1974 Duster Idler arm question,

[Duster_71]

I’m getting my, new to me, duster ready for inspection and was checking over the steering and suspension since there was a lot of play in the wheel. Was thinking I needed to adjust the steering gear box and possibly have to change a tie rod or two. Well further inspection uncovered an issue that kinda bothers me! A turn of the wheel showed some major up and down movement in the idler arm where it mounts to the k-frame. It looks like there should be a spacer or shim on the top side of the idler arm inside the mount, looks like an inch or so??? Then I started to wonder if the k-frame was from something else, i.e. big block, and needed a different idler are. Any thoughts or suggestions?

v/r
Ron

 

[RedFish]

Another thread showed a improved design for that idler arm and spacer.
Might have been a Moog part, I forget.

 

[player1up]

Ron, Does the idler arm slide up and down on the bolt or wobble up and down?
The tabs on the k-frame do sit a ways off the idler arm, but the arm has a sleeve that the bolt goes through. Yes there are shims / washers that come with a new one to make sure it's level with the pitman arm.

There should not be an inch of travel. Are the tabs parallel to each other?

As for the k-frame being out of a different car, the Duster never came with a big block and the differences between /6 and v8 K frames are just for the motor mounts.
It could be from a different year. The 74 should have a center link with the holes for the idler and tie rod end in the same direction. Earlier center links had the idler hole and tie rod hole at 90° from each other.

 

[Duster_71]

Ron, Does the idler arm slide up and down on the bolt or wobble up and down?

There should not be an inch of travel. Are the tabs parallel to each other?

As for the k-frame being out of a different car, the Duster never came with a big block and the differences between /6 and v8 K frames are just for the motor mounts.
It could be from a different year. The 74 should have a center link with the holes for the idler and tie rod end in the same direction. Earlier center links had the idler hole and tie rod hole at 90° from each other.

"Does the idler arm slide up and down on the bolt or wobble up and down?"

The arm slides up and down on the bolt, no wobble, thats why I wondered if there were missing shims or spacers. This does cause major movement between the connection points on the center link. Seems like the space between the mounting tabs are a bit excessive, but they appear to be parallel.

The car does have headers and it looks like at some point that the inner tie rod end was hitting/scraping the header. Could they have possibly left the shims out on purpose so it would move and therefore be able to avoid the header? Seems they would of just heated and bent the header a little bit to create the necessary room.

If I recall, the center link connections are inline. I was thinking big block k-frame because I was under the assumption that there were big block k-frames that would bolt up to the duster.

 

[TrailBeast]

Just space it away from the header and take the slop out of it.
I don't think it would even change the tow much.

The washer for spacing is going to be the hardest part, as they are a little odd sized ID for a washer.

 

[67Dart273]

Duster you need to be CAREFUL with this!!!!

Here's why............

"Legit" IE factory or "good" idler arms like Moog simply bolt in, and tighten up with bolt and nut. When the bolt it tight, the spacer in the arm automatically makes it "tight."

In the above case, "if there is play" then either the bolt / nut has come loose, or there is wear in the idler.

I HAVE a cheap off--brand arm that is DIFFERENT. The bearing setup in this arm is completely C.S. It requires proper washers to space the assembly in the brackets.........A POOR DESIGN AND NOT FACTORY EQUIVALENT

I got this "used" out of a junker, and it had not been properly installed

If there is ANY question about this, get the bolt out, pull it out of the bracket, and shoot some good photos and post them.

Either that or pony up the money and put a Spicer / Moog in it.

 

[Duster_71]

Well I figured out after looking at a new idler arm that the one on my car is missing the two smaller rubber/foam bushing and the washers, it does have the one thicker bushing on the bottom. The idler arm seems solid (no wobble) just moves up and down so I think I will add some washers to replace the missing bushings and washers. Do any of you foresee an issue doing this?

 

[67Dart273]

YES (I see a problem) Post a photo please. At least one (both) of the brackets on the car "bend." This means that if the idler is properly built AND COMPLETE, the bolt will properly tighten up the mounting sleeve. WITH THAT DONE there should be very little up down movement.

Just how much "of that" movement is there? 1/8? 1/4? More?

 

[Duster_71]

YES (I see a problem) Post a photo please. At least one (both) of the brackets on the car "bend." This means that if the idler is properly built AND COMPLETE, the bolt will properly tighten up the mounting sleeve. WITH THAT DONE there should be very little up down movement.

Just how much "of that" movement is there? 1/8? 1/4? More?

I thought the play was about 1 in. but its more like a 1/8 to a 1/4 in. If you notice two of the bushings are missing and a top and bottom washer.

 

[TrailBeast]

This is a rare occasion where I have to disagree with Del.
There will be no issues putting the washers in to take out the slop and long as the washers go around the inner tube inside the arm, and are wide enough to support the shoulder of the arm pivot.
(This is how they did it brand new out of the box) and someone just failed to put them in.
The foam rings are just simple dust covers, and you can make your own if it comes down to that.

You can see by this picture that there is supposed to be a washer on each end, and it looks like the bracket in your picture has been squeezed closed a little from them not being in there.
I have fixed a crapload of these things with your exact problem.

This picture should give you a better idea of what is missing.

I should also add that you don't want the washers to pinch the arm, but just to take the extra play out of it with the retaining bolt and nut good and tight.
The bracket should pinch the inner metal tube, and not the washers or arm pivot.

 

[67Dart273]

This is a rare occasion where I have to disagree with Del.

We don't disagree, you simply misunderstood. The idler you pictured, there, is a "properly made" one.

The one I came across does NOT have the extended sleeve for the bolt to go through. On the one I have, If you start shimming it with washers, it starts to tighten up and cause friction in the what should be bearing in the K end, and worse, if you "don't" you have slop.

My concern, therefore, is that the OP "had" one of these 3rd world designs, LOL

(I'll try to dig this marvel of engineering out, a truely P.o.S if I ever saw one!!!)

 

[TrailBeast]

We don't disagree, you simply misunderstood. The idler you pictured, there, is a "properly made" one.

The one I came across does NOT have the extended sleeve for the bolt to go through. On the one I have, If you start shimming it with washers, it starts to tighten up and cause friction in the what should be bearing in the K end, and worse, if you "don't" you have slop.

My concern, therefore, is that the OP "had" one of these 3rd world designs, LOL

(I'll try to dig this marvel of engineering out, a truely P.o.S if I ever saw one!!!)

AH HA, so it was actually you that misunderstood
(If you were looking at a messed up design)

 

[Duster_71]

Well I added the washers to take up the slack and it worked. After driving it I could tell that some of the play was gone but there still remained some. I inspected again to find that there was in fact some wobble in the arm. I went ahead and ordered a new Moog from Rockauto and will put it on once it gets here. Everything else feels good and solid so hopefully this will tighten up the steering.