1968 Valiant fiberglass doors.

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tvt59

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I'm getting ready to start building a two door 1968 Valiant braket car. I'm trying to find two fiberglass doors. Several companies list them. But they are actually Duster doors. The Valiant is a post car and has a frame in circling the window. Is that what everyone is using? I guess just make the lexan window bigger to take up the space for the frame around the window.
 
As I recall, the windshield on my Valiants have a much
more straight up Windshield angle and way different
Windshields. I guess you could fab some plexy windows
that would fit without any door frames and make a brace to
hold the them in place.
Mopar tried to Make a swoopy fastback Duster/demon changing the roof/1/4s
without changing any more parts than they had to change.

I do have very nice Fenders that are the same as the Duster Demon except no running
lights with headlight installed that fit on all factory brackets for $500.00 that would be
much less work to install and would save a bunch of weight.
 
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As I recall, the windshield on my Valiants have a much
more straight up Windshield angle and way different
Windshields. I guess you could fab some plexy windows
that would fit without any door frames and make a brace to
hold the them in place.
Mopar tried to Make a swoopy fastback Duster/demon changing the roof/1for/4s
without changing any more parts than they had to change.

I do have very nice Fenders that are the same as the Duster Demon except no running
lights with headlight installed that fit on all factory brackets for $500.00 that would be
much less work to install and would save a bunch of weight.
Thanks for replying. I have some really good steel fenders. I'd like to put a fiberglass front end on it but all I can find is Duster style front ends. I'm trying to get to about 2600 lbs race weight.
 
Thanks for replying. I have some really good steel fenders. I'd like to put a fiberglass front end on it but all I can find is Duster style front ends. I'm trying to get to about 2600 lbs race weight.
I believe the front ends are identical except for the grilles which are interchangeable.
 
Aren't Duster door glass curved? Kinda the Duster rounded theme....
 
Yes, Roof and all Glass are totally different on the Valiant and on Duster/Demon.
 
I'm getting ready to start building a two door 1968 Valiant braket car. I'm trying to find two fiberglass doors. Several companies list them. But they are actually Duster doors. The Valiant is a post car and has a frame in circling the window. Is that what everyone is using? I guess just make the lexan window bigger to take up the space for the frame around the window.
Why would ANYONE in their right mind choose to race a Valiant?
 
I'm getting ready to start building a two door 1968 Valiant braket car. I'm trying to find two fiberglass doors. Several companies list them. But they are actually Duster doors. The Valiant is a post car and has a frame in circling the window. Is that what everyone is using? I guess just make the lexan window bigger to take up the space for the frame around the window.
I looked when we painted my car and noone made a door with the frame and !I HAD TO HAVE! that 'production' look. I did buy 'glass doors from a local buddy but they needed so much finesse to look 'real' I reasoned it wasn't fair to burn-up my buddy/painters time. I estimated the 2 doors would loose about 85lbs over the gutted and lexan stockers. My 8.50cert car with the cage being moly was 2530 without me. One seat, no chute, !MILD STEEL 2x3! steel floor below driver, 4 link with ARB moly 25.2 tubes in floor, Dana, '440' with 2 4150's, 52lbs 12v battery alternator, rack and C/O front, double beadlock rears. Basically I feel if i tried doing it all over with ladder-bar and round tube back-half and stock floor 8.50 cert and smarter tube routing, I could loose another 60lbs or using only critical tubing. I can loose more than 50 in a smarter electrical system.
 
I looked when we painted my car and noone made a door with the frame and !I HAD TO HAVE! that 'production' look. I did buy 'glass doors from a local buddy but they needed so much finesse to look 'real' I reasoned it wasn't fair to burn-up my buddy/painters time. I estimated the 2 doors would loose about 85lbs over the gutted and lexan stockers. My 8.50cert car with the cage being moly was 2530 without me. One seat, no chute, !MILD STEEL 2x3! steel floor below driver, 4 link with ARB moly 25.2 tubes in floor, Dana, '440' with 2 4150's, 52lbs 12v battery alternator, rack and C/O front, double beadlock rears. Basically I feel if i tried doing it all over with ladder-bar and round tube back-half and stock floor 8.50 cert and smarter tube routing, I could loose another 60lbs or using only critical tubing. I can loose more than 50 in a smarter electrical

I looked when we painted my car and noone made a door with the frame and !I HAD TO HAVE! that 'production' look. I did buy 'glass doors from a local buddy but they needed so much finesse to look 'real' I reasoned it wasn't fair to burn-up my buddy/painters time. I estimated the 2 doors would loose about 85lbs over the gutted and lexan stockers. My 8.50cert car with the cage being moly was 2530 without me. One seat, no chute, !MILD STEEL 2x3! steel floor below driver, 4 link with ARB moly 25.2 tubes in floor, Dana, '440' with 2 4150's, 52lbs 12v battery alternator, rack and C/O front, double beadlock rears. Basically I feel if i tried doing it all over with ladder-bar and round tube back-half and stock floor 8.50 cert and smarter tube routing, I could loose another 60lbs or using only critical tubing. I can loose more than 50 in a smarter electrical system.
I'll be SBM, TF904, chrome moly 8.50 cage, Dana 60, chrome moly rear clip and 4 link, lithium battery, alternator and a oil accumulator. I'll use lexan windows if I can get them. You think that I can get to 2600 lbs without driver?
 
My son and I race 68/69 Valiants that are street legal and
driven that are about 2850. They will be driven to Mopars at
the Strip (Now Muscle Cars) in a couple months and will run
in the 10's thru the mufflers.

The last time I ran Glass doors = They were a pain and fragile
not advised for a street car and annoying on a race car.
 
I'll be SBM, TF904, chrome moly 8.50 cage, Dana 60, chrome moly rear clip and 4 link, lithium battery, alternator and a oil accumulator. I'll use lexan windows if I can get them. You think that I can get to 2600 lbs without driver?
Yes there is extensive detail where I replied elsewhere. If you're willing to do those things. I also was using a production iron B block.
 
Yes there is extensive detail where I replied elsewhere. If you're willing to do those things. I also was using a production iron B block.
I looked at your tread on mp's. Your Valiant is beautiful. Mine won't be as nice as yours. But it will have Hemi Denny front end, chrome moly cage and rear clip, 4 link. It'll be a nice braket car.
 
I looked at your tread on mp's. Your Valiant is beautiful. Mine won't be as nice as yours. But it will have Hemi Denny front end, chrome moly cage and rear clip, 4 link. It'll be a nice braket car.
Thank you, the pics and text gives an idea of the lengths in the name of weight. But again, while there is unnecessary material there in the scope of redundancy, there is also tubes/material added where I felt i needed the strength. My 4-link brackets are heavier-wall more than typical as well. Just trying to give you the data to support my opinion.
 
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