1970 DUSTER 440 4spd 8 3/4 posi

-
What a great project. You've done more in two months then I've done in the last two years. Good luck on the wedding plans. Howard
 
another duster saved!!!! getting there... oh so close... yeah don't forget the brakes....fun to go...but you gotta stop!

Lookin' good!

Aloha!:cheers:
 
Hey guys, thanks for the comments

Howco4, If I had to do body work, I would be way behind. Your car looks good though. You should keep just one post under member restorations, that way you can look back at it from start to finish. It's kinda cool for me to go back to page one, and see where I was a month or so ago.

Dfnsmn34, I have upgraded the brakes on the front from small bolt drumb to big bolt disc. I have heard that it is almost imposible to run power stearing and power brakes on a 440 in a A body, SO they are left with manual , but I can allways change that down the road.

AS far as a burnout goes.....yeah there might be a few, but I really don't know anything about the engine, nor who built it, or the credibility behind the builder. So I will prob take it easy for the first couple hundred miles. Once I am sure things won't go BOOM, then I will put the foot to it.

I have allready decided that I may change the Cam in the winter. It is a crane cam, but nothing special. I am hoping that when the time comes, I can just take it out through my grill opening. that way I don't have to re/re the engine.

I will be working on it this afternoon. Hoping to get the fuel lines done. I was able to barrow a flaring kit from a freind.

Thanks again for looking guys. :)
 
Let me just saythat I would be done these fuel lines, if I had a good flaring tool.

I have mounted my Holy blue Fuel pump, close to the tank, and I have lines conecting the tank to the pump with a filter too.

I also have mounted my fuel regulator on my inner passenger side fender, and I have run Fuel lines from it to the carb.

I have my fuel preasure gauge on, I just need to finish my 3/8's line from the pump to the reg, then I need to run my 1/4 inch return line.

I have gone through 2 pipe benders, and 2 flaring kits. This is killing me. I am hoping to be finished either today or tomarrow, Just depends how much time I get to work on it.

I have removed all my header bolts and wraped tephlon on them and put them back in. Why didn't someone tell me that they went into water jackets...SHEESH ;)

Well, I'll keep you all posted.

Phil
 
Well, I finished running all my fuel lines including a return, Mounted my Holly pump , and Regulator, and pressure guage. I thought it would all be good, but I was getting 15 PSI, and it would only drop to 12psi!!!! The problem is that my fuel line is 3/8 line, and my return was 1/4, My return line couldn't keep up. I took it off and conected 3/8 rubber return line to a jerry can....and it worked, I was able to here the car idle nice and smooth with 6 PSI fuel. My carb might be screwed because of haveing the 15 psi going to it a handfull of times. The car seams to have a hesitation when you punch the throtle. It also seams to back fire a bit too, Prob because of all the fuel being pushed into the car for the first bit. Once I have it tuned, it should be OK. we will have to wait and see.

But the good news is that she runs, and idles:cheers:

The bad...my water pump leaks, and so does my header bolts on the passenger side. along with a couple other small issues. nothing big though.

Oh well, I am getting closer.

Phil
 
Phil, Just found your thread today and read all the posts. NICE JOB ! Like someone else posted, you've done more in the last couple of months, than I've done on my Dart in a year and a half !!! Keep pressing on, don't let the little gremlins get to ya. You're VERY close now.
 
great to hear it runs now. good job. if anything, all the fuel pressure did was bounce the needles off their seats. they should be fine. the stumble could be acc. pump shot, too small squirter. the backfire could be a vacuum leak or too retarded of timing, or too small squirter.
 
redfastback said:
great to hear it runs now. good job. if anything, all the fuel pressure did was bounce the needles off their seats. they should be fine. the stumble could be acc. pump shot, too small squirter. the backfire could be a vacuum leak or too retarded of timing, or too small squirter.
Click to expand...


Would I have to re-set the needles? or will it fix itself. I had a chevy guy come out and help me with my fuel pressure prob, and he said that the carb just doesn't seam to respond well. ( he is the guy I buy all my parts through..and he does know his stuff) He said I might have to warantee it. But I will fix the other problems I have, and see if it runs better.

I won't be able to touch it for a couple days. All depends, my phone keeps ringing. I do Rubbish Removal...and It's spring cleaning time. :)

I have noticed alot of people buying there gold membership. I would if i could right now...but every penny counts. All I can say is I really apreciate this site, and I wouldn't be as far as I am without all your help...including the people who run this site. Prob won't be a gold member till I pay off my wedding costs, and the money I have put in this car. In the mean time...I'm a gold member to be!

I never thought one of the first places that I am going to send my wedding pics would be to a Mopar forum!


Thanks for the comments. Lots of people have told me that I have completed more in a couple months, then they have in a year. I kinda have to. It would suck to show up to the wedding in a rubbish truck!!!!!

Phil
 
I have changed My fuel return line from 1/4 to 3/8 line, it now idles, butu not too well. I am going to adjust my rockers agaion, I have a healing that they wern't set right because when I was setting them, some of the hydraulic lifters seamed to tighten down too far, But now that the car has oil pressure, I am sure I will be able to back off some of the lifters. it doesn't respond well when you punch the throtle, it hesitatess bad, and it also backfires. so that is why I think the lifters/rockers need to be set. I will do it one last time, then if it is still acting up, I will loook at the carb, and timing again.

I have just small anoying stuff to do. its weird that I am soo close to being finished...yet, because of all the small little task needed to be finished on the car, I get bored, and discouraged when I work on it now.

I want to get ie on the road for my Birthday on June 2nd....we will see.

Phil
 
holley right? put a bigger squirter on the carb first. then if it still hesitates, loosen the acc pump 1/2-1 turn. then if it still does it, check timing as rpms go up, you need to isolate timing and fuel.
 
Well i have installed my Rear end axle seals, and I have my new bearings pressd on and the axles are in, I will just need to fill the diff up.

I was messing around with the water leaks and the timing today. My timing gun sucks. it seams to stop working once in a while. kinda frusterating. I have it set a little better then it was befor. as for my passenger side header bolt water leak, it turns out that it was my heater hose leaking, the water was running down the fire wall, along a couple wires, onto the engine, down and around onto the headers. because of where the water was hitting the ground I thought it was my header bolts. I'm glad it's not, and the problem is fixed. I am still leaking on my water pump, it is coming out of where the top hose is. I'll get that fixed this afternoon.

But its coming along, I will just need to get the brakes bled, then the yoke on the drive shaft changed, then it should be close to a test drive. I will need exhaust still. Going to order it soon. I will also have to fix the stearing problem too. But I am getting close now.


I know how much you guts like pictures, But I am sorry...I don't have any.

Will a couple videos do?

Here is one of my progress as of Today, May 20th 2008





And here is it Running, a little better than my first video of her :) Still backfired a bit in this video, But not nearly as bad as it used to.








What do you guys think? Think I can have it on the road by June 2nd?!?!?!
 
you've got 13 days...hmmm... maybe you shouldn't do anything today
start tomorrow and have 12 days left.

Go Get Er!
 
for the backfire, check for vacuum leak, cracked plug, bad wire. what level of vacuum do you have @ the carb? what powervalve do you have? have you adjusted the acc pump? what # is on the discharge nozzle?
 
redfastback said:
for the backfire, check for vacuum leak, cracked plug, bad wire. what level of vacuum do you have @ the carb? what powervalve do you have? have you adjusted the acc pump? what # is on the discharge nozzle?
Click to expand...

wow, thats all a different language to me. all my plugs and wires are brand new. I don't know how to check vac pressure, nor do I know how to find out what power valve I have, or what the acc pump is, and what/where is the discharge nozzle?

Sorry red fastback, i just don't know a hole heck of alot.

On a side note, I have removed my stearing linkage, and installed my V8 linkage with a new pitman arm, now everything clears the pan now. I have put the yoke on the driveshaft, and when I went to put the drive shaft in, it wouldn't mate to the rear end. I have a new U joint to use to make it work.

so its just a couple things left

Install of drive shaft
Fill diff with oil
Fill tranny with oil
Bleed Brakes
Secure Fuel lines to frame
Put in Leaf spring bolts ( i noticed today that they are only in with a peice of pipe)
Order Exhaust
Instal exhaust
Tune up. should be able to get it done for a case of beer. Good freind is a mechanic
wheel alinement
Vehicle inspection

DONE! :cheers:

I'll try and get the first 4 or 5 items on the list done tomarrow.
 
did a little today.

Put the nuw U joint on, and installed the drive shaft.

I also ordered my exhaust so it should be here this weekend or early next week.

I spent the rest of the morning cleaning up the tools out from in and under and around the car. I might have some time this afternoon to finish up a couple other things.

Any help with the what you mentioned ,Red fast back, would be great

Phil
 
the discharge nozzle is what squirts the gas in at 45* angles into the fron 2 bowls. it has a big phillips head screw holding it in. for vacuum, find a vacuum plug below the throttle blades, usually in the front under the fuel bowl. that has constant vacuum @ idle. put a vacuum gauge on it and it will tell you what kind of vacuum the engine is producing. the power valve is in the metering block behind the front fuel bowl.
 
With the engine off you should be able to look into the front two barrels, push the throttle lever with your hand, and you should see two strong streams of fuel getting squirted down the throats of the two front barrels. That is the accelerator pump squirting fuel out of the accelerator pump nozzles. This assumes your front fuel bowl has fuel in it of course.

The fuel should squirt out immediately when the lever is moved even a small amount. If it doesn't then its a problem.
 
When i move the throtle it squirts out the front like you say. I took off the valve covers and re-adjusted the rockers. I am glad I did cause the rockers needed adjusting now that the engine had oil pressure. I also found out that the rocker shaft wasn't bolted down tight. I have now torqued it down to 25 foot pounds. I guess thats what happens when you take over a project that someone else didn't finish.

after i adjusted the rockers, I started the engine again and it was still doing the same problem. But I have found out what the issue is. i have all the ports on the carb pluged except for one, and I have it with a hose conecting it to the distributer, and it back fires when I have it like that. If I disconect it from the distributer it runs fine with no backfiring, I can hold it a 2500RPM nice and smooth, I can't do that if the distributer is conected to the Carb. and I can feal the end of the hose that is conected to the carb and it is sucking more and more as the throtle gets used. I pluged the distributer, and it seams to run fine with NO problems now

Is that the vacume advance? if not, what is it?
and do I need to use it?
can I just plug it? seams to work ok that way.

Phil
 
Yes that is the vacuum advance and you don't have to have it hooked up. Vacuum advance is for part throttle fuel economy and is not really needed.
 
I have completed a couple things so I thought I would adjust My TO DO LIST.

Getting closer. and it is more exciting now that the engine runs a lot better.

Still To do;

Fill tranny with oil (started to fill it, But I ran out of AT fluid.)
Bleed Brakes
Put in Leaf spring bolts
Instal exhaust
Tune up.
wheel alinement
Vehicle inspection

I should have my exhaust Early next week. ( tuesday or Wednesday) so I plan to have it all finished next week, and Inspected on or befor Saturday. I hope to have it insured on Sat, sunday or Monday Next week. My B day is Monday the 2nd, So I might have an early B day present to myself.

:burnout:
 
Well its guna really be tight if I can have it insured for my birthday. I should be able to drive down to blain Washington to pick up my exhaust today or tomarrow. I have blead my brakes now. I have to bolt on my bumper and my tail lights too. forgot about them. so i will do that today to pass some time., as well as fill the rest of the tranny up.

To do list.

Fill tranny
bolt on bumper
Bolt on tail lights
Pick up exhaust
Put in exhaust
inst Leaf spring bolt
wheel alignment
tune up
inspection.

SOOOOOO CLOSE!

Phil
 
can i ask one question isnt this car a stick. You say you are filling it with atf which my understanding would be automatic transmission fluid. If its a stick and its a stock four speed 833 it should take gear oil i usually run 75w 90 in mine. Just wondering maybe you are running a aftermarket trans or something or it was just a typo but just wanted to make sure you knew either way. Good Luck with the project Justin
 
jjr426 said:
can i ask one question isnt this car a stick. You say you are filling it with atf which my understanding would be automatic transmission fluid. If its a stick and its a stock four speed 833 it should take gear oil i usually run 75w 90 in mine. Just wondering maybe you are running a aftermarket trans or something or it was just a typo but just wanted to make sure you knew either way. Good Luck with the project Justin
Click to expand...

I filled my first cars tranny several years ago, and when I did, I bought some kind of gear fluid, ( I forget what type) Then I was asking around to some dodge freaks after I had finished, I found out that they should have ATF in them. I thought that was weird being a standasd transmision. I didn't bother draining my 4 spd at the time, and it has worked properly without any problems. ( still have the car, and I filled it about 5 years ago. But I have removed three manual 3 speed tranny's and two 4 spd trannys in the last year, and you know what came out of the tail shaft on all five of them...ATF!!!!

Kinda interesting huh? Post a forum on this and see if you get any answers as to what is correct, and what is better for a 4 spd 833. I'm sure you will get an answer.

Phil
 
jjr426 said:
can i ask one question isnt this car a stick. You say you are filling it with atf which my understanding would be automatic transmission fluid. If its a stick and its a stock four speed 833 it should take gear oil i usually run 75w 90 in mine. Just wondering maybe you are running a aftermarket trans or something or it was just a typo but just wanted to make sure you knew either way. Good Luck with the project Justin
Click to expand...

I filled my first cars tranny several years ago, and when I did, I bought some kind of gear fluid, ( I forget what type) Then I was asking around to some dodge freaks after I had finished, I found out that they should have ATF in them. I thought that was weird being a standasd transmision. I didn't bother draining my 4 spd at the time, and it has worked properly without any problems. ( still have the car, and I filled it about 5 years ago. But I have removed three manual 3 speed tranny's and two 4 spd trannys in the last year, and you know what came out of the tail shaft on all five of them...ATF!!!!

Kinda interesting huh? Post a forum on this and see if you get any answers as to what is correct, and what is better for a 4 spd 833. I'm sure you will get an answer.

Phil

PS...I HAVE MY 3 INCH EXHAUST NOW!!!!!!!!.

will be working on the car tomarrow, as long as I have the time.

:burnout:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top