for my Intrepid, and that would be where I would take it. They are honest and do good work.
 
Those rear wheels will have to go and most likely have the wrong offset seeing they are 10" wide and the car isn't tubbed. It seems like a pretty decent ride with it being a post car and a good amount of side chrome for a dart. I would have to see more pics and see the undercarrage before I gave that much for it,$3,000 is a good starting price to neg on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top