1971 Dash / Gauge Cluster Removal

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GY3 71 Demon

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I could really use some help...

The car is a 71 Demon with a rallye dash.

Really bizarre thing just happened. I was taking my car out for a short spin and while I was driving the round lens that covers the ammeter/temp/gas/oil moved forward and appeared to touch at the center of the gauge cluster. A small spark flashed and the ammeter needle fell off.

I bought it home and now I'm a bit apprehensive to drive it because I worry about having a short circuit and starting a dash fire/melt wires.

So I guess I need to remove the whole cluster to see what is going on. I'm not even sure I can fix it...but I have to take a look.

I've never taken a dash cluster out of an A-body. I searched the forum to find some help but a lot of what I found seems to skip some steps and be more for those that have done it before rather than for a novice like me.

Can someone point me to a link on a step-by-step explanation on how to remove the cluster? Or can someone that has done it before give me some guidance? I'd really appreciate it.

Ya' know it figures, when I finally have some decent weather to drive her around this happens :banghead:

Thanks in advance...
 
I've told every rally panel owner I deal with.. "DO NOT TAP ON THE GLASS!"
There are a few melt stakes that hold the lens and metal mat to the bezel. When a gauge doesn't act right the driver will tap on the lens. This has zero positive effect on gauge function. You described the malfunction that occurs.
The good news... There isn't a serious fault that requires the car to be parked and panel to be removed right away.
The bad news... the metal mat likely kinked all 3 needles. They'll need to be straightened, stripped to bare metal, and repainted.
Panel removal procedure is found in factory service manuals. I have back problems that prevent my following that procedure so I've developed my own method to the madness. Hope this helps
 
RedFish said:
I've told every rally panel owner I deal with.. "DO NOT TAP ON THE GLASS!"
There are a few melt stakes that hold the lens and metal mat to the bezel. When a gauge doesn't act right the driver will tap on the lens. This has zero positive effect on gauge function. You described the malfunction that occurs.
The good news... There isn't a serious fault that requires the car to be parked and panel to be removed right away.
The bad news... the metal mat likely kinked all 3 needles. They'll need to be straightened, stripped to bare metal, and repainted.
Panel removal procedure is found in factory service manuals. I have back problems that prevent my following that procedure so I've developed my own method to the madness. Hope this helps
Click to expand...

I'm almost in the same situation - thanks to a driver who was texting and t-boned my car, I now have 2 metal rods and a metal cage fused to my spine in my neck.

Boy, oh boy, I'm not looking forward to trying to take the dash out since it looks like I'll have to take the seats out and be laying with my head on the brake pedal...gonna be painful I'm sure.

There's no one locally that I can find that knows how to do this work so it's up to me.

I have read the manual but I was hoping to get some insight from someone that has done this before. If you have any tricks I'd sure appreciate a heads-up.

Either way thanks.
 
No you don't have to take the seats out or lay in the floor and reach up.
With a little patience and the right tools you can remove this panel.
 
From one GY3 71 Demon 340 owner to another, I am 60% of my way thru replacing my rallye dash right now. I think this is the third time I've taken a dash out and there are many steps and tricks but just follow your notes. Best advice I can give, have a note pad and everything you touch, write it down. Colors, which side, is it at 10o'clock or 2 o'clock, etc, bag everything, take off steering wheel, drop down column and if you're concerned about the chrome plating on the bottomside of that dash bezel, tape it off, cover the column with towels, you'll have to disconnect all three heater/defroster cables. I think, no, I know, there are 12 things to disconnect on my dash. if you want to pm me, we can talk on phone some day this week. Paul
 

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Side note to those with bad backs, I've just been told about my L5 S1 beein' wonkie. I discovered a real trick for workin under the dash; I take a standard beer cooler on wheels, lay towel on it and it's the perfect height to lay on your back for under dash work.:blob::cheers:
 
pauls340 said:
From one GY3 71 Demon 340 owner to another, I am 60% of my way thru replacing my rallye dash right now. I think this is the third time I've taken a dash out and there are many steps and tricks but just follow your notes. Best advice I can give, have a note pad and everything you touch, write it down. Colors, which side, is it at 10o'clock or 2 o'clock, etc, bag everything, take off steering wheel, drop down column and if you're concerned about the chrome plating on the bottomside of that dash bezel, tape it off, cover the column with towels, you'll have to disconnect all three heater/defroster cables. I think, no, I know, there are 12 things to disconnect on my dash. if you want to pm me, we can talk on phone some day this week. Paul
Click to expand...


I don't disconnect heater cables either. Everyone has to figure out what works best for them.
 
RedFish said:
No you don't have to take the seats out or lay in the floor and reach up.
With a little patience and the right tools you can remove this panel.
Click to expand...

Red, dammit, it just depends on how old, agile, crippled, or big you are. For some of us, the short trip with an air ratchet underneath saves hours of blew language "up above"

When I was only 45, maybe even 55, this would not have been a big problem. Now.................
 
To clarify... When removing the rally instrument panel, to leave the climate controller in the car. Loosen the allen screws and remove the 2 lever ends/knobs.
Set all 3 controller to centered position. That part is more critical coming back through at reassembly. Having the bezel out far enough to reach behind the right end,
3/8 X 1/4 drive socket, 3 inch extension, disc ratchet, remove 2 small bolts that hold the controller to the inst' housing. Leave the controller in the car along with the head light, switch, wiper switch, etc..
See for most, the speedometer cable is one of the first things disconnected. For me that one of the last things disconnected. Again, everyone has their own method to the madness. My way isn't the best way and certainly isn't the fastest way.
 
Redfish, I think when I reassemble I'm going to attached the heater controls first. I think that will limit the chance of scratching the new chrome plate.
 
More common errors installing new bezels... Over tighten the screws that attach the pot metal instrument housing and you'll see dimples in the face side of the bezel. at those screw locations.
Use improper tools tightening switch bezel nuts and really screw it up.

Other assembly errors... leave any of the 4 gaskets at indicator lamps out and you'll have light misdirected.
Get locations of Oil and TEMP gauges wrong and you'll take it all apart again. That mistake is very easy to make. I've seen all these errors 3 or more times.
I've seen brand new bezels broken by the right seat back too.
There are more. I wont type them all here.
 
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