1974 D100 frame off build up

[Dumpty]

I am doing things properly to keep spring rates right in the rear, I won't need to notch my frame as I won't be loading weight in the bed. After some more research I may be able to weld in the threaded rings for K772 ball joint into the van lower control arms as an option if I want to keep stock front coil springs. But with the MII LCA I can run coil overs from QA1 or something similar. The MII spindle using the MII bearing is also fine, there is a $800 kit for Wildwood disc brakes and calipers for the stock style spindle. I want to demonstrate something new, this isn't just about taken the beaten path for my own needs. I made a small business making gauge panels for these trucks because I made my own path I want to expand my contribution to the Mopar world by doing something no one else is doing. And the more pushback I get the better!

 

[go-fish]

I believe it’s CPP that makes a C5 hub and sealed bearing for the mustang II spindle.

 

[Dumpty]

I believe it’s CPP that makes a C5 hub and sealed bearing for the mustang II spindle.

Correct, that's who I was looking at. The only downside is needing 17" wheels. But it's an option, Corvette brakes are very light weight, and an affordable way to get a big brake kit. I think I will go with the MII bearing style and get the Wildwood 11 inch brake kit from summit racing for my build, but I would like to gather all the parts for a tangeable demonstration! It could open up a new door for options for those looking for more. Also I like that you can option all of this to use the 5x4.5 bolt pattern, or the 5x5.5

 

[Dumpty]

Well, $961. And a wilwood rear kit for the next rear axle is available as well. I have plans for the universal wilwood booster and master cylinder with a proportion valve. The entire brake system is being rebuilt from scratch, on an upcoming video

 

[Dumpty]

I lost the shop. But I also got a new shop. I dont know what can and cant be done at this moment. Here's the update video, and Im selling a toolbox, its at the end of the video.

 

[Dumpty]

I believe I forgotten to post here on the update. But Ill keep it short! I got the front chassis off a wrecked truck and I can start making a Jig for making control arms to work with those Mustang 2 drop spindles. I have to use Wilwood pro spindles unless I find another MII spindle with a bolt on steering arm. I havent put a lot of effort into looking for any yet. I have to extend the steering arm out a few inches to match the D100/D150 steering arm. Another Idea would be to figure out a rack n pinion gear for this kit, and If I do, I will always have updates on my progress! As of now I have a chassis jig, I have cheap drop spindles to use as part of the jig when making control arms, and I have some custom made hub adapters I made for doing the early and late wheel bolt patterns. Still need to get brake rotors and bearings, Balljoints and threaded adapters, and a cheap coil over kit so that I can remove the spring and test suspension articulation

 

[Dumpty]

Got an update on my side project. The jig was completed, and I have a rough draft of control arms for Wilwood MII pro spindles and brake kit. Im still gathering things to bring about a final part in my hands, and I got a couple of Cummins powered trucks to thrash on with these for strength testing. The only part I dont have a solid answer for yet are the coil overs, I have 750 lb springs on QA1 coil overs for GM vehicles in mind, and I think the placement of the lower mount on the lower control arm is what I need to dial in, and possibly make adjustable depending on the front axle weight of each truck. I may be able to figure in a rack n pinion setup as well, and if I do, It will be on youtube, and here.

 

[Dumpty]

Im getting somewhere with these control arms. And I am very unqualified to be using a CNC plasma cutter lol

 

[Dumpty]

Got an update.

The plasma cutting machine on the CNC table is bust. I just started getting it to cut decent but then it would stop cutting through. Tells me the amperage was dropping as it was in use.

I updated the design and will have 3 basic packages for this setup if testing goes well: A stand alone upper control arm set for guys (and gals) running van LCAs, and an upper and lower control arm package for MII spindles, and for OEM D100/D150 spindles, both will include rearward facing adjustable strut rods. Next week I will have the Dodge spindle option Control Arm Package in hand, because they are currently cutting through tried and true SendCutSend. This set is going to be tested on a mid 70s Club Cab D100 with a Cummins swap. If these hold up well to that thrashing, I will offer them finally.

 

[Dumpty]

Got an update, Im one step closer now.

 

[JDMopar]

You're moving right along! If that passenger side exhaust manifold on the 440 isn't cracked, those are kind of coveted by people who like the old Dodge motor homes and vans. Judging by how well that poor old motor homie was taken care of.....it stands a good chance of being cracked if it got too hot. The 727 has a car tailshaft housing on it, if it matters. I'm looking forward to seeing how a running, driving D100 sits with your setup installed. A friend of mine has a 78 D100 that has van LCA's and an axle flipped 8 3/4 installed. It sits perfect and has a 440/727 combo. He's never driven it enough to know if it has alignment issues, even though he had the front end aligned when he dropped it.

 

[Dumpty]

My boss is all over it. More cool stuff will come, I'm gonna start filming my side jobs. Hopefully an A body is in my future. If I keep doing side jobs like I am I'll have plenty saved up. Looking forward to March Meets this year to hunt for some Mopar stuff

 

[JDMopar]

Looks like a lot of RV's sitting around in the back 40. Do you work at an RV shop?

 

[Dumpty]

It's a chassis and brake shop, we work on RVs and trailers. My boss is a huge Mopar nut so I fit in good. All the trucks there are his with the exception of the other 2 guys that have a truck or two also

 

[Dumpty]

Boy do I have progress updates that are months behind on here. Ive been a bit more active on RCC as far as updates go and Ive been doing nearly everything I set my sights on. Im at the final stages of my control arms, something I need to finish and install on my chassis so I can move it around and continue the work on my truck. Ill just post some pictures of where I am as of the last 2 weeks. The control arm design had been updated 2 times since last you seen here. This current set is the most refined so far. I should have the Viking coil overs Monday or Wednesday, they were ordered a week ago. The Wilwood M2 pro spindle and brake package is 100% assembled and ready to bolt in as soon as the control arms are installed.

 

[j par]

Would'a, could'a, should'a.....
$850 to have the frame baked @400° to soften the engine grease and oils, then power washed, sand blasted, powder coated primer, powder coated metallic silver, and finally, what you see that looks like white.Is the clear coat ready to go in the oven...

The amount of money and time it would have took me to get this even clean enough to rattle can... i don't even want to think about it...

 

[Dumpty]

Thats beautiful, and I wish prices like that existed where I am. I was quoted $600 to do 4 wheels a year ago, I cant imagine a chassis.

 

[j par]

Thread '74 power wagon dream truck...' 74 power wagon dream truck...

 

[Dumpty]

Ive gotten quite far the last few months. The front suspension is nearly completed, including rack and pinion. Heres whats going on right now:

Uppers and lowers are completed, Im moving on to the testing phase, and I have 2 test trucks ready to go be test mules since mines still being built. One is a SWB big block using van lowers and my uppers, and the other is a Cummins swapped D100 club cab going to use my uppers and lowers with the D100 spindles and QA1s. If my arms can handle those 2 trucks fine then Ill start building them to sell.

I am about to finish my rack and pinion conversion. I have a plate being cut right now. I had a thin test piece cut and it fit perfect, just adjusted a few parts to make it longer. I have details on the geometry that I will wait to share once I have the rack installed. Basically its the same length pivot to pivot and the same location as the factory center link, the only difference is the Mustang 2 spindles are a little shorter on the steering arms, but this will work with D100 spindles too. Just dont want to over share when I dont have 100% of the details yet. I also will have details on the suspension geometry as well. I have been filming all the work Ive been doing since November and will compile it into a 30-50 minute video once Im satisfied with the suspension and steering on Dumpty.

And yes, that is an Aces EFI Killshot 2 on the oddly colored LA360 lol

 

[volaredon]

I took have an older Dodge truck that is down to the bare frame for resto, mine is an 83 D250.
To each is own I guess but lowering them seems to be "the thing" these days and I definitely don't get the big attraction to lowering a pickup truck.
It drives me crazy and often otherwise beautiful trucks that (to me) are ruined by doing that. Another one that drives me crazy is the people who put 20-22" wheels on them

 

[Dumpty]

Well there is a difference between a little lowering, and slammed. My tires will not be tucked under the fenders and will have a slight gap. All in the name of autocross, I need some travel, and no rubbing. The control arms I designed will give me proper geometry, more caster, and they are far lighter than the stocks. Other people will slam their trucks and put 22s for looks, I agree, it looks trash to me.

 

[volaredon]

I had mine sandblasted bare, it came back from blast with a 2 part Sherwin Williams industrial/ marine primer, I went to the local Sherwin Williams store and asked their "guru" what would be best to put over that particular primer and I went with his suggestion, another 2 part Sherwin Williams paint in semi gloss black as my top coat. My top coat is $500/gallon for the parts a and b, but I had help with someone being able to get me the S-W employee discount of half price.
It came out looking OEM Stock looking.
Not that that was what I was going for as I'm not restoring mine to showroom condition by a good ways.... My engine and trans weren't thought of yet when my truck was new.
It cost me $350 for the blast and primer job. And $250 for the top coat.
I probably could have gone with the primer used as "good enough" except that the primer is said to not being very good with UV exposure. As the primer is said to be a "15-20 year paint" but eventually fades out with UV. Probably not too big of an issue being a frame that will be hidden by all the sheet metal of a truck body. But paint jail isn't being very good to me and I don't know how long before they would have the body ready to go onto the frame.... I do have a bunch of smalls blasted and ready to powdercoat but I just got blown out of the water for a quote to have that done so I bought the gun and a bunch of powder from Eastwood and am currently working on getting an electric household oven to bake it. So fat I have less than half of what I was quoted into everything powdercoating related I have bought and what I have bought will still be here to do more coating in the future. And I know there are gonna be other parts I'm gonna want powdercoated as my truck project continues. Plus my garden tractor stuff...

 

[volaredon]

Parts I plan on powdercoating are misc frame brackets, headlight buckets, hood hinges, door hinges and calipers to begin with. Possibly bumper brackets, shackles and such.

 

[volaredon]

And this is what my frame currently looks like.... Taken the day I painted it I have brand new springs all the way around to put on, stainless brake and fuel lines, the steering box to put back that's completely rebuilt, (I sent the gearbox out for that) and all new ball joints, bushings, tie rods and such. All old stock USA made MOOG with lots of dust on the boxes...

 

[volaredon]

Back to your thread definitely not trying to take over someone else's