JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Third coat of paint has been applied. Its way to wet (rain) to work outside, will get on the assembly tomorrow.
1973 Plymouth Duster repair and rebuild
- Thread starter JohnFM3
- Start date
-
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Making headway. Waiting for a response to questions regarding HDK upper control arms. After which, the front end will be on the ground.
Want to hear something crazy, my Classic Industries lower ball joints are sold with Nylon Locking Nuts instead of Castle nuts and cotter pins. Apparently that is the way its done. Still torque to 115 ft lb.
Want to hear something crazy, my Classic Industries lower ball joints are sold with Nylon Locking Nuts instead of Castle nuts and cotter pins. Apparently that is the way its done. Still torque to 115 ft lb.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
We have a front end assembled, both sides. Now to build the hard lines and get the car on the ground.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Are there any recommendations for setting up the proportioning valve in a new install?
mygasser
Well-Known Member
anywhere near you have a set of brake testing rollers? that'll be the 'best' way as you can test, adjust, test etc.
neil.
neil.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
I have no clue. I will have to look it up.
You could probably drill a hole through the thread and put a split pin for safety i have had a nylock come off on another car and collapse the suspension when doing a U Turn. Put a nut on drill the hole then take the nut off to clean the thread
-
Similar threads
