ReevesRacing
Well-Known Member
What did you find out? I'm looking for some street legal skinnies that have a high speed rating.
1974 Duster
- Thread starter gdonovan
- Start date
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What did you find out? I'm looking for some street legal skinnies that have a high speed rating.
Been on the back burner while I have been changing jobs and cleaning up other messes.
Really don't like this new forum software, all the threads I had booked marked or favorited are gone (including my own threads) which is just a huge pain in the ***.
Work on the Duster starts again the end of the month or early next month once the CSX is done (maybe this weekend) and a new drywell is installed at the house.
Duster is slated to get 3.73 or 3.90 gears, the trans is getting pulled to improve the 2-3 shift (better clutches, bump in line pressure, new kick down lever, tweaks to valve body) new front brakes hoses and a new rear main seal if I'm feeling frisky (slight leak)
Changes that should be the car solid in the 12's and ready to go come fall track events. I might even do some carb swapping for entertainment.
Gary
Work on the Duster starts again the end of the month or early next month once the CSX is done (maybe this weekend) and a new drywell is installed at the house.
Duster is slated to get 3.73 or 3.90 gears, the trans is getting pulled to improve the 2-3 shift (better clutches, bump in line pressure, new kick down lever, tweaks to valve body) new front brakes hoses and a new rear main seal if I'm feeling frisky (slight leak)
Changes that should be the car solid in the 12's and ready to go come fall track events. I might even do some carb swapping for entertainment.
Gary
DionR
Well-Known Member
Weird. All of mine are still available, all 27 pages of them. But I see them under the "Watched Threads" link at the top of the page now. Don't remember how it was before, but it is different now.
Sweet!
Soon were going racing!
Finished some major work to the house the past week (took the week off from work to do no less!) and started digging into the GTX. Decided that I'm going racing this fall and I'm not just taking the Duster but the 'ol girl too which hasn't seen the track since 1996!
Just finished replacing all the fuel and coolant lines, changed the oil and filter, replaced the oil pump pressure spring with a lower rated one, serviced the transmission, checked the valve lash, wired up the nitrous system, serviced, purged and sealed all the related lines and touched up some general wiring.
The only thing left to do now is order some extra nitrous jets (Holley revised the jetting since purchasing NOS systems) a fresh set of seatbelts and mount the slicks on a set of steel rims. I'm not going to be running the weld wheels as I don't have long studs and have no plans on installing them.
This will be the final outing to the track for the GTX since I want to convert the car back to a 4-speed for the fun factor and reinstall the power steering I removed all the years ago. Since I have no desire to beat up the body further this will indeed be the last time once the 4-speed goes back in.
This week I hope to have the 44RH out of the Duster and break it down, I'll try and post some pictures! I have to order a ring and pinion too.. I think 3.90's are going in.
Gary
Finished some major work to the house the past week (took the week off from work to do no less!) and started digging into the GTX. Decided that I'm going racing this fall and I'm not just taking the Duster but the 'ol girl too which hasn't seen the track since 1996!
Just finished replacing all the fuel and coolant lines, changed the oil and filter, replaced the oil pump pressure spring with a lower rated one, serviced the transmission, checked the valve lash, wired up the nitrous system, serviced, purged and sealed all the related lines and touched up some general wiring.
The only thing left to do now is order some extra nitrous jets (Holley revised the jetting since purchasing NOS systems) a fresh set of seatbelts and mount the slicks on a set of steel rims. I'm not going to be running the weld wheels as I don't have long studs and have no plans on installing them.
This will be the final outing to the track for the GTX since I want to convert the car back to a 4-speed for the fun factor and reinstall the power steering I removed all the years ago. Since I have no desire to beat up the body further this will indeed be the last time once the 4-speed goes back in.
This week I hope to have the 44RH out of the Duster and break it down, I'll try and post some pictures! I have to order a ring and pinion too.. I think 3.90's are going in.
Gary
Kyle and I worked on getting the trans out last night, should have it on the bench tonight.
Changes-
Better clutches and steels in the main drum
Possible drilling of drum/venting
Change kickdown ratio from 4.2 to 3.2
Type F fluid
Inspect case for restrictors
Inspect valve body for flow path restrictions.
Changes-
Better clutches and steels in the main drum
Possible drilling of drum/venting
Change kickdown ratio from 4.2 to 3.2
Type F fluid
Inspect case for restrictors
Inspect valve body for flow path restrictions.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Was there an issue with the trans, or just time to upgrade it?
Morning racers!
Last year I took the Duster racing and after upgrading the headers and tweaking made an additional 70+ hp. This made the transmission angry and you can hear the 2-3 flare towards the end of the day.
13.08 pass:
[video:youtube]
The plan this month is to fortify the transmission and replace the 3.55's with 3.90's and the car should be flying into the 12's.
The transmission is a 904 based 42RH which has been upgraded with a billet servo piston, Trans-go shift kit, 4.2 kickdown lever and 44RE front drum which holds 5 clutches.
The transmission is sort of a science project as I wanted to run the "lighter duty" 42/44RH rather than the 727 based 518RH. If guys can make 904's live behind Hemi's then I should have no problem keeping a 42/44RH behind a fairly mild 5.9.
My train of though is to replace the following pieces to improve the 2-3 shift.
1) Replace wavy front drum snap ring with solid.
2) Replace clutches and steels with Alto Red/Kolene steels.
3) Change kickdown ratio back to 3.2 ratio from current 4.2
4) Possible drill drum to increase venting of fluid.
5) Increase line pressure slightly, currently at 105 psi. I can't go too much higher or it will cause the governor to hang up. I had this problem when it was at 130 psi.
6) Change fluid from ATF+4 to Type F
I'm going to take apart the valve body today to see what the orifice sizes are in the separator plate. I know per the Trans-Go instructions I made them larger but don't recall what size I opened them too. I'll post later today after I checked.
Thanks!
Gary
Last year I took the Duster racing and after upgrading the headers and tweaking made an additional 70+ hp. This made the transmission angry and you can hear the 2-3 flare towards the end of the day.
13.08 pass:
[video:youtube]
The plan this month is to fortify the transmission and replace the 3.55's with 3.90's and the car should be flying into the 12's.
The transmission is a 904 based 42RH which has been upgraded with a billet servo piston, Trans-go shift kit, 4.2 kickdown lever and 44RE front drum which holds 5 clutches.
The transmission is sort of a science project as I wanted to run the "lighter duty" 42/44RH rather than the 727 based 518RH. If guys can make 904's live behind Hemi's then I should have no problem keeping a 42/44RH behind a fairly mild 5.9.
My train of though is to replace the following pieces to improve the 2-3 shift.
1) Replace wavy front drum snap ring with solid.
2) Replace clutches and steels with Alto Red/Kolene steels.
3) Change kickdown ratio back to 3.2 ratio from current 4.2
4) Possible drill drum to increase venting of fluid.
5) Increase line pressure slightly, currently at 105 psi. I can't go too much higher or it will cause the governor to hang up. I had this problem when it was at 130 psi.
6) Change fluid from ATF+4 to Type F
I'm going to take apart the valve body today to see what the orifice sizes are in the separator plate. I know per the Trans-Go instructions I made them larger but don't recall what size I opened them too. I'll post later today after I checked.
Thanks!
Gary
racerhog
RacerHog likes his Mopars
Cool...
Rear main seal = done
Transmission is reassembled and going in today.
Front band with 4.2 lever = 2 turns out from 72 inch pounds per COPE. Was at 3 before.
Clearance on 6/6 red clutches and black k-steels .086 with flat .060 snap ring
Line pressure out 6 turns with aftermarket spring, will test pressure once fired up. Line pressure was 105 psi before, looking to set around 130. All check balls in place in valve body. Lock up bleed hole increased to .100
Gary
Transmission is reassembled and going in today.
Front band with 4.2 lever = 2 turns out from 72 inch pounds per COPE. Was at 3 before.
Clearance on 6/6 red clutches and black k-steels .086 with flat .060 snap ring
Line pressure out 6 turns with aftermarket spring, will test pressure once fired up. Line pressure was 105 psi before, looking to set around 130. All check balls in place in valve body. Lock up bleed hole increased to .100
Gary
After fighting with a few items this morning like a bent inspection plate and the line on the pressure gauge pissing a quart Type F all over the place the car is back on the road!
Line pressure at the test port is 80 psi at idle, 120 psi with the lever in the WOT position. Not the 130 psi I was aiming for but better. I think after road testing the car a few days to break in the clutches and steels I'll drop the pan and give the set screw a full turn.
Road test-
1-2 shift at WOT will bark the tires, 2-3 is "crisp," 4th gear was about the same and lockup was notably better and distinct. Before you had to sort of pay attention to know lockup was coming in but now its almost like a 5th gear. You can hear the engine change tone as the rpm drops a bit and feel the clutch engage.
I increased the bleed hole in the lockup cover from .075 to .100, Trans-go states you can go out to .125 but on some things I like going in baby steps. I'm not under WOT at lockup so there is no reason to have it hit harder.
Stay tuned...
Line pressure at the test port is 80 psi at idle, 120 psi with the lever in the WOT position. Not the 130 psi I was aiming for but better. I think after road testing the car a few days to break in the clutches and steels I'll drop the pan and give the set screw a full turn.
Road test-
1-2 shift at WOT will bark the tires, 2-3 is "crisp," 4th gear was about the same and lockup was notably better and distinct. Before you had to sort of pay attention to know lockup was coming in but now its almost like a 5th gear. You can hear the engine change tone as the rpm drops a bit and feel the clutch engage.
I increased the bleed hole in the lockup cover from .075 to .100, Trans-go states you can go out to .125 but on some things I like going in baby steps. I'm not under WOT at lockup so there is no reason to have it hit harder.
Stay tuned...
mopar65
Well-Known Member
I look forward to it. I will be installing a fuel injected 360 magnum and over drive trans into my 72 dart. So I want to build up the Trans to hold more HP
racerhog
RacerHog likes his Mopars
Just what happens when they get to sit.... You'll get it... Keep chipping at it.... 
Car doesn't sit that much!
Took apart the caliper, found nothing wrong and clean inside. Polished the piston with 2000 grit wet/dry just to be safe and reassembled. Changed out both front hoses and flushed the system.
Dropped the trans pan and gave the pressure regulator one full turn. This raised the line pressure to 85/125 psi. So it looks like with the Trans-Go regulator spring in place one turn is good for 5 psi increase. The service manual states with the factory spring, one turn is good for 1-2/3 psi (9kPa) increase. Please verify with a pressure gauge if you are going to tinker around.
My notes here are for the next guy..
Took apart the caliper, found nothing wrong and clean inside. Polished the piston with 2000 grit wet/dry just to be safe and reassembled. Changed out both front hoses and flushed the system.
Dropped the trans pan and gave the pressure regulator one full turn. This raised the line pressure to 85/125 psi. So it looks like with the Trans-Go regulator spring in place one turn is good for 5 psi increase. The service manual states with the factory spring, one turn is good for 1-2/3 psi (9kPa) increase. Please verify with a pressure gauge if you are going to tinker around.
My notes here are for the next guy..
Checking the car over close I found that the kickdown lever was not going back as far as it could with the throttle! There was a 3/8" gap due to the adjuster being all the way out. Rummaging around in my stash 'o parts I found a rod that was an 1" longer and swapped it out.
Much better!
Inspecting on the lift there was some fluid coming out of the bellhousing area, looks like the vent puked a little bit. Fluid level was over 5/16" of an inch over the full mark, DOH!
I'll have to drain some out, I was actually aiming for a touch over the "add" mark.
Aside from that, she's running great! Thinking about tossing in a set of 1.7 ratio roller rockers for a bit more power. =)
Gary
Much better!
Inspecting on the lift there was some fluid coming out of the bellhousing area, looks like the vent puked a little bit. Fluid level was over 5/16" of an inch over the full mark, DOH!
I'll have to drain some out, I was actually aiming for a touch over the "add" mark.
Aside from that, she's running great! Thinking about tossing in a set of 1.7 ratio roller rockers for a bit more power. =)
Gary
Still on the fence about rear gears- 3.73 or 3.90's?
I'm leaning towards the 3.73 gears for a number of reasons. Should be enough gear to run 12's, lower impact on highway and the car is already tire happy with the current gearset. Any more gear out back and the tires will go up at the slightest provocation.
I'm leaning towards the 3.73 gears for a number of reasons. Should be enough gear to run 12's, lower impact on highway and the car is already tire happy with the current gearset. Any more gear out back and the tires will go up at the slightest provocation.
So far pleased with the transmission performance, going to order the 3.73 gears this weekend. Had the car on the scope last night to check out the ignition pattern and will pull the top off the car to adjust the floats.
Did some carb tuning tonight, found something odd.
Secondaries .110 changed to .113
Primaries .107 changed to .110
Metering rod currently at .073 x .060
I had a thinner rod in before the jet change but changed back to the original rod, still seems a touch fat at light throttle. Found one metering rod spring different from the other which is really odd as they have been in there for years and years. Changed to two stockers and adjusted float drop to combat borderline stalling on hard brake.
Don't go by my jetting, car has heavy mods to the emulsion circuits which throw normal jetting charts off.
Secondaries .110 changed to .113
Primaries .107 changed to .110
Metering rod currently at .073 x .060
I had a thinner rod in before the jet change but changed back to the original rod, still seems a touch fat at light throttle. Found one metering rod spring different from the other which is really odd as they have been in there for years and years. Changed to two stockers and adjusted float drop to combat borderline stalling on hard brake.
Don't go by my jetting, car has heavy mods to the emulsion circuits which throw normal jetting charts off.
Decided to go big and skip a size from and went from 110 to 104. WOT is perfect with the mixture floating from 11.2-1 to 10.8-1. I expect the fueling requirement to go up when the headers are uncorked and the cooler fall air. Low speed cruise is slightly lean which I'll tune via the metering rods and spring rate. I should not have to take the top off the carb again.
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