i picked up what i though was just an 833 a body trans ,it was rusty,brought it home and checked some more. Front retainer is over 5" and date on side cover is 4/28/76 gears have single notch so its 309 first ratio, beleive its an iron over drive ,its rusty inside ,is it worth rebuilding? or just parts. anyone have any opinions on this. thanks as always
1976 833od iron worth it?
- Thread starter mikec
- Start date
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Well worth building.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Throw some gear oil in it and run it. Lather, rinse, repeat.
Filled with auto trans fluid to soak, trans doesn't turn , do you disassemble and clean gears with a sand blast with fine media, or is there a better way. This would be first trans , have Chrysler book but not OD model in book.
pishta
I know I'm right....
how about a wire wheel? seems media would get everywhere.
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Let it soak for awhile........:happy1:
Soak everything in Evaporust.
j par
Well-hung Member
you might as well start tearing it apart now. you have nothing to lose for sure and all the knowledge in the world to gain about the transmission. Let's first see if the gears and stuff are savable. And then get ready for the inevitable rebuild kit and any other parts that need to be replaced. I hope you didn't pay more than a hundred or at the most $150 for this unit but it does seem that you got the shifter mechanism and the shifter itself so that could be worth something.
acpat
Well-Known Member
ouch looks like a parts trans. never know like j par stated until it is apart. good luck
That definitely is worse as I have seen on an A833. I have a 76 OD I rebuilt completely. I put all new synchro hubs, sliders, brass, locks, wires, bearings, etc. Shifts awesome. put it behind a strong 360 with 3:23 gearing and tall 15 inch wheels. I love it. I would rebuild it. I gave 150 for mine.
I paid $60.00 for it. Figured the cases were worth it. Think i'll try the. Evaporust after it soaks for a week or two alot of the rust seems to wipe off, there is a short spring in bottom of case loose so i will have to take apart, thanks for all the suggestions, will be fun.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Ima guessing it came to you without oil and an open cover?
If there is any trace in there of gear-oil, then there is a good chance that the cluster and pin may be ok. In which case, there is also a good chance it is salvageable. Not cheap, mind you, but at your buy-in, you should still come out ok.
I'm not keen on the ods behind performance engines anymore, but on low-rpm engines, they are a reasonable option.
The not turning, if the cluster is ok, is very likely a bearing, or both, piled up with rust.
If it was mine, I would pull it apart. On od boxes the cluster pin has to be popped out,towards the rear, as soon as the extension housing is unbolted.Just rotate the housing somewhere near a half a turn, so the pin can get by. That front "frostplug" will fall out after you bop it a time or two with a big punch.They can be reused if you get lucky.
Once the pin is out and the cluster is dropped into the bottom, the rest of the rebuild is the same as non-od boxes.
As for the rust, I have used both methods in the past, that is; wire wheeling, and media blasting. The clutch cones must be polished up on a lathe, with a quick touch of 120 cloth-tape. This will get the brass to bite again. All the bearing surfaces can similarly be touched up.All the C.I. parts can be sand-blasted, just be sure to clean out all the threaded holes. The extension housing needs special scrutiny. There is a little metal baffle in there under the vent that will need to come out for blasting, as well as the vent itself, as it is an excellent sand magnet. Just under that is an oil pocket, and oil-return slot. This area also traps sand.
After the blasting, I make a trip to the car-wash.
With new bearings, a gasket/seal kit, a small parts kit, and a rear bushing, you will be into it for less than $300. With any luck the synchronizers will be good, and you will have a fine tranny.
Now here's a nugget; treat the o/d gear nicely. That is the weakest piece in the box. I have ripped the teeth of two of them. One, with my HO367, and not even at full power. She's never been dyno'd, but similar builds pull about 440ftlbs at about 4400. And the 2nd with my 73-LC318; with nothing more than headers and a TQ-4bbl.
So, now, Good luck, and we are here to help.
If there is any trace in there of gear-oil, then there is a good chance that the cluster and pin may be ok. In which case, there is also a good chance it is salvageable. Not cheap, mind you, but at your buy-in, you should still come out ok.
I'm not keen on the ods behind performance engines anymore, but on low-rpm engines, they are a reasonable option.
The not turning, if the cluster is ok, is very likely a bearing, or both, piled up with rust.
If it was mine, I would pull it apart. On od boxes the cluster pin has to be popped out,towards the rear, as soon as the extension housing is unbolted.Just rotate the housing somewhere near a half a turn, so the pin can get by. That front "frostplug" will fall out after you bop it a time or two with a big punch.They can be reused if you get lucky.
Once the pin is out and the cluster is dropped into the bottom, the rest of the rebuild is the same as non-od boxes.
As for the rust, I have used both methods in the past, that is; wire wheeling, and media blasting. The clutch cones must be polished up on a lathe, with a quick touch of 120 cloth-tape. This will get the brass to bite again. All the bearing surfaces can similarly be touched up.All the C.I. parts can be sand-blasted, just be sure to clean out all the threaded holes. The extension housing needs special scrutiny. There is a little metal baffle in there under the vent that will need to come out for blasting, as well as the vent itself, as it is an excellent sand magnet. Just under that is an oil pocket, and oil-return slot. This area also traps sand.
After the blasting, I make a trip to the car-wash.
With new bearings, a gasket/seal kit, a small parts kit, and a rear bushing, you will be into it for less than $300. With any luck the synchronizers will be good, and you will have a fine tranny.
Now here's a nugget; treat the o/d gear nicely. That is the weakest piece in the box. I have ripped the teeth of two of them. One, with my HO367, and not even at full power. She's never been dyno'd, but similar builds pull about 440ftlbs at about 4400. And the 2nd with my 73-LC318; with nothing more than headers and a TQ-4bbl.
So, now, Good luck, and we are here to help.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
I am guessint the idler shaft bearings are dry, I would also let it soak, before disassembly. It seems like you would have to free it up to disassemble.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
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- 24,952
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Well it's a month now,
How are things coming along?
How are things coming along?
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