1974 Dodge Dart Sport rebuild

[TF360]

Got to have a good list to stay organized! Can't wait to see that yellow POP!

 

[Builderguy]

Managed to get a 10 hour swing at it. Started with the wheel arch. This is the sanding form I made using the earlier spreader as a template. This worked great.

Now the bodyline took a lot longer and several thin coats of glaze, but it worked out just fine. Hard to see, should have taken another pic. Note that there was a secondary dent caused buy the impact of whatever it was that smacked into this quarter.

Now the other side also took some time and several applications, but the guide coat will tell if it needs more work. It is just fine the primer can go on, too bad it is raining and I don't paint when it is raining. Just me!!

I use a lot of body tools, old and new, but this is my favorite one. Solid and makes things flatter than a, never mind, it makes things flat, but is very unforgiving!

 

[TF360]

Craftsman skills.

 

[Builderguy]

Got busy so I didn't have a chance to post. Here are a bunch of progress shots:

Top of hood and trunk lid in epoxy

And in high build

Underside of hood and trunk lid in epoxy and high build

Had to glaze a little on the body line

The body line and I were not getting along, under intense gloss you could see a slight wave

Had enough, time to make a "perfect line" or at least straight. Tape off where the line goes and spray with high build.

Looks like this when the tape is pulled, now just have to wait and do the lower edge. Then I can sand it straight, maybe!

 

[Builderguy]

Round number, I don't know, but the body line is pretty damn close now. Just one little low spot! Then a final sand and spray it down to see how it looks in the bright light.

 

[Builderguy]

Time to address a large/deep dent in the lower rocker area. It is hard to show how deep it was in a pic but I needed to use the large studs (I never use the large studs) to pull this dent out. The smaller ones just kept pulling off. One tuff area of the body.

Switched to the large studs.

Close as I can get without tearing up the metal.

 

[Builderguy]

On to some dents in the fender. Pulled out deep one and skim coated/pounded out the very small ones.

 

[Builderguy]

Started taking down the rear end. The brakes are like brand new! Maybe a brake job before being put up for it's long 26 year nap. Makes me wonder if the PO actually rebuilt the engine before storing it. We will find out shortly.

 

[mygasser]

Time to address a large/deep dent in the lower rocker area. It is hard to show how deep it was in a pic but I needed to use the large studs (I never use the large studs) to pull this dent out. The smaller ones just kept pulling off. One tuff area of the body.

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Switched to the large studs.

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Close as I can get without tearing up the metal.

View attachment 1716424811

that looks fine . the only way to get it flatter would be to cut that section out and replace it with flat sheet. not worth it imo.
neil.

 

[Builderguy]

FINALLY, SUCCESS!!!!! I may not be that talented, but I am persistent. I can now live with both sides. Don't mind the dust in the wax and grease remover, I just need the body line right. What a PITA that was.

Yes, I see the small dent at 6 o'clock low, that will be addressed shortly!! I got a little tunnel vision on the body line.

 

[Builderguy]

Fenders are going to need a little more work. Not much, but without using guide coat you can see the low areas. I can shoot it again with high build and see how that turns out.
Should not need any more glaze!

 

[Builderguy]

Fenders in need of guide coat.

 

[Builderguy]

Quarters waiting for their guide coat.

 

[Builderguy]

I really like a southern car! The rockers are in great shape, just one small repair.

 

[Builderguy]

Riddle me this Batman, why does it take an hour to get four of these bolts out?

 

[TF360]

They are completely rusted out and won't come off

 

[Builderguy]

Got the trunk and floor pan cleaned up and sprayed with a white sealer. The white base tends to make the lemon twist pop a little more. Seam sealing is done on both the trunk and the floor pan. Was about to spray some color when I noticed both strike side jambs were cracked. Ground them down to bare metal, drilled a small hole to stop the crack, welded up both cracks, and ground them down. A little epoxy and 2K and it will be like it never happened. I guess 51 years can cause a little fatigue.

 

[Builderguy]

End result.

 

[Builderguy]

Let's twist again, like we did last summer!!

 

[Builderguy]

New list time! If you keep moving they can't slow you down.

 

[Builderguy]

Man it has been hot here! This is the first time that I had a need for a SLOW reducer. I usually use fast or medium. I did a final sand on the underside of the hood and truck and then sprayed both with a white sealer. That went on fine. Next I went to spray the Lemon Twist enamel and it did not want to lay flat. The second coat I moved the gun a little closer and slowed the pass speed. Better, but still not good enough. I needed a slow reducer but it was Saturday and the paint supply shop was closed. Had to double up on the amount of reducer and finally got it to lay flat on the third coat. Guess I know what I have to buy on Monday. These are probably the last things I can paint without setting up the booth. Maybe the engine bay will be enamel, not sure yet.

 

[Builderguy]

On to the engine. Dropped the heads off to the machine shop and started the tear down of the block. I did not remove the oil slinger, the previous builder forgot it.
Overall it does not look too bad for sitting 26 years but the chain is a little tired. Can't feel any ring ridge and walls are pretty much scratch/scuff free. I will know more once the pistons are out and I can measure for size, taper, and out of round. Then the bearings can tell their story.

 

[Builderguy]

Pistons are out and the rod bearings were not that bad looking (will change them) and were .001 undersized. Probably PO had the crank polished. I will also have it polished, measured, and probably use a "XX" bearing , oh wait, things took a turn for the worse on the last cap (main). Not good, taking it to the shop in the AM to see just how bad it is. Fixable, just cost more $$$$$. Now I just have to make sure I figure out why it jacked itself. Oil pump?, IDK, as only one bearing was messed up, but I will find out. Anyway, it did not run long like this or it would have polished itself. There were no pieces parts in the pump or the pan, or anywhere else. Hmmmmmm Time to get serious!

 

[TF360]

That yellow looks really good! Yea Bearing pretty scuffed up. Is it a factory 360 car?

 

[Builderguy]

That yellow looks really good! Yea Bearing pretty scuffed up. Is it a factory 360 car?

NO, it was a 318 car from the factory. It got the 360 sometime before 1999 as that is the last time it was on the road. No idea who put it in or why it was taken off the road, but now I have a much better idea of why it was parked. Just tore apart the oil pump, and it is junk. Have not found metal anywhere else, so far. It will take a bunch of brake clean to clear all the oil passages out just to make sure. Hope they give a case discount.