1970 duster project

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well ive got a little done pretty much got the rear end buttoned up still working on wheels and tires combo along with finishing up the disc brake settup this rearend is amazing the entire housing along with the center section is solid chrome so are the springs shocks and floaters
the settup is 8 3/4 backbraced with super stock springs ladder bars and full floating adjustments and shocks
 

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Man....I thought this would be all show.....looks like it will GO to!!...Wowwwww
 
working on tire sizes at the moment what do you think :headbang:
 

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is it too late to talk you into slidin some big "hogs" under there?...I know the touring stuff is all the rage...but can't ya humor us old guys just a little?.....put em on steelies...they can even be chrome!
 
sorry! my friend also tried to get bme to put some convo pros on it ive had that pro street look before just not my style but i always like feedback itshard to imagine the car came factory with 14s
 
yes they will be staggered 18x8s front and 20x10s back right now im working on more rubber in back they are 285/30 zr 20 its 26" tall im going to switch for something that 28" tall and 11"wide that should give me more rubber
 
So amazing....but after looking through the entire thread I'm
afraid you are going to be in for the biggest bind of your life
when you try to run that rearend with the solid welded ladder
bars in conjunction with the solidly bolted rear leaf springs;
especially with drastically different pivot points!

AWESOME GTX !!!!!!

Also.........

And NOT to criticize you (by far not the only one), but there is
no such thing as a "STAHL" converter!

I don't know where this got started but.........

Jere Stahl was a hell of a racer. He made a lot of products
including his famous STAHL brand custom exhaust headers
and his STAHL brand tall skinny frontrunner drag tires.

But Jere Stahl NEVER made torque converters. This is a common
misconception.

The correct term is a high STALL speed converter; as in, at what
rpm will it stall? (cease to slip); having a higher stall speed.....and
made by any number of manufacturers.

Excuse me but I slip a gear whenever I see a common aftermarket
high stall speed torque converter (ATI, Turbo-Action, Coan, B&M,
Fairbanks, A-1 what have you...) referred to as a "STAHL" converter.

I swear, you cannot open a "Car Trader" magazine anywhere in this
country without seeing this error repeated!

Good.....Ok.....Now where are my pills?............
 
im not shure i get what your saying solid
the springs will move in the bushings up and down and so the ladder bars on the front pivot point it also has bushings to move up and down so im not quite shure what your meaning
a very well known race car builder in my area did the fab and tub work on it was his idea to build it this way or four link was the choice this is something that older race cars have been doing for years of course in the last twenty or so years there have been alot of changes done for triangulating rearends in cars its possible i dont know anything and hes a dummy too but i think hes built enough race cars to know not to do something im shure the first time i fire it up and do a smoky burnout i will find out but like i said i always like input good bad or ugly
as far as stahl stahl stahl stahl man i dont know what to say about that one i will make myself correct that terminology from here on out just for you stall you picked that one right out of there thanks on the gtx thats my favorite car ive ever had and ive had alot of them have a good one
 
Yup, that rear suspension looks pretty screwed up, look at the front pivot points of that ladder bar assy, and then notice your leaf spring attatchment points, as a leaf spring compresses, it will want to slightly move rearward, but it cant, cause of the ladder bar. Bind up city!! you could ditch the ladder bars, be the simplist solution, or let the rear stay ladder bar, and convert to coil over shocks. Who ever built that must work on mostly chevys, good luck the car, it looks good otherwise..
 
I see now that your rear suspension may be ok since it looks like there
are pivoting sliders on the spring mounts under the rearend. Hard to see
with all of that chrome!

Make sure (on final assembly) that there is plenty of grease on the top
and the bottom of the leaf springs where they contact the sliding plates.
They will have to slide to prevent binding; just pivoting is not enough.
The chrome may be a plus here for smooth operation.
 
Yeah, I couldnt see any sliders cause of the chrome!! I need to wear sunglasses to even look at the pics! If it does have sliders on the leafs, should be ok.
 
you guys had me second guessing my choices yes there are floating housing sliders and yes they are hard to see with all that chrome thanks though your keeping me on my toes i called the fabricator that did the work today and he assured me there wouldnt be any problems as long as i followed the directions for the floaters correctly and yes he did say to make shure that they were greased a bit
 
glad we cleared that up......sure hate to see ya' have to break out the "blue wrench"
 
That thing is WAY over the top!

Are you really going to drive it?

Better stock up on cleaning and polishing supplies.

Very nice!
 
have ya figgered out how to pack that parachute yet?......sat Hi to John in Mt.Vernon for me...met him at Indy one year...we had a blast w/ him around.
 
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