1970 dodge dart driver door wont open

[gage1970dart]

this morning I got in my 1970 dart which was a slant 6 car, converted to a 383 big block with sub frames. I opened the door and shut it. now the door will not open. THE LOCK WORKS and both the button (outisde of the car) and the handle from the inside works and pushed the plunger up on top of door. I have shoulder checked it, trying jiggling the door. push hard then pull.

just dont want to damage it as it's restored.
door sits flush but it just won't open.

I posted photos of the passenger side also

 

[toolmanmike]

Try a door key

 

[gage1970dart]

Try a door key

tried wont work

 

[Murray]

Remove door panel to access.

 

[moparlvr166]

Try pushing the door into the body and hold in, lock and unlock door with key then the inside lock knob, then try to open, if still no go it's time to remove the door panel to get into assembly and try to get released with a hook wire.
Question how long since the paint job, I see overspray on the latch of the door that still opens, possible paint gumming up latch and won't release.

 

[Inertia]

Try lifting it as pulled ?

 

[gage1970dart]

Try lifting it as pulled ?

thanks I tried but can't lift anywhere on the door. tye inside is plastic and on the outside handle I don't want to break the handle or dent the panel trying to pull up hard

 

[gage1970dart]

Try pushing the door into the body and hold in, lock and unlock door with key then the inside lock knob, then try to open, if still no go it's time to remove the door panel to get into assembly and try to get released with a hook wire.
Question how long since the paint job, I see overspray on the latch of the door that still opens, possible paint gumming up latch and won't release.

been years since it was painted. but never had any door issues. so you know how to remove the inside pannel. cuz im going to have the front bench Seat in my way

 

[RAT ROD AL]

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Been here. Take the seat out is first then take the window crank ,arm rest, and door handle off . Remove door card. Once your in there if you need pictures of a latch ask

 

[str12-340]

I will bet that the changes in drive train were significant enough to let the body sag until the subframe connectors came into play. The latch is pushing down on the strike and even though you release it, the bind is such that the latch isn't releasing from the strike. Once you get it open, take the strike out, realign the door, which will be too low in the back and then replace and adjust the strike. the question is how to get the load off the strike. If you really can't get it to let go pulling up on the handle (or maybe the inside frame if you get the inner panel out), I have been successful taking the rear quarter inner panel off, grabbing the threads of the strike and screwing it in (toward the door). Once loose, the strike will move and relieve the pressure. One more try would be to try jacking the car up in the middle to relieve the pressure.

 

[str12-340]

1970 Dart Custom, right? a rare car. If you need any 70 Custom specific trim, send a PM... love that interior!

 

[gage1970dart]

I will bet that the changes in drive train were significant enough to let the body sag until the subframe connectors came into play. The latch is pushing down on the strike and even though you release it, the bind is such that the latch isn't releasing from the strike. Once you get it open, take the strike out, realign the door, which will be too low in the back and then replace and adjust the strike. the question is how to get the load off the strike. If you really can't get it to let go pulling up on the handle (or maybe the inside frame if you get the inner panel out), I have been successful taking the rear quarter inner panel off, grabbing the threads of the strike and screwing it in (toward the door). Once loose, the strike will move and relieve the pressure. One more try would be to try jacking the car up in the middle to relieve the pressure.

the sub frames and all the mods were done in 2017. so why now do.i have issues

 

[George Jets]

If the door latch is binding on the striker pin?

Try jacking the car up high enough to get jack stands under the sub frame at the transmission.

Then let the car down on the jack stands. The weight of the engine and front end will help flex the Unibody so it takes the pressure off the door latch/striker pin.

Hopefully the driver door will open then.


☆☆☆☆☆

 

[George Jets]

Here is another thought as the linkages and latch wear over time (driver's side being used the most, and has the most wear).

Try unbolting the driver's inside chrome latch release handle (7/16" headed bolt..maybe 1/2").

Then grab a vice grip or channel-lock pliers and grab the swing mechanism to get more travel out of the latch release linkages. (hint: you can put a 1" long bolt in it to have something to grab onto)

Good possibility the chrome handle is bottoming on the upholstery/arm rest, and won't push the linkage far enough to release the door latch.

Have someone else lightly push in on the door from the outside as you try to release the latch from the inside.

(As you are lying on your belly on the bench seat, working the linkage).

Could easily unbolt the arm rest at the same time to get it out of the way, with the chrome handle off.

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[George Jets]

As you are getting into it with the arm rest off, you may be able to spray WD-40 in through the small holes to soak down the latch mechanism from inside > with the spray tube on the can. (without having to remove the interior door panel)

Also can spray the striker pin door latch area from the outside door/quarter gap with the WD-40 straw.

Soak it down, keep loosening things up. That old grease in the latches gets dried out and hard over time, WD-40 will help soften it up again.. give it some time.

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[Inertia]

I will bet that the changes in drive train were significant enough to let the body sag until the subframe connectors came into play. The latch is pushing down on the strike and even though you release it, the bind is such that the latch isn't releasing from the strike. Once you get it open, take the strike out, realign the door, which will be too low in the back and then replace and adjust the strike. the question is how to get the load off the strike. If you really can't get it to let go pulling up on the handle (or maybe the inside frame if you get the inner panel out), I have been successful taking the rear quarter inner panel off, grabbing the threads of the strike and screwing it in (toward the door). Once loose, the strike will move and relieve the pressure. One more try would be to try jacking the car up in the middle to relieve the pressure.

That's why I suggested lifting the door.
I have been able to get a pry bar under the door from the back seat, and just gentle pry up on the door from the sill.

 

[str12-340]

the sub frames and all the mods were done in 2017. so why now do.i have issues

Sorry, thought the body was done in 2017 and engine transplant and connectors recently. Still given the symptoms and what all is confirmed to be working, I think that bind on the strike is most likely. After 7 years, maybe a tight tolerance has just closed up with time.