1969 Dart GTS RestoMod named Dottie Rae in NC

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JeffisOld

JeffisOld

Old, Ugly and generally Disagreeable!
Joined
Jul 2, 2017
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Location
Sophia,NC
Hello folks, it's time to start a member restoration thread I guess.

I am an older fat guy living in the Piedmont area of NC. I retired from the USMC a little over 20 years ago and have finally settled in where I am not moving any more. I have been fortunate enough to get a 69 Dart GTS from my brother. The car was a column shift automatic with originally. It's not rust free but far better than many projects I have seen.

I will get religious with photos shortly as I hope to get ideas and advice from both those who do and do not have any idea what you are talking about.

I bought a rotisserie at the Mopar Nats n Ohio 2 years ago. I hope to get it back from my brother shortly. And put Dottie on it. So far I have removed the front and rear suspensions completely. I made stands modeled after the ones US Car Tool sells and they work Great. I am halfway through putting mini-tubs in the rear.

I met Bill Reilly from RMS suspension at the PA show this year and I will be installing the Alterkation and Lynx systems front and rear. I have to finish welding the frame connectors from US Car Tool in the I get the rotisserie from G.

You can laugh at me but upside down welding is not my thing. I suck at it, but a grinder allows me to fix anything.

I am have purchased 18x10 wheels for the back with 295/45R18 Nittos and 16x7 front wheels with 205/50/R16 Nittos. I have no choice but to make fit. There will be disk brakes at all corners. I have an 8 3/4 housing I have welded a support backbone to to hold a pair of new Strange axles that I will order as soon as I can measure the size I need. Lots to do!

Ya know, it's a good thing I'm retarded or I'd never find time for all this!

OK, RMS set up my front end with RB mounts and I plan to buy heads and stroker kit from 440 Source to make a 512. TTI will exhausting out the back and if I am not on welfare by then I will put fuel injection on top. There are 2 or 3 brands in the running.

My hand hurts! Will post a few pictures and write some more later. Please give me your thoughts and ideas.

Jeff. 10/6/2017



Dottie1.jpg
 
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Got the remainder of the Alternation installed today except for the sway bar because I couldn't find the hardware until the shop was cleaned up.
20171107_170804.jpg
 
Tomorrow I will begin the Lynx installation. I need to get her down on wheels to see the wheels in place.
20171107_174639.jpg
 
I have made this cut for the L tub and need to get the R one cut too. I need the wheels in place to get a dimension for the axle. I put a backbone support on the axle housing that I may regret as I forgot how many U bolts get used in the RMS application.
 
Going to order a Strange axle set for the 8 3/4 as soon as I can get it measured. I have several gear sets available but I will have to get a posi unit. From what I've seen Auburn makes about the most cost effective unit. Does anyone have issues with their quality?
 
Nice to see a build thread on the car! Sounds like it’s gonna be a beast!
Only thing I have to add is that if the back brace gets in the way of a U bolt, just drill a hole and run the U bolt through.
 
That was the plan Slant. I am just trying to keep things as clean and smooth as possible. I am debating smoothing the door handles, trunk key and so forth.
 
On Wednesday 11/8/17 all I did was cut out the remaining wheel well in order to install the mini-tubs.
10_8_17a.jpeg


I may have reached a decision regarding the underpan too. I was planning to make the entire floodplain slick as a baby's butt and glossy painted. I am of the opinion at this point that the underneath will most likely get coated with 3M Rubberized Undercoat which will GREATLY reduce the workload for this old fat man.

The areas of the wheel wells forward to the transmission well is covered with an undercoat that is very difficult to remove. Besides that will help hide some defects too!
 
I did absolutely nothing today...

...except spend money!


Today I purchased a 2 gallon kit of epoxy primer, a 3" Folic sanding kit and mandrel, 12 tack cloths and a gallon of final rinse solvent. Oh yeah, a gallon of lacquer thinner also. I did order some internal frame sealant too.

I really want to get the surface rust off and get her sealed up while I work on the bad rust areas.
 
Tire fitment trials for the rear. I will get it up about 2 inches more into the wheel well. Fortunately the RMS Street Lynx is extremely adjustable.

tirefitment.jpg
 
Thank you sir!

I was quite concerned about getting those 18" wheels into the wheel wells. Looks like I have more research on than I originally thought.
 
Thanks 75Slant6, I have been worried about getting those wheels and tires into the wheel well. It seems like most people talk about tire sizes based on a 15 inch wheel. The wheel well will be filled up nicely and I have room left over.

So, that means after these become melted on the rear quarter panel a bigger set (at least an inch wider) will go on!
 
Cleaning up the tub pieces for a while today. I don't know if that carp is factory but it sucks to get off. I pulled out the RB block I will use and a set of truck heads for mock-up. I need to get the engine compartment in place so I can decide how things will be routed. Will mount a block/heads and a transmission for mock up.

I know, no pictures, I will remedy that. It's such a pain in the as s to take a picture with my phone, email it to my tablet after I reduce it's size and then load it from my tablet.

I will need to plan routing for:

Battery wire needs to go to trunk.
1/2 or 3/8 inch metal fuel line to the tank underneath
Fuel Injection wiring to inside of firewall.
Ignition wiring to MSD6AL box.
Wiring from 6AL to inside firewall.
Electric fan wiring to inside firewall.
Oil pressure gauge tubing to dash.
Water temperature signal wire to dash
Voltmeter wiring to dash.
A/C line to dryer and then to dash unit.
Turn Signal and Headlight wiring.
Horn wire and mount location.
Line lock wire to dash.


Help me, what have I forgot guys?

I DO NOT want to have to drill (or fill) any holes after paint.

I guess I better get headers too so wiring and brake lines etc. will be clear.

Ouch, my wallet hurts!
 
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Got the front brake rotors installed and front wheel set in place to approximate the finished stance.

Maybe I am crazy but it's motivating!

Stancecheck.jpg
Stancecheck.jpg
rear wheel better.jpg
20171116_182037.jpg


tirefitment.jpg
 
Today I cleaned up my cans of all that crappy undercoat. I cleans up the edges of the cans and the holes in Dottie. I believe the next thing I will do is install the new mounts that are similar to onboard relocation hangars. In my case they will hold the front mounts bars for the axle locators. Will do lots folic tomorrow.
 
Still working to get ready for the mini-tub installation. Got to get her all jacked up and supported level because I really want to get the spring relocation fixtures in.

allreadytocut.jpg


The car was not exactly level when jacket up. It required a piece of 1 by 4 on the passenger side jackstand to get the bubble centered.

gettinlevelbig.jpg


Here's the wheel tubs lying on the floor with the extension strips attached with clekos.

minitubsonfloor.jpg

Here's a shot of the spring relocation fixtures that come from Reilly Motorsports. They are a full inch wider than the frame rails. I believe the ones from US Car Tool are the same width as the frame. I want to talk to Bill Reilly before I cut the frame up. I can guess but not sure how they recommend.
relocatordifferehce.jpg
 
Hey Jeff, welcome to the wonderful world of trial and error. Great Project. Wish i had gone with the tube front. Check out my build 69 Dart GT Conv. 340-6pak maybe it will help you from making some of the same mistakes I made. By the way, Im in Wilson NC, 60 miles east of Raleigh. If I can help, just drop me a line.
Martin
 
I don't know why these darn mini-tubs are taking forever. I have my spring locators (sorta) in and mostly welded. The Rh tub is assembled and installed but not completely welded in place. I have somehow managed to run of wire and argon mix at the same time. Got that replaced today but ran out of time so nothing was done. Why does life keep getting in the way of my work on the other woman. I will have to get busy with my little Miller 130xp tomorrow. And I promise to send pictures of lousy welding too.

I bought a new helmet from Eastwood that's got a HUGE view window, adjustable shade and real color vision instead of looking through NVG's. I hope that will make a difference in my Gorrilla Welds!

Keep you posted.
 
Things have been a little slow on progress lately!! Got my new welding mask in so I was able to mount the cross brace for the RMS Street Lynx suspension.

RearSupptBar.jpg


I have needed that piece in to be able to hang the rear end housing (8 3/4) for cutting. Once I send the housing to be cut I will be able to call Strange and get my axles. Order rear disc brakes also. I will need all that to be able to set ride height and position fore and aft.

RearSupptBar.jpg
 
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