I’m currently trying to resurrect a car that has been off the road since 2000. Bought a new Coil for it, but see that the existing one is in a really awkward place butted up against the engine block and behind the Alternator. I’m guessing I would need to get the Alternator out in order to access the Coil? If someone has already asked this question in another post, please feel free to send the link so this doesn’t become repetitive. Thanks
1972 Plymouth Valiant 225 Ignition Coil question
- Thread starter Maddog55
- Start date
-
I can have my coil off and back on in under ten minutes. You have to have the right tools.
Same car and location? How do you even access the clamp that holds the coil?
64 Valiant, 225. Yup. right behind the alternator. I remove the whole clamp, coil and all. You either need a wobble drive extension or a universal socket. Easy peasy.
Don't forget to disconnect the battery, because it's REAL easy to hit the positive post on the alternator with an extension.
Borgward? lol
This car was taken off the road in 2000. Sat in original owners driveway until I bought it from the family in 2022. I bought it as a project car. Never heard it running. Sat in my garage for 3 years and now after replacing gas tank and a few other things, have it out in my driveway to continue working on the engine. For all I know, that Coil is original. But not chancing any old parts that developed over 20 years of grease, dirt and the elements from sitting outdoors.
I don't see the problem. I just now went out to the shed and looked at the 74 Val. This was painful, because it doesn't run, and I had to "shinny" between the front of the 67 and the front of the Val, and then bend down at a poor angle with a flashlight. I am 77
Wait until cold, and remove/ loosen rad cap to be sure pressure is relieved. This will allow the rad hose to compress so you can stick a tool past it
Remove ground from the battery, and remove the alternator. I always remove the wiring, which generally means a 7/16 socket, because if you drop it or it falls, you can damage the wring.
You need a good socket set, both shallow and deep well. You need some extensions, a 1", a 3", maybe what is called a "wobble" extension(s). This have the inboard end of the square cut at a taper so the socket can wobble just a bit, acting sort of like a swivel.
Depending on how your ratchet is built, I am guessing a 1" extension, maybe a 3" and a shallow socket.
Example of a wobble extension. Nowadays, EVERYbody sells them, from Horrid Fright on up
Wait until cold, and remove/ loosen rad cap to be sure pressure is relieved. This will allow the rad hose to compress so you can stick a tool past it
Remove ground from the battery, and remove the alternator. I always remove the wiring, which generally means a 7/16 socket, because if you drop it or it falls, you can damage the wring.
You need a good socket set, both shallow and deep well. You need some extensions, a 1", a 3", maybe what is called a "wobble" extension(s). This have the inboard end of the square cut at a taper so the socket can wobble just a bit, acting sort of like a swivel.
Depending on how your ratchet is built, I am guessing a 1" extension, maybe a 3" and a shallow socket.
Example of a wobble extension. Nowadays, EVERYbody sells them, from Horrid Fright on up
Last edited:
Why are you removing bolts you don't have to? Just remove the two bolts holding the coil bracket on. You're making a simple job hard.
To remove the alternator, simply remove the 5/16 bolt (1/2" head) from the adjuster, and then remove the large bolt that lets the alternator tilt on the bracket.
You may not even have to remove the large pivot bolt. After removing the adjuster bolt and slipping off the belt, you may be able to move it upwards and out of the way plenty enough.
You may not even have to remove the large pivot bolt. After removing the adjuster bolt and slipping off the belt, you may be able to move it upwards and out of the way plenty enough.
Ant
Well-Known Member
Use the force, and it shall come free.
Also, I changed the location of my coil and mounted it to the fender well, it's easy to do if you have the correct bracket. I re-routed the same harness too, so the wiring stays nice and neat.
Also, I changed the location of my coil and mounted it to the fender well, it's easy to do if you have the correct bracket. I re-routed the same harness too, so the wiring stays nice and neat.
Seriously? I can SEE BOTH of them in your pictures.
See the white marks I put on either side of the coil. Those marks are ON TOP of the coil bracket bolt heads.
They have 1/2" heads. I use 1/4" drive stuff. A long extension and a 1/4 drive 1/2 universal socket. 3/8 stuff will fit, but it's a bit tighter.
Here is what I use. 1/4 drive 1/2 universal socket, on long and one short 1/4 drive extension. In these pictures, the socket is ON the heads of both bolts.
...and if you're worryin about how you're gonna get the bolts started back, take some paper and fold it a time or two, stick it in the socket and stick the bolt in the socket so the papre is between the bolt head and the socket. That will wedge the bolt in the socket and hold it there until you start and tighten it.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Here's the adjuster bolt 67Dart is talking about
That lets the alternator pivot so the belt can be tightened or replaced.
When you get done, the wire harness should be supported. That's what the bracket on the back of the alternator is for. The wiring will last longer that way.
BTW. What makes you think it needs a new coil?
Hey Rusty first off, thanks for showing me exactly where the bolts were and what you used to get them out. Honestly, this car sat outside for 22 years exposed to all weather conditions. I had to spray Gumout and scrape with a flat head screwdriver to clean over a quarter inch of grease and crud hiding the bolt heads.
I’m going to simplify reinstalling the new one at one of the suggestions and mount it to the inner side wall and not back on the engine block. Will have to splice in some extended wires to hook up to it, but it will be cleaner and less hassle than putting it back where it was. I’m just a novice when it comes to mechanical stuff. But I appreciate everyone’s advice.
-
Similar threads
