Part number 60-1537 (15") for $12.59 each
1974 Duster
- Thread starter gdonovan
- Start date
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Part number 60-1537 (15") for $12.59 each
Did you just get the blades w/ stainless or did it include the arms also?
Thanks,
Mike
Went to Ralph's cruise last night after detailing the car up, great turnout! Picked up a Feather Duster rear bumper to re-chrome and swap out, need to check with a few shops to find out what the current going rate is.
DionR
Well-Known Member
You get the aluminum bracket with the bumper, or just the skin? If you got the whole thing, nice score.
I put FD aluminum supports on my Duster years ago when I own a Feather Duster. Sure was a difference in weight.
I put FD aluminum supports on my Duster years ago when I own a Feather Duster. Sure was a difference in weight.
Got the whole thing =)
Joe Mc
No Car Like A MoPar!
Let us know what the present re-chrome rate is. Its been about 30 years since I had anything done and I'd prefer to "not" paint my bumpers due to cost . . .
a68postcar
Well-Known Member
sweet ride!
Need to tear down the engine in the next week or two- Either the fuel pump is failing or the Hughes fuel pump adapter is having issues. Some sort of metallic knocking noise can be heard when the car is warmed up at idle towards the right side. Really loud at the fuel pump when you use the stethoscope.
Will warm up the car then pull all the belts, run and check. At that point will then pull the fuel pump off and re-run to see if the noise goes away. Engine has been flawless for two years, I suspect the problem is in this area.
I have a new cam for the car with more moxy, so don't mind pulling everything apart, just bad timing. Might change over to electric pump at the same time, never really did like the adapter.
Will warm up the car then pull all the belts, run and check. At that point will then pull the fuel pump off and re-run to see if the noise goes away. Engine has been flawless for two years, I suspect the problem is in this area.
I have a new cam for the car with more moxy, so don't mind pulling everything apart, just bad timing. Might change over to electric pump at the same time, never really did like the adapter.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I had a noise from my fuel pump area, too. I'm running a magnum roller in my early block with hughes lifters and fuel pump eccentric adapter, so pretty similar to your setup. I replaced the fan clutch and alternater, before I figured out it was from the pump. Pulled mine and replaced it, which made no difference. In the end, what I found was that the pump arm was rubbing on the timing chain.
My theory is, with a flat tappet cam, the cam is being pushed back into the block, so no issues with clearance between the fuel pump arm and the timing chain. Replace the cam with a roller, and now the cam floats in and out of the block. If the clearances are too tight, the chain hits the arm and makes a racket. I had to smack the arm on my pump to clearance it, no noise since then.
No idea why it would show up later, though. Maybe it's a completely different problem.
My theory is, with a flat tappet cam, the cam is being pushed back into the block, so no issues with clearance between the fuel pump arm and the timing chain. Replace the cam with a roller, and now the cam floats in and out of the block. If the clearances are too tight, the chain hits the arm and makes a racket. I had to smack the arm on my pump to clearance it, no noise since then.
No idea why it would show up later, though. Maybe it's a completely different problem.
You called it. (see picture)
I pulled the belts off the car (no change) then fired it up with the pump out, the noise was then completely gone. I'm thinking that the reason the noise showed up after a year was due to slack building up in the timing chain as miles accrued on the engine. The slack in the chain lets the cam move back and forth further in the block striking the pump.
Back in the day I use to have either a Carter or Holley pump with a thin arm with a pad on the end, I suspect that extra clearance would make the problem go away. In my case I'm going to simply run an electric pump and change out the mild roller cam with something with a bit more bite while I'm at it.
BWHAHAHAHA! When handed lemons, make lemonade.
Joe Mc
No Car Like A MoPar!
Good find! Let us know what e-pump you choose and where you locate/connect up etc.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Glad you found the problem.
Am I remembering incorrectly, or are you going EFI later? Been a long weekend, probably getting mixed up.
Am I remembering incorrectly, or are you going EFI later? Been a long weekend, probably getting mixed up.
I would at some point, getting the Dart on the road and garage up will come before that though. Will get the overdrive before that point too.
I'm not a happy camper, see video below.
My advice to anyone considering to use one of these adapters is to DO NOT. The bolt was properly torqued on and there was a liberal dose of loctite red applied.
If this would have let go while I was out of state last month I would have been up sh*t creek.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxK8fQ_0M6Y"]Dodge truck magnum engine cam snout extension failure. - YouTube[/ame]
My advice to anyone considering to use one of these adapters is to DO NOT. The bolt was properly torqued on and there was a liberal dose of loctite red applied.
If this would have let go while I was out of state last month I would have been up sh*t creek.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxK8fQ_0M6Y"]Dodge truck magnum engine cam snout extension failure. - YouTube[/ame]
DionR
Well-Known Member
Hmm...well that's disturbing.
Any pictures of the parts after you removed them? What exactly failed?
dusterbd13
Well-Known Member
got any links to the pro-parts stuff? i tried a quick google search, but came up with nothing.
No idea, will take a picture after the car is running again. Just going to go back to the factory stuff (which I saved) Dying to hear the car running with a new cam.
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