e-body frames are even the same , just different foam , I used 73 cuda frames for mine and used foam for a-body , turned out great , your car is coming alone , nice work
1974 Dodge Dart Sport rebuild
- Thread starter Builderguy
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Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Time to get something done! Cleaned the engine bay with thinner and then grease and wax remover. Ready to spay epoxy now, which can go direct to metal, followed by high build 2K primer, which can NOT go direct to metal. At least according to the data sheet. Anyway, on to spraying. I use my oldest Iwata spray gun. It is very grubby on the outside, but it is clean on the inside. I have a second gun (same make and model) that is only used for BC and clear coat. Someday soon I will add another gun that is only for CLEAR.
Ready:
This is the PPG product I use:
And the Wort Chiller used to keep the airline dry.
On my spray gun, around 23 ish PSIG at the gun gives this spray pattern. That is with fan wide open and fluid flow wide open.
Ready:
This is the PPG product I use:
And the Wort Chiller used to keep the airline dry.
On my spray gun, around 23 ish PSIG at the gun gives this spray pattern. That is with fan wide open and fluid flow wide open.
Last edited:
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
I know I am not spraying in a both, but that will come after everything has been epoxy and 2K sprayed. After that I can stop work and build the booth.
After letting the epoxy air dry for 30 minutes I can spay over it with 2K high build, this is what I use:
I increase the air pressure about 5 psig as this stuff is pretty thick and will get thicker as time passes. You only get around 20 minutes or so of pot life when mixed as a spray filler.
That increase in pressure gives this spray pattern:
Looks like this when done:
Now this area can sit while I work on the rest of the car.
After letting the epoxy air dry for 30 minutes I can spay over it with 2K high build, this is what I use:
I increase the air pressure about 5 psig as this stuff is pretty thick and will get thicker as time passes. You only get around 20 minutes or so of pot life when mixed as a spray filler.
That increase in pressure gives this spray pattern:
Looks like this when done:
Now this area can sit while I work on the rest of the car.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
I really do have a "clean" gun.
And the primer gun gets a good cleaning after every use.
I even found time to clean the gauge off!
And the primer gun gets a good cleaning after every use.
I even found time to clean the gauge off!
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
I have decided on a color, Y1 Lemon Twist, which was what the 73 RR was sprayed with. But that was Deltron 2000 (high dollar) not shop-line (lower dollar). We will see if triple the price is really worth it. I want this car to stand out so the bright yellow with black stripes, hood scoop, and interior should do the trick. I know it is not original, but neither is the motor, so I guess it will be okay.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
I really wanted to see how close the quarter panel repair was so I took a minute to check it.
Cleaned it up and applied some filler. Not too bad, a little high in one spot but an easy fix. Pretty happy with it as it won't take but a few hours to finish up. That is for later, I was just curious.
You can see that I did not grind a couple of welds far enough so now I have a choice to make. I can grind them down now, or I can use a pick hammer and force the metal down.
I have some time to think about that one.
I did sand out the rust on the inner roof (from the mice urine) and treated it with a rust stop.
Cleaned it up and applied some filler. Not too bad, a little high in one spot but an easy fix. Pretty happy with it as it won't take but a few hours to finish up. That is for later, I was just curious.
You can see that I did not grind a couple of welds far enough so now I have a choice to make. I can grind them down now, or I can use a pick hammer and force the metal down.
I have some time to think about that one.
I did sand out the rust on the inner roof (from the mice urine) and treated it with a rust stop.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Just an FYI. A long long time ago, I checked into applying "Bondo" over bare metal. My research revealed that applying it over bare metal was the preferred method. I now see that 3M's TDS on "Bondo" actual instructs you to take the damaged area down to "bare metal".
That is what I have done for over 47 years and that is what I will continue to do. If you want to use epoxy first, knock yourself out, I am only telling you my method.
That is what I have done for over 47 years and that is what I will continue to do. If you want to use epoxy first, knock yourself out, I am only telling you my method.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
some great info there 
neil.
neil.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
I decided to do a combination of grinding and hammering down the high spots. Then I put on a second coat of filler. Once sanded down it looked like this:
Next was a coat of 3M Platinum Plus Finishing Glaze:
Sanded down it begins to take shape using tape as a guide for the body line:
Another coat of glaze and it is getting closer.
One more light coat and it should be there, at least enough for the 2K filler to finish it up.
More pics to follow.
Next was a coat of 3M Platinum Plus Finishing Glaze:
Sanded down it begins to take shape using tape as a guide for the body line:
Another coat of glaze and it is getting closer.
One more light coat and it should be there, at least enough for the 2K filler to finish it up.
More pics to follow.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Continuing on, the right side of the quarter panel was marked up to match the left side. This will give me the guide marks I need to make the two sides match. I will use a contour gauge tool on the good side, and use it as an exact guide for the damaged side. Matching every 2" will give me a pretty good mirror to how the panel should be.
At this time I noticed a bigger problem. There is another linear dent, not the one outlined above. This one is lower and next to a descending body line. This will be a hard one to fix being so close to another body line!
At this time I noticed a bigger problem. There is another linear dent, not the one outlined above. This one is lower and next to a descending body line. This will be a hard one to fix being so close to another body line!
Great progress!
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
You ever seem to have one of those days
When everyone's on your case
From your teacher all the way down to your best girlfriend?
Today is one of those days, at least with this car! We are not playing well together, not communicating, not listening to each other, and definitely not on the same page when it comes to body lines.
I made a pattern from the other side, put it down on the metal, and went to town with my head held high. For about an hour, anyway. This sucks, she waited this long to tell me the body line was wrong. My original line is black, the correct line is GREEN! Dang, all that work for nothing. Time to walk away and do some reflection. Maybe take a day off, Saturday looks like it should be a great day to do body work. We will see. LOL
When everyone's on your case
From your teacher all the way down to your best girlfriend?
Today is one of those days, at least with this car! We are not playing well together, not communicating, not listening to each other, and definitely not on the same page when it comes to body lines.
I made a pattern from the other side, put it down on the metal, and went to town with my head held high. For about an hour, anyway. This sucks, she waited this long to tell me the body line was wrong. My original line is black, the correct line is GREEN! Dang, all that work for nothing. Time to walk away and do some reflection. Maybe take a day off, Saturday looks like it should be a great day to do body work. We will see. LOL
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Much better day, today. That will do donkey, that will do!
Really hard to show contour in a photo, but that is what I have to work on next.
Really hard to show contour in a photo, but that is what I have to work on next.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Theses first two shots are of the "good/original" side. There is a slight contour before the body line. My best attempt at showing this.
Trying to match this on the other side. Not a big difference, but if you are going to do it, you might as well do it to the best that your abilities allow. We will see how it turns out.
Right now it looks like this:
Trying to match this on the other side. Not a big difference, but if you are going to do it, you might as well do it to the best that your abilities allow. We will see how it turns out.
Right now it looks like this:
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Getting closer!
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
The main body line on the quarter panel is not a straight line, not perfectly horizontal. You guys/gals here on "A" bodies probably already knew that! After playing around trying to get a guide line set up, I had to stop and go "high tech". If you followed my RR build on "B" bodies you know I am a builder. I retired, but I kept a lot of my tools. One was the laser level. Set that puppy up and found that the line is straight from the back of the car until mark #9 just ahead of mid wheel arch (the dark vertical line), it then drops 1/2" (in a straight line) to the door edge. I tried to take a pic using the laser lens. I guess you can kind of see it, maybe, sort of.
Anyway, I set things up on the other side and added a tape line, that matches the "good" side of the car. Now I can work that damaged wheel arch area and know the body line is correct.
Anyway, I set things up on the other side and added a tape line, that matches the "good" side of the car. Now I can work that damaged wheel arch area and know the body line is correct.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Getting pretty close to the correct shape. Need to bring the lip out a bit more, but it is getting there. The hit it took was worse than it looked, pushed the metal in at a spot that is pretty solid. It will be repaired, just taking more time than originally estimated.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Got tired of looking at that muffler/exhaust hanger lying on my bench so I welded up the holes left by the screws put in by a PO. I know the four original spotweld holes would probably be fine but I was there and so was the welder, sooooo! I did not want it to break loose.
Speaking of breaking loose, do you see the two strips of tape holding the bracket? This is the best duct/duck type tape I have ever used. Maybe too good. Once placed, it is there to stay. Plus, it is made in the USA!
Speaking of breaking loose, do you see the two strips of tape holding the bracket? This is the best duct/duck type tape I have ever used. Maybe too good. Once placed, it is there to stay. Plus, it is made in the USA!
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Back to that wheel arch repair. I scuffed up the other side to get a clear body line and then marked it. Wasn't sure if it changed size along its length. In the area I need to repair, it does not.
With that done, I found a gauge that help me replicate it on the damaged side.
Transfer a line to the other side.
Only one small spot that needs a little more glaze.
Put another coat on and done for the day!
With that done, I found a gauge that help me replicate it on the damaged side.
Transfer a line to the other side.
Only one small spot that needs a little more glaze.
Put another coat on and done for the day!
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Got the flat where I want it to be, now for the curve. Made a paper template and transferred that to a spreader. Checking the repair, it is close but I think I can get it closer! Using that spreader I should be able to get it back to factory specs, LOL.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
at least your hard work means the arch doesn't look like a threepenny bit (look it up) as some do once repaired
neil.
neil.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
LOL, I did have to look it up and you are correct, I hope.at least your hard work means the arch doesn't look like a threepenny bit (look it up) as some do once repaired
neil.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
One step forward and one step back, didn't see this firewall dent earlier. No idea how it was missed. Looks like someone hit it hard with a hammer, maybe to clearance something. IDK
Anyway, the boss and I fixed it.
Anyway, the boss and I fixed it.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Forgot, new list is out!
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